2014 Small Vines Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, TBH Vineyard. More of a really dark garnet than violet, heavy into the rims, pretty surface shine. The nose shows good punch, cranberry, raspberry, apple fruit scents, cola bean and stone, some residual oak cream has yet to knit in. Medium-bodied, clean and fresh even as it does a good job of staining the entire palate. Not especially acidic nor tannic but holds its shape well and never too sweet. The red fruits shade bluer here. Sandy, stony, slim enough that “Sonoma Coast” seems right versus, say, RRV or Carneros. But not like it screams of “place.” Citrus up a few notches at the finish. Same situation with the oak, not fully absorbed yet. Another of the many, many Californian wines which puzzle me. Very well made, tasty, but in no way distinctive enough to warrant a $80 price tag.
2021 Birichino Zinfandel, Central Coast, “Saint Georges Old Vines – Vignes Centenaires.” Violet to a deeply glowing ruby-magenta, dark yet cleanliness visible. Nose of wood and grill smoke, light vanillin cream, fresh if taut blueberry, blackberry scents, brush of white citrus and old potpourri, fairly sedate overall. Medium-bodied shading light, as a result the tannin and acidity really jump out at you. The tanginess favors elevated citrus presence. The berry fruit red to blue and sour. Dry meadow brush and twigs, comes across with a certain “mountain” character. Would say it gives you a good twist at the end but it was already doing that. I can sip it well enough but it was designed as a food wine. (Composite Cork: Diam10)
2021 Lagier Meredith Mondeuse, Napa Valley, Mount Veeder. Extremely dark purple, thin dark magenta rims, the very attractive surface shine gives it life. Blunt force to the nose, concentrated plum, black currant scents, gurgling of leather and poor earth, zero sense of movement in the nostrils, all but impenetrable. Full-bodied, the same black fruits dominant by default, no lack of sweet ripeness. Tannin comes on strong, suggesting medium term aging to soften. Leather, tobacco ash, crushed stone, little jolt of citrus at the finish. Big, big wine, letting it open didn’t budge it. Fruit should be there when the tannin resolves but unsure what development you’d get for waiting.
2022 Ridge Grenache Blanc, Paso Robles. Decent shine to the yellow straw color, however, looks more blocklike than layered, not crystal clear. Spicy nose, Choward’s violet candy, orange sherbet, label says “oak from barrel aging” as well as “aged on the lees for six months” and I believe it, vaguer pear to apple scents. Medium to full-bodied, the spiciness first noticed again. Acidity perceived as acceptable, on the blunt side. Vanillin to whipped cream notes abound. Mixed citrus stronger here. Lowkey orchard fruits. Warming broadened it but didn’t alter the general flavor profile. Has adequate flavor but nothing close to a refreshingness. 86% Grenache Blanc, 14% Picpoul. Grapes sourced 64% Adelaida Vineyard, 24% Fossil Creek Vineyard, 15% Halter Ranch Vineyard.
2016 Linden Petit Verdot, Virginia (Fauquier County). Might expect the purple core to be darker, not fully opaque and somewhat fuzzy, the rims flushed a scarlet red. The nose shows more textural power than array of aromas, blueberry to blackberry fruit, the oak cream taking its time to recede, mildly stony and grassy, just not much going on. Medium-bodied, quite firm and tannic, probably could go a good awhile longer just on that. Albeit not sure what would change. Chewy dark fruits, hint of citrus. Clean and without more than a whisper of herbaceousness. The old “sock to the jaw” type of wine. Air time didn’t budge it. Good drinkability, especially with a fatty steak. Demands attention and needs a pairing of the same mindset. 94% Petit Verdot, 3% Carménère, 3% Merlot. Grapes sourced from Hardscrabble, Boisseau, Avenius Vineyards. (Composite Cork: Diam10)
2020 Clos du Gravillas Carignan, Languedoc, Hérault Côtes du Brian, “Lo Vièlh Carignan de 100 ans.” Glowing purple core crosses into opacity, dense red magenta rims. The nose shows a dusty earthiness, stone and to a lesser degree cooking spice and blueberry fruit, overall tends towards muteness. Medium-bodied with a plush, velvety mouth feel. The blueberry, blackberry fruit very nice, juicy unto sweet and last into the finish. Ginger spice, anise, orange peel, more delineation among the parts. Tannin level suits the whole, acidity a supplement, particularly at the end. Energetic even as it has that old vines “naturally relaxed concentration.” Consistent start to finish and first to last glass. Nothing stands out in a “wow” way but I was eager for the next sip, my kind of wine.
2022 Bernard Baudry Cabernet Franc, Loire, Chinon, Les Granges. Glowing ruby-violet, you can hear it humming in the glass, nice polish with rims as dense as the core. No lack of flatulence and merde to the nose upon opening, takes awhile but settles down into dusty earth and grass, tobacco, minimal bell pepper, blackberry, currant scents, overall more compact than primary. Medium-bodied, right off shows a good tannic structure and some thrust which creates better direction when the red currant, blackberry, plum fruit ensues. Minerally and dusty, expect to chew on a tumbleweed. The bell pepper more evident here. Tobacco, peppercorns. Keep coming back to the structure, strong yet doesn’t make it feel underfruited. Like this a notch or two better than 2021 or 2020. (Composite Cork)
2021 Delrieu-Ducleux Loire, Vin de France, “Le Jeau.” Mostly garnet red with a mild deepening to violet in the core, clean with great shine. Nose of fresh run berry juice, mineral dust, some dried grassiness, leather, nothing overtly “green” about it, unassuming. Light-bodied, nicely acidic and tangy through the mouth entry. Raspberry, strawberry, blackberry flavors, shows darker towards the finish, maybe the weight of the Cab Franc punching through. Citrusy bite, lemon to naval orange. Clean on the whole, no funk in the trunk. Just a very pleasant, easy drinking wine for under $20. Which works for me. 60% Grolleau, 40% Cabernet Franc. (Composite Cork: Diam5)
1996 Château Lafon-Rochet Bordeaux, Saint-Estèphe. Good vigor to the purple core given its age, then it is bricking but plenty of color and doesn’t in any way get washed out at the rims. The nose has a good bit of damp forest floor, mushroom to it, balanced by a kindling wood smokiness, gravel, cedar, tea leaf, the black fruit scents have lost some grip but that’s kind of the point in aging it. Medium-bodied, remains tannic but it’s not fierce nor standing in the way of the varied elements. Here the blackberry, blackcurrant fruit fares much better than the nose. Holds onto the forest, earth angle. Spicier and with the usual cedar, graphite, gravel, tobacco ash accents. This was a “pop and pour” experience and didn’t seem to suffer for it. Time to drink up but to my taste drinking well. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc.
2018 Marie Berenice Provence, Bandol. The purple in the core diminished by a vivid scarlet red which pops out of the glass, perfectly clean and fetching. The nose is semi-mute, heavy black currant to plum scents, suggestion of typical wet wool, in turn whisper of white grapefruit, no problem texturally filling your nostrils, just with what? Full-bodied, erect and close to ponderous. The tannin blankets everything, close to immobile. That noted, there’s ample fruit (adding blueberry), kinda grinds to a halt short of the finish line. Clove, cumin spice. Citrus tickle near the end. A mouthful which deserves something like cassoulet. Assessing young Bandol can be a fool’s errand. To me this needs 5-8 years before revisiting. 90% Mourvèdre, 10% Grenache.
NV Michèle Capdepon Languedoc, Crémant de Limoux, “Révélation Brut.” Any mousse disappears quickly after the pour, Sparkly golden color, effervescence fills the glass, bright and glossy. Sort of angular nose, never quite get a handle on it, steady apple, pear, apricot fruit scents, very lightly honeyed, same for any chalk element, at least it’s clean and without anything off. Medium-bodied, consistent pétillance, acidity is quite nice and appropriate for a “Brut” level. More appley here, develops a cellar aged aspect. Followed on again mainly by lemon peel chalk and honey. Not getting anything close to yeasty. While nowhere near complex it possesses a fresh directness for casual accompaniment with appetizers or good old back deck sipping. 50% Chardonnay, 40% Chenin Blanc, 10% Pinot Noir.
2021 Fabien Jouves Malbec, Southwest France, Cahors, “Les Escures.” While not excessively dark the ruby-violet coloration is deeply saturated and looks like it would stain a black tablecloth. Peanut shells and fart welcome you to the nose, swirl, swirl, swirl until the black fruits get released, odd touch of caramel, some stony earth, overall lacks richness and thus staying power in the nostrils. Light to medium-bodied, sheds weight steadily across the palate. Not overly tannic while darn dry on the whole. The gears of the black currant, blackberry fruit don’t catch. Nicely leathery. It purports to be 100% Malbec and to me could benefit by being cut with some Tannat. In any event, too weak per se to be what I want in a Cahors wine.
2022 Peter Lauer Riesling, Mosel, Ayler Kupp Kabinett No. 8 AP #8. Very pale white-yellow straw color, a few shades darker than water, fabulous luster so there’s ample glass presence. Nose of wet slate and gravel, brawny shock of diesel fumes adds to its impressive power, eventually releases some florality as well as apricot, pear scents, can see this getting quite tertiary with time. Medium-bodied, holds its weight right through to the finish, extending it well. The acidity strong, pulling back from becoming too biting. At the same time it creates a drying impression on the palate. The diesel element big here too, however, you get more cherry, peach, pear fruit, likely because the tongue can perceive the sweetness. A lot more citrus here too. Something about it lacks harmony like you are looking at bowls full of top notch meal ingredients but no one has yet mixed them together.
2021 Cantina del Lupo Grignolino, Piedmont, Piemonte, “Grignole.” Clean and shiny, a sort of cough syrup red that gets faded at the rims. Dusty, sandy nose, parched dirt, the candied cherry to strawberry scents lack lift, muted florality, not getting much else. Light-body overshadowed by stern tannin. That red fruit and florality fare better in the mouth, at least until the mid-palate. Mixes in white citrus for added zip. But back to chewiness through the finish. In no way taciturn nor grumpy, yet it lacks some of the joyous verve the grape can present. Definitely needs food. (Screwcap)
2022 Luis Pato 100% Maria Gomes grape, Portugal, Bairrada. Clear to water level clarity, the lightest of yellow-brown straw shades, rims empty, nice shine. There’s a hard to distinguish fruitiness to the nose, plenty of semi-dewy floral notes, decent citrus pine, maybe some bubblegum, good overall erectness with some lift. In the mouth it’s light-bodied plus with a very stiffening acidic spine. Peach, apple, strawberry flavors, again a bit all over the place. Lemon to grapefruit predominates here. That bubblegum thing persists. It’s not refreshing in a “peaceful, easy feeling” sort of way, more like “you will be refreshed or the floggings will continue.” Nice lingering on the finish. Certainly no lack of verve and if you are ready for the acidity can be sipped on its own as well as accompany food. I like it. (Composite Cork)
2017 SidĂłnio de Sousa Baga, Portugal, Bairrada. Purple to scarlet, moderate darkness, fine clarity of liquid, flush rims. The nose has a rugged leather and spice side as well as a rich plum, blackberry fruit side, odd plastic note, no heat but the unevenness is something I find in many Portuguese wines. Medium-bodied, smoother and somewhat sappy, this definitely favors the juicy fruit flavors. Enough tannin to give it credit for being there. Has a meaty, blood iron sort of thing in addition to more regular leather notes. Tangy and spicy finish. Appreciate the 13.0% alcohol as well as general cleanliness. Not quite sure what makes this a $16.99 wine versus the plethora of $9.99 Portuguese reds.