2019 Bedrock Zinfandel California “A Buffalo in Montana (or Ode to Joel Zinfandel)”. The dark purple core not quite opaque, can see it turns blacker with age, the rims a wide garnet to scarlet, overall looks “dense.” Maybe looking at the wine got that word in my head because the nose seems dense too, a pleasing crush of mixed berries and menthol and vanilla notes, lighter mocha crisp, swirl as I may not getting much lift out of it, but there is a cleansing sensation which refreshes some. Full-bodied, the first impression is of tannin, like this is dry and tautly structured. Not to fault the well-layered berry, cherry, currant fruit, of which there is an abundance. Familiar menthol, creamy oak to grill smoke flavors. Finish is like hitting a brick wall. This needs 10-15 years and I don’t know that I really need Zinfandels of that stripe. But if I ever do buy another bottle it will go straight to the cellar.
2001 Lagier Meredith Syrah Mount Veeder. Somewhat flat opaque purple core, more life in the brick to rust red rims. Nose shows a little uneven funkiness at first but blows off readily enough, compact currant, plum, blackberry fruit scents with a wrapping of grill smoke, cocoa and pressed flowers to eucalyptus, the fruit driving things forward and at this point I’m not looking for further development, if anything a bottle last year smelled more advanced. Full-bodied, super smooth and fluid, tannin polished into non-existence. Good sour tang to the fruit, here shading more to blue and red fruits. Lavender, potpourri, a dry sort of concentration. Whiff of citrus. More pleasant than interesting, based on this bottle I’d consider on the back end of its plateau.
1997 Ridge Sonoma County Geyserville. Fourth go with this, first since late 2011. Reddish black core, hard pressed to find any purple, energetic sunset red rims with maybe a touch of yellow. The nose betrays some alcohol and the fruit scents have headed into prune, raisin territory with echoes of blackberry, all accompanied by cedar, genoa salami, menthol, and Indian mukhwas, to my schnozz all the oak knit in. Medium-bodied and feeling like it has lost some weight, remains sweet, coasted in molasses and honey. The fruit fresher here, blackberry, blueberry, plum but not without its dried fruit moments. Lavender, eucalyptus, cedar, clove, not showing much of the dill weed of its youth. Not registering much by way of tannin, anchored by the fruit. Still drinking well, fully matured and then some, wouldn’t want to push it further but would not be surprised if it did hold up. 74% Zinfandel, 15% Carignane, 10% Petite Sirah, 1% Mataro.
2021 Domaine du Clos du Fief (Michel et Sylvain Tête) Juliénas “Tradition”. Squeaky clean violet to ruby-magenta, fully transparent yet saturation is evident, looks like a barrel sample. The nose has excellent lift, more of a jabber than a puncher, steady flurry of white grapefruit, crushed stone, charcuterie, tobacco ash, and lavender, the blue to red berry scents are not insubstantial but lost in the swirl. Light-bodied with sharp edged acidity and tannin, thankfully moves at too quick a pace to come off as angular. Here the white grapefruit is simply explosive and at times makes it hard to notice anything else, wow. The stone and ash do try and the raspberry, blueberry, blackberry fruit ups its game as well. Tightly puckering finish. Has the structure to age and arguably could use a few more months to settle down in bottle. Superlative all around and a great value to boot.
2020 Domaine Etienne Becheras (Le Prieuré d’Arras) Crozes-Hermitage. Glowing violet to garnet in hue, dark and clear, could have poured myself a glass of Welch’s grape juice. Thick plum and cassis fruit doused with a floral dew, weaves in cocoa and leather, echo of grilled meat fat, fairly monochrome but nothing offensive. Medium to full-bodied, round and pliant in spite of the rugged tannin. Violets, ginger root pretty it up some, Moderate doses of earth and minerals. The black to blue fruits more chewy than juicy, fully ripe. Finish is a bit square, lingering note of iodine, dried blood. Nothing special but a good value at $22. This producer seems to tend towards a “backwards” style of winemaking which I appreciate but isn’t geared towards casual consumption. Unsure how many more bottles I want to wrestle with.
2015 Mas Champart Languedoc Saint-Chinian “Causse du Bousquet”. Moderately saturated and glowing purple core, unblemished and close to transparent, thin crimson red rims. While the nose has plenty of body it’s taut with few wasted motions, laser beams of plum, dark berry fruit, beef jerky, white grapefruit, campfire smoke, and violets, no real lift just a brisk forward motion through your nostrils. Medium-bodied, slow fluidity as the formidable tannin puts the brakes on things. The mixed black fruits makes a nice initial impression and once you swallow the sensation is of increasing dryness. That white grapefruit really steps it up here. Leather, damp minerally earth, beef blood. Not as floral as I expected. Glues itself to your mouth pores to extend the finish. Arguably “vin de garde” style. 74% Syrah, 10% Carignan, 6% Grenache, 6% Mourvèdre, 4% Cinsault.
2021 Falkenstein Riesling Krettnacher Euchariusberg Kabinett AP #12. White-green straw color, transparently glossy, given its light hue still looks layered. Sweetly ripe nose of cherry, pear, apricot to pineapple fruit, blend of lemon and lime, undercurrent and saline and chalk but right now more or less submerged in the fruit, not much lift to it. Close to full-bodied, gets its belt cinched tightly by the acidity, more pulsating than drying. The chalk, seashell to dusty mineral elements more aggressive here against the fruit cocktail component. Citrus tang extends the finish. More than the flavor array what sets it apart is the high energy level, keeps whizzing around. Not sure I’d want to sacrifice that for something different down the road. Plus not entirely convinced there is sufficient residual sugar on which to build mature complexity.
2001 August Kesseler Riesling Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Spätlese Goldkap AP #3. Matured gold to very light amber color, squeaky clean with a buffed up shine, dances in the glass. Nose comes of as creamy at first, vanilla, honey and mint, over time orange marmalade comes to the fore, the fruit scents retain a tropical edge, pineapple, guava, kiwi with a touch of apricot, while there’s not a lot of lift it doesn’t seem sluggish or heavy. Medium to full-bodied, at first it seemed a little acid deficient but the acidity curiously became more pronounced as it warmed. The orange, lime citrus plays a major role framing it. That tropical fruit brings needed sourness, the apricot, peach flavors ascend and bring a sense of ripeness. Vanilla fudge, honey, tea leaf, and herbs round it. Good energy, nothing here suggests an old wine, more so one slowly maturing. But I don’t really see where further aging is going to result in an appreciably different/better wine.
2014 Colli di Catone Malvasia del Lazio “Colle Gaio”. Shows a deepened gold color not yet close to amber, consistent into the rims, average shine, solid in appearance. First thing noticed in the nose is rubbing alcohol or witch hazel, odd given the 12.5% ABV, then gets very nutty with notes of marzipan, smoke, spiced orange peel, and Indian spices, has to warm up before you get the apricot, peach fruit scents consistently, moments of green apple too, close to sherried as it warms, I was expecting something off-center and got it. In the mouth it’s full-bodied, dry to the point of tackiness, notes of flor and yeast dominate the attack. You don’t get the raw alcohol found in the nose yet there is something “boozy” about it. The fruit is more forward with a vaguely poached aspect. Suggestion of florality and licorice more than full delivery. That nuttiness pops up through the finish. Can’t say I am eager to buy another bottle but would be happy to taste it on someone else’s dime. A unique wine for the adventurous wine geek.
2019 Terre Nere Etna Rosso “Calderara Sottana Vecchie Vigna”. Reddish clay hue lightens the purple core into the rims, while there’s clarity on the whole it tends towards dullness. Very ripe but not overripe plum, cherry, blackberry scents framed by orange peel and ginger, smattering of earth but no real “volcanic” aspect, fullness tends to ground it, minimal lift. Full-bodied, the attack is slathered in creamy oak and a hint of dill. More smoky and leathery here but centerstage still belongs to the fully ripened black fruits. Tannin level is pretty high and at moments smack of greenness. But the fruit does a good job of papering over that. It’s tasty and pleasing enough, I’d give it 3-5 years for the tannin to knit in, don’t think the fruit will fade in that timeframe, if anything it might be turning pruney. Unspecified percentages of Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio.
2021 Trediberri Langhe Nebbiolo. The core achieves violet status but on the main it’s a fat magenta hue, clear with full rims. Floral nose with orange zest and tea leaf notes to lift it further, drips with raspberry, blackberry, cherry fruit, strikes me as neutral in terms of oak, big and brassy and fruit driven. Medium-bodied with an expansive quality which gives it extra palate coverage. Here too the fruit is king and I’d aver that it wouldn’t please that many traditionalists. That said, there’s an unvarnished exuberance which I appreciate. Lavender, orange peel, something close to mentholated. Hint of leather at best, no earthiness. Tannin a minimal presence but not absent. Easy drinking without being simple. (Composite Cork)
2021 Trousse-Chemise Pinot Noir Willamette Valley. The coloration is mostly consistent core to rims, a garnet to violet hue, nicely vivid while also transparent. The nose is neutral, touch of stone, ash and white citrus before settling into brisk raspberry, cranberry, blueberry scents, has body in the nostrils if compact and succinct. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied with a density which makes it come off as semi-inert. Decent enough acidity, not especially fresh. The fruit is sour and layered both, mildly puckering, lasts well into the finish. Noticeable citrus element, any florality more evanescent. Notes of honey or molasses but nothing that screams excess oak, might be unoaked for all I know. Credible entry level bottling, I personally find the sourness distracting. (Composite Cork: Vinc)
2020 Joostenberg Paarl, South Africa “Family Blend”. Simple purple to ruby color, trim and clean, if I didn’t know better I’d call it a red wine. Sappy nose with a layer of molasses laid on the plum, currant, cherry fruit scents, dewy florality, has the expected smoky earthiness as well, pleasant enough. Light-bodied, has an aggressive attack which almost feels fizzy in its turbulence. But there’s nothing off about the bottle, likewise lots of pucker, the sourness shaves some flesh off the same currant, plum, berry fruit. Feels more sweetened than ripe. note of cocoa or mocha yet not getting any overt oak, wouldn’t be surprised were it unoaked. That earthiness spreads throughout the finish. Decent cheap, entry level bottle. 85% Syrah, 12% Mourvèdre, 3% Touriga Nacional. (Composite Cork: Diam)
