On the wine renaissance happening in Abruzzo at the moment: "…the most exciting wines that I’m finding today are instead from the hilly interior of Abruzzo…It’s here that we are witnessing a quality revolution that is unparalleled by any other location in the region. It’s also here that new and young producers are struggling to prove the worth of their terroir, while looking up to the likes of Francesco Valentini, Cristiana Tiberio and Fausto Albanesi of Torre dei Beati for inspiration. - Vinous Media, Eric Guido October 06, 2022
Cocciapazza’ 2020 93+VM
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
$34.99 SALE US low
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*compare at $40+
$41.99 reg
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93+ pts Vinous Media
Darkly floral, the 2020 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Cocciapazza smolders up with a bouquet of violets and lavender complementing crushed blackberries and hints of blood orange. This is like pure velvet on the palate, elegant and refined with polished red and blue fruits carried across a core of vibrant acidity. Red plums and citrus linger through the finish. Grippy tannins mingle with a caking of saline minerality. While quite seductive, this classy rendition of Cocciapazza demands cellaring.
Tasting Note: I revisited this wine a couple weeks ago and it has relented some since my first spin late last year with it. It still reminds me of a more structured 2019. Brooding in color, nose, and palate. Youthful and dense, but not heavy. This needs air, decant for a few hours (2-4 or more). A deep ruby red core with vibrant edges. The nose is pronounced, with fresh and lively cherry, blackberry, and black raspberry, spiked with savory herbs and spices, and a hint of balsamic and purple flowers that add further lift to accentuate the aromas. Med+ to full bodied on the palate, med+ youthful tannins, with a lot of flavor density and freshness from the perfectly integrated acidity. This will require some patience to hit the perfect spot, but you can get into one now with a long decant. A long finish that tapers off longer in flavor than structure (a good thing). Buy a few, drink one now and save the others for the cellar! While the score and tasting note speaks for itself, I am more of a 93-95 points on this wine.
Varietal: 100% Montelpuciano
Vineyard: Planted 1972, “Pergola Abruzzese” training
Altitude: 250 meters a.s.l.
Soil Composition: Clay-limestone
Winemaking: Fermentation in steel tanks, then 20 months in French oak barriques,1/3 new, 1/3 one year old, 1/3 2 years old
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About Fausto Albanesi
"Fausto Albanesi of Torre dei Beati did a fantastic job creating wines of impeccable balance and power from the warm and dry 2020 vintage. His two single-vineyard expressions of Montepulciano, the mineral and powerful Cocciapazza and the more elegant Mazzamurello, are tremendous standouts in this vintage. I had the opportunity to taste several back vintages with Albanesi. These wines age beautifully over time, especially the Cocciapazza, which was expertly demonstrated by the 2001, also the first vintage, as well as the cool-toned 2009. As for the Mazzomorello, I checked in on the 2008, which showed beautifully and honestly surprised me with its energy and finesse. Overall, the approach at Torre dei Beati is progressive, not international nor traditional, but with a focus on allowing each variety to express itself through low yields, picking at optimal ripeness, and, in the case of the two Montepulciano “Selections”, Cocciapazza and Mazzamurello, a balanced use of new oak.
" - Vinous Media, Aug 2023
Having tasted both the 2019 (over a few days) and the 2020 recently, I agree that the aging potential of the Cocciapazza is tremendous. Hinting at greatness now, these need some time to unwind and broaden their tightly coiled layers. This is one of the best wines for the cellar we carry and a few should be in every collector’s cellar. The reds remind me of their neighbor, Valentini, as these are more structured, deeper than the Tiberio wines that to me strike a different, more Burgundian expression. They are both great and as far as wines you can get your hands on these 2 are the best from the region by a lot!
Torre dei Beati is emerging as one of the top names in Abruzzo. They have been at this a while (since 1972) and only over the last 10 years as more light has been cast on the region, have their wines come to people’s attention thanks to people like our importer friend that brings these in and the critics like Eric championing Fausto’s efforts. Torre dei Beatti’s neighbor is the world-famous (in geeky wine circles) Eduardo Valentini (link). Together with Emidio Pepe and Tiberio, these four producers are the leaders of the region in fame and quality historically (and currently). Valentini and Pepe are the old guards and the most famous, the prices they command are 5-10 times higher ($200-400) than the most expensive Beati wine.
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