My wife and I are in Paris and thinking of a day trip to Reims or Epernay by train. My wife loves champagne and has a fairly good palate, and she would like to really see how champagne is made. I would do one of the Big House tours like Moët, but was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for anything more intimate that would be better (on short notice).
Thanks!
Noah
It’s not more intimate, but I really really enjoyed the Ruinart tour.
I also really enjoyed my visit at Philipponnat, and you can hike around Clos de Goisses afterward, which is great. The Vilmart folks were really friendly and welcoming too.
I’m sure others will chime in with even better suggestions.
Noah, if you search you will find my own thread on this subject; there were a ton of great recommendations. Taittinger has a great tour I am told.
As it turns out, we made reservations for lunch at Les Crayeres; it took nearly 3 hours and was one of the most magnificent culinary experiences of my life. MUCH better than going on the tour which we canceled in order to do the meal justice. I am usually not a huge fan of these temples of gastronomy, but the meal was absolutely breathtaking, beginning to end (including the wines; the list had HUNDREDS of champagnes. We ultimately let the somm pick a few for us because the list was too daunting).
After the meal we went to the http://lescavesduforum.com/champagnes/ – a wine shop like no other. Three stories under ground, chalk cellar from the 17th century with scores and scores of champagnes I had never seen or heard of.
Then, still buzzed from the meal, we went to the cathedral and just drank it all in
Maybe our best day in France.
Here is Neal’s thread: Day tripping to Champagne - Travel, Wine Tourism, and Restaurants Forum - WineBerserkers
Having visited both, I would recommend Reims over Epernay for a day trip by train - but if you do go to Epernay, be sure to visit Champagne Alfred Gratien. http://www.alfredgratien.com/web/uk_index.php
they aren’t going to move that cathedral to Epernay for you GO to Reims
I agree with esteemed counselors Mollen and Fleming. Reims for a day trip.
Neal’s thread about lunch at Les Crayeres: Dejeuner a les Crayeres: une reve (edit: recapping trip) - Travel, Wine Tourism, and Restaurants Forum - WineBerserkers
The thread that persuaded Neal to lunch at Les Crayeres: Reims (Champagne), France: Les Crayeres or L'Assiette Champenoise? - Travel, Wine Tourism, and Restaurants Forum - WineBerserkers
Just for producer visits, Epernay.
For anything else, Reims.
We did the Moet tour, just so we could check a “big house” off our list. If I could take back that hour and a half, I probably would. Imaging some big, long caves, with lots of wine. A bit dark and damp, lots of bottle stacked up in this direction, and that direction, and over there, and down that other wing of the cave. There’s your tour 
Then you’ll stop to taste a few glasses of Champagne, pay a bunch more if you want to taste the good stuff (which you’ll do, because, hey, you’re not coming back here any time soon, what’s a few more bucks). Then you’ll come out in a big room with lots of fancy displays, great lighting, snazzy clothes, bottles of champagne stacked up, and prices that are higher than back home. Skip it.
Reims cathedral is pretty nice, though if you’ve seen a few cathedrals, it’s kind of like those BTW, in Paris don’t miss the Sainte Chapelle Cathedral, just a couple blocks away from Notre Dame, and pretty much beats the crap out of every other cathedral in the world. Will have a long wait for tickets and entry, but worth it.
If you end up in Reims, don’t miss the very nice wine shop Caves du Forum, 10 Rue Courmeaux. They have quite a nice Champagne section, but also good Burgundy, Rhone, and pretty much every area of France.
Thanks for all the advice. Still working on your reservations but will likely do the 1-hr touristy thing at Veuve or similar and be done with it. We will definitely be seeing the cathedral, and booked a lunch at Crayeres as well!
Question: if I stop at The wine store and pick up a few bottles, is it fairly safe to stow in my bag on the way home, or does one arrange shipping and, if so, does Cabes de Forum do it for you and what cost should I expect?
Thanks!
N
Reims. Regardless of what Alan thinks, it is NOT just another cathedral. It’s between Reims and Chartres for the best cathedral on France. On the other hand, a big Champagne house is a big Champagne house.
If you have time, you can take the train the Epernay, visit one of many Champagne houses located on the Avenue des Champagnes, take the train or bus to Reims, visit the cathedral (short walk from train station), and then take the train from Reims back to Paris.
See if you can get into Krug. It’s near the center of Reims and is a very pleasant visit that is much different than the big houses.
Chartres usually takes the title, though. But Reims is also historically important because that’s where all the French Kings (except a few) have been crowned, starting in 1027…
I suspect that the shop could ship it, but am uncertain of the price. We bought 6 bottles and wrapped them up in dirty laundry for the trip home. everything survived just fine. If we had bought more, shipping would have been the only option.
You could always take a shipper with you or have one sent to the hotel while you are there. Again, I have no idea what the shipping rates/duties/limits might be
Also, if you have seen paintings or sculptures in America, you can skip the d’Orsey.
Silly advice, which I am sure is half kidding. The Reims Cathedral is not only among the most significant historical sites in Europe, but it has an utterly unique set of Chagall windows that will take your breath away. I would gladly give up a trip to Notre Dame to visit Reims. For one thing there is no gift shop in operation round the clock during church services at Reims.
Ste Chapell is also mind-bendingly beautiful
I admit to half kidding. But seriously, once you’ve seen a few of the major cathedrals (and I’ve been through a couple dozen throughout Europe), you pretty much know what to expect. Reims is most definitely one of the better ones, particularly for the Chagal stained glass. And there IS a small gift shop in the back of the cathedral, though I don’t know if it’s open during services. Personally, I find Notre Dame much more interesting, with it’s flying buttresses, and prominent location on the island. The trouble with Reims is that the most interesting architecture is around the back, and there aren’t great viewpoints to see if from. But I definitely would not miss visiting if I were in Reims.
There are several older threads on getting wine back to the U.S. from Europe, I suggest looking for those. As Neal says, the absolute best way is to check it as luggage on your flight home. Take an empty styro shipper with you (and even better, buy a Wine Check to haul it around).
Any recommendations for decent hotels to stay for a night or two?
International chains work (marriott/ihg/spg) but local places are good too if they aren’t 500 euros/nite 
Les Crayeres is probably the best hotel in the region but most rooms will be 500+ euros/night unless you go during the off-season.
I’ve also stayed at Chateau Courcelles which was very nice and less expensive, but it isn’t in the most convenient location.
We stayed at the Grand Hotel Les Templiers in Reims. Small, charming, old world, reasonably priced, and nice location. It won’t change your life, but it served us very well. Extremely friendly people.