Yes, I saw that too. I’m not a subscriber but I would be curious to know what she actually wrote in her notes.
I stopped buying CD with the 2016 vintage, which I haven’t tried yet, but which I’m not over-optimistic about. Admittedly, the 2016s (both Clos de l’Echo and Crescendo) are a “mere” 13.5% ABV, which for CD is quite reasonable (believe it or not, the 2018s were a whopping 15.5% and 16% respectively!), but I suspect the lush style which Arnaud Couly favours will characterize both 2016s…and probably the 2019s. I noticed that the Echo 2019 is 14%.
There’s nothing “wrong” with making wines in that style, and presumably there’s a decent level of demand for them, otherwise he’d bite the bullet and make fresher-tasting wines. All the wines I’ve tried since 2004 have been well-made, but just not in the style I prefer. At around 25 euros they certainly represent good value if one does like that style and they often show up at auction for around the same price, even vintages which are ten to fifteen years old, or more…
Thanks Markus, that’s really interesting. I find it slightly odd that one should award 94/100 to a wine that’s “out of balance” (the Echo)!
Given the choices offered by K&L, I’d take the 2021 Blot Perrières at around the same price! But a bottle of Olive to try would tempt me…
I wouldn’t say opposite, similar sensory profiles after all (Bel Air maybe more dark fruited). But Bel Air has more of everything: depth, acidity, complexity … For the same price.
Yesterday’s Sanzay Poyeux 2021 sits somewhere between the two.
Sadly, barring a change of leadership I can’t imagine any change coming. He likes that style and that’s it. In a way it’s actually quite impressive that even in leaner years he succeeds in making lush wines. Only in 2013 did he fail to do so (there are limits!). But it’s a style which is very much on its own today - I can’t think of any other Loire producer (apart from in 2018) who still makes that kind of wine.
I know 2011 rather well. I bought quite a lot ten years ago, on the strength of the older CDs that I’d enjoyed so much. I didn’t even think of checking the ABV level, as at the time, it had never occurred to me that any Loire red could be over 13%. I remember opening my first half-bottle and realising after the first sip that something was terribly wrong! The 14.5% really hit the back of the throat. The wine did improve after a couple of years but I jacked it in eventually and sold the remaining bottles. But each to their own - there are some encouraging notes on CT and I hope you’ll enjoy it more than I did.
NOSE: dark-fruited — grape/blackberry jam; hint of pyrazine; not funky/bretty.
BODY: violet-garnet color of medium-deep depth; medium-light to medium bodied.
TASTE: Open and accessible; juicy; pyrazine and cherry Jolly Rancher candy; 2019 and 2020 vintages were more serious/structured. Some light-but-noticeable oak; no brett. This is a delicious, approachable daily drinker. Not much changed on Days 2 & 3 — it’s red-fruited, juicy, and lightly tannic. Even on Day 3, there was no apparent degradation. Drink or Hold. Gut impression score: 88 – 90.
2014 Domaine du Bel Air (Pierre et Rodolphe Gauthier) - Bourgueil - Les Marsaules
I know that @Brian_G_r_a_f_s_t_r_o_m is a great fan of this estate, so he’ll be pleased to know this was very good!
The nose is positively mouth-watering, full of ripe but fresh raspberries and blackcurrants. plenty of those fruits on the attack too, but what is really striking now is the complex middle section, with dark cherry and sweet blackberry mingling with blueberries, before the crisp blackcurrants round it off on the finish. Delicious and great value at 24 euros. 93 pts
Massive improvement since my last bottle opened in 2023 and the most impressive Marsaules I’ve tried. These clearly need time to really express themselves.
Great to hear that, Julian! I’ve yet to come across that bottling in my corner of the world, so haven’t tasted it, but have been quite curious about it nonetheless. Thank you for posting about it!
Cheers guys - I didn’t know that Les Marsaules wasn’t sold in the US. It’s number 3 in the lineup behind Le Grand Clos and Le Grand Mont. I’m in two minds about them but I really need to try them with more age.
I think it’s the case of the majority of Loire reds. They’re deceptively open young yet age for much longer than many expect, including me a few years ago.
Very much likely but this one to me almost screamed for either extended aeration or a lot of time sideways. Given the Marsaules’s quality I am really looking forward to eventually trying Clos Nouveau and Grand Mont but have so few that it will be difficult to pull the cork.
@IlkkaL The '16 Clos Nouveau was the one that made me swoon for this producer. Most subsequent vintages I’ve tried have been too young for much pleasure, unless one is capable of tasting past a lot of oak. That said, generally speaking, I’ve been finding the Grand Mont more approachable young than the Clos Nouveau.
