Excellent notes! That 2007sounds delish!
Thanks for sharing wines tonight Vince. The '07 Clos Senechal rocked.
You missed the '19 Perrieres, which was also very good and silky. Very different from the '05 with its firmer tannins.
Bummed to have missed out on the '19 Clos Senechal, but that’s what happens when you show up late.
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Did she talk about the vineyards, wines, and perceived hierarchy at all?
I spoke more to her husband Baptiste, who did provide some detail. We didn’t discuss their Chinon cuvees much. Of their Bourgeuil, Perrieres and Clos Senechal are their top 2 cuvees, with Perrieres being the oldest vines and longest-lived and Senechal being more silky in texture. Both are grown on a mix of limestone and clay over tuffeau, that limestone that many Loire buildings in the region are made with. They farm organically with massale selection for replantings, use minimal sulfur, and Senechal is aged in Foudre and Perrieres in barrel. He said they had some problems with brett and so they moved some production to cement as well in 21? 22? I forget. A couple people joked “can we buy the special brett bottles please.” Some of their wines don’t see any sulfur at all - I think it was D’Ivresse and Dilettante? They both spoke fondly of the 3 bottles of '47 Perrieres that Pierre Breton opened for their wedding. Really wonderful people!
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Well after a couple of 2017 Chinon disappointments, this was reassuring:
Bernard Baudry - La Croix Boissée - Chinon 2017
A Baudry wouldn’t be a Baudry without a strong smell of manure and this one had plenty! I’m not sure it’s a badge of honour, but it’s certainly a characteristic. Anyway, as usual a couple of hours in the decanter got rid of the pong, leaving bright notes of red cherry, redcurrant and herbs. On the palate, I was relieved to taste proper fruit, rather than the savoury variety, loads of wild strawberry and red cherry. At the moment, it doesn’t have the complexity it will have in the future, but it does have a beautifully silky texture and subtlety to the fruit. Very enjoyable indeed.
Out of curiosity, I compared it with the 2018
Bernard Baudry - La Croix Boissée - Chinon 2018
Much less pong than the 2017, the initial nose was almost clean, but it still improved after a few hours, becoming very persistent and perfumed, full of sweet peas and raspberries. On the palate, it has gone back into its shell compared to the last bottle tried in 2021, but is still very impressive - concentrated and intense red fruits, mostly rose hip and wild strawberry this time. A lovely wine in need of time.
For now, the 2017 is easier on the palate and shines in direct comparison, but the 2018 has the better future. There is simply more of everything that the 2017 offers.
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Oddly, 2017 is the one vintage I’m missing from 2015 - 2020; I must not have gotten an offer for that year. Will pick a couple up if/when I come across them somewhere.
Yeah, it’s really good stuff, my sister, and I split a case that was very cheaply priced.
Speaking of Hureau.
I opened this in winter, and very much in place but much lighter in color than the Lisagathe you posted just now. It’s a tad too classical for me… Hardly any detection of pyrazines. If you or any other Europe based posters is interested im happy to swap or sell the 5 i have.
Had a couple of excellent 2014s:
Clau de Nell - Cabernet Franc - Anjou 2014
No change to the lovely peony-driven nose, but on the palate, the edges have softened and the wine is gaining in length and complexity, promising even more to come. The strawberry and red cherry flavours are great, but the raspberry sherbet is now like a descant mid-palate, all very impressive rather than just charming. One of my favourites from 2014 with the potential to become a really outstanding Loire CF in another two years. Excellent value too.
Olga Raffault - La Singulière - Chinon 2014
Quite similar in style, peonies and rosehips plus some raspberry on the nose, then a fresh, crisp attack of raspberry and redcurrant, a touch of plum midpalate as it eases towards a persistent but cool finish. Not a hair out of place, not sugary, not oaky, but with more concentrated fruit than Les Picasses. Not everyone prefers this cuvée, but for me there’s no comparison. It’s one to try if you like the new Loire CF style and are not a fan of Les Picasses.
I immediately bought more of these - they still sell La Singulière at the Domaine - for a mere 20 euros a bottle.
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So funny that I still have not tried that new Raffault Cuvee! Need to track it down, though you know I love the old-school model!
I’m pretty sure you’ll like it - my feeling is that it’s like Cuvée JG vs SM, so a bit more of everything but without losing the essential identity of the producer and terroir.
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The 2017 Guion Deux Monts is delicious now, with likely a long life ahead of it. Very classic Loire Cab Franc flavors. Raspberry berry + leaf, petrichor, hint of bell pepper. It has the concentration you typically only get from old vines. There is only a scosh of Brett in the clove range which for me is much better then the full on barnyard. I loved this and ordered a 6 pack of the 2018 version. Grand cru vineyards in Bourgueil for my taste. Amazing QPR here.
Speaking of Brett, was it particularly bad for Baudry in 2020? I only have tried Grezeaux and Clos Guillot and both had more funk then I have experienced from here in previous vintages going back to 2002. Would love to hear others opinions, I wonder if there is more Brett or I’m getting less tolerant of it?
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I’m not Baudry worshipper but I am normally impressed with the Guillot. I’d be pretty shocked if there isn’t some level of brett on the 2020. It was funky and a bit sour.
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I buy a lot of the Deux Monts. I normally do not buy many wines at all from the riper years, but they pulled off a killer 2018. Actually, this domain seems to do particularly well in riper years. I grabbed a full case. The 2014 as well.
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Opened a 2016 Raffault Picasses a few nights ago. It’s moving along in positive fashion, with this bottle clearly better than my first opened sometime last year, iirc. Actual TN forthcoming eventually.
I had 2 last year and i loved them both. I found them ready to drink but with no fear of falling apart.
Had a couple of Clos Guillots this week:
Bernard Baudry - Clos Guillot - Chinon - 2008 and 2010
2008: Very bright, fresh and vibrant still, with sappy red cherry dominating both nose and palate. Quite acidic, like Guillot often is, and the only reproach I might make is that it lacks a bit of a bass line, a bit of stuffing, but very enjoyable as it is and, surprisingly, better on this occasion than the 2010.
2010: Like the 08, very fresh and acidic, with sappy fruit and perhaps a more floral nose. The fruit is a blend of red cherry and redcurrant, very appealing but at this stage, just lacking a little charm compared to the 08.
Neither showed any signs of brett. Both were very precise, crisp wines, quite elegant, but perhaps a bit simple and straightforward - I mean still very enjoyable, but I was expecting a little more complexity at their age, whereas I just got youthful charm.
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Perhaps a reason for the lack of complexity is that the vines in Clos Guillot are relatively young? According to the Baudry website, the vines there were planted between 1993-2000, so the oldest vines were only about 15 years old at the time.
I also read people have said Clos Guillot has improved in more recent vintage – I’m wondering whether that has to do with vine age.
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