Well, curiosity got the better of me and next week became this week! I have a relative blind spot concerning LCB, because older vintages are hard to come by over here, unlike other wines, and their prices are very high, so to get a clear idea, I opened a 2006 as well as the 2018. I decanted the latter in the morning, but only opened the 2006 in the evening.
Domaine Bernard Baudry - La Croix Boissée - Chinon 2006
Spring flowers, a hint of leather and redcurrant aromas, then a bright but crisp attack of red berries, mainly redcurrant, with the red cherry coming behind, lifting elegantly into a rich but restrained crescendo of richer tastes, now with hints of raspberry and just a touch of blackcurrant, before a well-rounded, persistent but crisp finale which leans back towards the redcurrant. Perhaps the faintest hint of brett, but what is striking is the underlying chalkiness, together with a strict framework which allows the fruit to shine without letting it spill over into any sense of syrupiness.
Domaine Bernard Baudry - La Croix Boissée - Chinon 2018
Literally mouth-watering notes of raspberry and red cherry, in fact just writing this makes my mouth water again, remembering them. The aromas are so good that it took me a while to go any further, and I’m not generally that patient, but also the nose is immediately reassuring - this is not a fruit-bomb - there is a tension there too, plus some strong notes of sweet peas, to show that this is not going to disappoint.
The attack is fresh, crisp and crunchy, just like a Roches Neuves, with raspberry, dark cherry, a little blackberry, before a strong wave of sour cherry takes over. There is certainly a lot of fruit, but it is under control, well-restrained by the framework and chalkiness in the background. The elegance is there too, with a beautiful middle section where the raspberry dominates, but within the limits set by the framework and the finish is just sensational, very long and sweet, but this is the sweetness of an organic wine, so without excessive sugar.
Tasting them together was fascinating. They were clearly from the same producer and the same plot, there was a definite sense of place and typicity, so whether or not you believe in “terroir”, these were good examples of how the origins of a wine can transcend a vintage. The 2006 simply tasted more mature than the 2018, but the latter was just as true to its origins as the former.
As to which one was better - well, the 2018 impressed me more. Obviously it is too young to enjoy properly now, but the potential is huge. The fruit needs time to settle down, but it has a volume and intensity that the 2006 does not have. Once again however, I must stress that the volume is not over-blown, it is kept firmly under control by the framework - I keep using that term because it is so appropriate - the Baudrys have made a 2018 which is not at all like some 2005s I have tasted, there is no Parkerish high octane gloopiness. So yes, the 2006 is leaner, it is a lovely wine in its own right, but unless you really don’t want ripe flavours at all, the 2018 will go further.
The chalkiness defined both wines as Chinons, but I was struck by how similar the profiles were to that of a Roches Neuves - the 2018 could easily have been a Les Mémoires.
The 2006 has 13.5° alcohol, the 2018 has 14°, and there is no perceptible difference. The 2018 has enough acidity and chalkiness to ensure that it will never collapse into the gloopy syrup flavours of so many Bordeaux 2009s, for example.
Overall, this confirmed what I thought already - the 2018, like those of other producers, is a good bet if you are 50 or younger. It needs a good ten years to shine properly and probably fifteen. For those like me who are a little more “mature”, I would opt for the 2016 or the 2017, which will be more enjoyable younger, but I would bet on the 2018 being the better wine - I thought it was sensational.