Olivier Lamy is a freak, and I say this in the most kind of ways, he is a great mate. He has such an intimate knowledge of his vineyards and the individual vines in these plots. He has started a catalogue that tracks the performance and details of the genetics of each vine. His attention to detail in the vineyards and cellar is something to behold and resultant wines are some of the best on the planet. Now, under their DIAM closures, these are wines for the ages, that will cellar effortlessly for decades. Olivier invited us to come and taste his 2023’s from bottle. They are from top to bottom a magnificent set of wines. There’s the generosity of the vintage coupled with the clarity of the domaine. He has worked in some phenolic chew to these 2023’s that gives the wine freshness and energy. We also tried a couple of older vintages including two scintillating Magnums.
2023 Domaine Hubert Lamy Bourgogne Blanc Les Chataigners : Rich orchard fruits with grapefruit cut. Has a citrus pith feel in the mouth and is lightly spiced. It finishes with some tang.
2023 Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin La Princée Blanc : Yellow fruits abound. Good minerality here. Round and unctuous in the mouth. Lightly chalky with some salinity on the tail.
2023 Domaine Hubert Lamy Chassagne-Montrachet Le Concis du Champs : Lemon curd and peach fruits. Fruit sweet at its heart. Good shape, rich and layered, Finishes with a squeeze of lemon and some mineral.
2023 Domaine Hubert Lamy Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots Vieilles Vignes : The nose is calm and inviting. There are generous and soft white peach notes. It is fleshy and juicy with some crisp lemon tang. Lovely balance.
2023 Domaine Hubert Lamy Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Gravières Blanc : Ripe apple and peach fruits. Shapely in the mouth with good underlying chew. Saline minerality and very long.
2023 Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos du Meix Blanc : The nose has some preserved lemon and green apple. It is full and rich through the mid palate and has balancing acidity. It is fresh and vital, finishing with energetic confidence.
2023 Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard Blanc : A wealth of fruit here but such great containment. Chewy structure layered and loaded with saline minerality.
2023 Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly Blanc : A rich and powerful wine. Preserved lemon and pure white peach fruits. A creamy entry to the mouth and then it is vertical and working along a narrow minerally channel for now. Great intensity and drive.
2023 Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien Blanc : So direct, complex and intense. Rigid and linear with citrus and mineral driving hard through the palate. Strict and chewy with outstanding length.
2023 Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chateniere Blanc Vieilles Vignes : Some toasty reduction. Sappy and layered with plenty of lemon and salt. Layered and mouthfilling. Awesome length. Needs time to unfurl.
2023 Domaine Hubert Lamy Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Macherelles : Shapely. Green melon and white peach. Richly fruited at its core. Layered, minerally and long.
2023 Domaine Hubert Lamy Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées: Has some young vines planted at Haute Densité in the cuvee. Superb intensity. Sappy orchard fruits and aniseed spice. Creamy and rich yet detailed and long. So much wine here.
2023 Domaine Hubert Lamy Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots Cuvée Haute Densité : Similar to the standard bottling but everything is under amplification and there’s more intensity. Plenty of spice. The most gorgeous white peach fruit. So much structural chew and length to burn.
2023 Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard Cuvée Haute Densité : So strict and linear. Yellow fruits and geological matter. Squint inducing intensity. Fabulous cut and chewy and long. Outstanding!
2023 Domaine Hubert Lamy Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Cuvée Haute Densité Grand Cru : It draws you in from first sniff. A myriad of spices, perfectly ripe white peach, smoky mineral things and some brioche. The palate is full and rich, deep and layered. It has extraordinary power, and intensity yet is light on its feet. Flavours fill every crevice of the mouth and then the wine tightens in to a singular minerally point. Length is incredible.
2019 Domaine Hubert Lamy Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots Cuvée Haute Densité : Intense and pure white peach fruit. A whiff of toast and some freshly baked bread. Arum Lily florals and minerally tension. Wonderful shape and presence. Great energy and some chalky chew.
2018 Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard Cuvée Haute Densité : From Magnum this was off the charts good. Tight with intense lemon fruit and some smoky mineral. Unctuous through the mid palate. Waves of citrus and saline minerality punctuate the long finish.
2018 Domaine Hubert Lamy Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Cuvée Haute Densité Grand Cru : From Magnum this was the bomb. Just starting to open up, showing its rich fruit personality but it is so contained. Complex notes of peach and apple, citrus confit, almon butter and brown spices. It is layered and built, possessing great support from structural minerally things buried just below the flesh. The finish powers on and on and on.
2023 Domaine Hubert Lamy Chassagne-Montrachet La Goujonne Rouge Vieilles Vignes : There’s a fair bit of whole bunch here. It has quite a spicy nose with some cherry and chocolate too. Ripe fruits play over a chalky base.
2023 Domaine Hubert Lamy Santenay Clos des Hâtes : Raspberry and plum fruits greet the nose. There’s a juicy quality to the palate. It is full and generous, inviting and fresh. You can drink now with absolute pleasure.
2023 Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard Vieilles Vignes : Very stony. Ripe plum and cherry fruits strewn with geological matter. Good complexity. Possesses a sweet centre and an earthy closure.
2023 Domaine Hubert Lamy Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Gravières Vieilles Vignes : This is wide open and full. Cherry fruits and violets with good ripeness through the mid palate. Lovely balance. Mineral tension then expansion.