‘94, ‘70 & ‘69 Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva.

WINE TALK
1

Sunday the 3rd June, my wife and I at a “historical vintages” private tour and “tasting” at Badia a Coltibuono in Gaiole, Chianti (the quotation marks on “tasting” because one pays for and takes home the bottles).

The ‘94’s cork stuck badly to the sides, so had to be pushed in and strained into a decanter. The ‘70’s & ‘69’s corks were understandably a bit damp a fourth down, and split a little; but, with care, came out cleanly.

The house’s general style seems svelte and elegant rather than muscular and forward. The ‘94 put on weight after some minutes and showed the most concentration, heft, and body; and seemed still in the process of coming fully together. Decent length.

The ‘70 was medium bodied at most, presented one a serene personality and soft, velvety fruit/texture. Notably poised. Length was medium.

The ‘69 was the leanest of the three, showing a bit of green in the fruit, and drying tannins in the finish. Drinkable, not unpleasant; but not very interesting other than its age.

After the “tasting” and a nice chat with our guide, we took the remainder of the bottles to the on site restaurant and had them with lunch. The ‘94 was good with the meal; the ‘70 for a nice, more contemplative drink before our coffee (we skipped dessert). The ‘69 we pretty much ignored.
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2

Thanks for the notes.

I wonder how the blend of grapes has changed since 69-70. Those old wines probably had some trebbiano and malvasia along with the red grapes. As I recall, some white grapes were required at the time. The Chianti Classico rules changed several times in recent decades. I believe they first changed to allow but not require white grapes. Then they banned all white grapes and allowed a significant proportion of non-Tuscan red types. Then they capped the non-local grape types at 20%. I’m not sure what the rules were in '94.

3

The old rule on white grapes was changed in 1996. It was also then that 20% cab sauv/merlot was allowed.

As regards the wines I posted on, the producer itself says that their old reserves used Sangiovese 65%, Canaiolo and Ciliegiolo 15%, Trebbiano and Malvasia 20%, and that the grapes thereof came from their Montebello and Argenina vineyards in Monti.

Best,

N

4

Thanks. I wonder what the blend was in '94.

5

Considering that, at the time (beginning sometime in the very early ‘80s including ‘94), the producer had a 100% sangiovese line called “Sangioveto” (labelled as “vino da tavola”), it would be reasonably safe to assume that their CCR would still have contained a bit of malvasia.