Our Wednesday night wine dinner group enjoyed a fabulous evening on the outside lawn of the private home of the caterer we engaged to do our dinner.
The setting was magnificent for the 16 of us who were seated at a long rectangular table on the edge of the property which sits about a mile island and high enough above the coastline to provide a view of the ocean and the channel islands in the background.
From one end
From the opposite end
Our wine theme was to do magnums for all wines and to taste them blind by covering all bottles in aluminum foil. Due to the amount of wine per bottle, we extended our invites to include spouses and significant others and we had 6.
As usual, we discussed each wine and were obviously challenged to ID the varietal{s], types and sources and to have the input of some who are not usually in attendance made for an extra interesting and informative evening.
In all, we had 3 sparkling wines, 3 white wines and 6 red wines, all in magnums and wrapped in foil. The foil was effective in disguising all but one bottle and that was my bring, a Cristal, with the telltale clear glass just barely peaking out the top to allow it to be poured without passing over aluminum, if the flat bottom wasnāt enough of a giveaway.
Our host/ chef employed 2 servers/ pourers and created an amazing meal. Hereās the menu:
We poured the sparkling wines and whites with the starters.
2009 LOUIS ROEDERER CRISTAL BRUT in magnum- blind, sort of.
The last time I sampled this vintage was in July 2023 and it was also in a magnum format; it was at that time I communicated with the house to learn it was this vintage that was the first one the year was shown outside of the oval logo in the center of the label; the next vintages to do so was 2008 which was released after the 2009 and the 2002 Late Release which was the only other one to do so to this point.
The blend for the 2009 is a slight deviation from the usual 60/40 having 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay, all from their oldest, mostly bio-dynamically farmed estate vineyards out of 7 grand cru villages, plus Mareuil-sur-AĆæ; it was dosed at 9.5 gpl.
Every bottle Iāve had has been terrific since the initial release being rich and creamy with lots of complexity, focused acidity, toasty brioche and a wondrous mousse; this bottle was way different; I found it to be very tight and surmised it was in a valley fully knowing it has all of the stuffing to please immensely when it reaches its peak; but, how long will it take before it gets there?; the initial sampling on this occasion was more about elegance and charm and balance while giving up mild fresh lemon and lime notes from the nose through the tail; about an hour later, I re-visited it and found it to be much more expressive with more body, depth and substance while still maintaining nice balance; so, I am super optimistic for this to deliver immense pleasure in the future if this bottle was in deed representative of where the champagne is now or just a bottle variation.
When we went around the table to discus it, one couple nailed it and all who knew Cristal is bottled in a clear glass bottle {and with a flat bottom} already had the house pegged. I seem to remember there are a few others that use clear glass and I may have to seek one out for a future blind tasting to keep everyone in check, Drappierās Grande Sendree being one.
2013 ROEDERER ESTATE LāERMITAGE ANDERSON VALLEY BRUT in magnum- blind; 52% Chardonnay (including 4% reserve wine from the 2011 vintage) with 48% Pinot Noir dosed at 8 gpl; for me, this was a step up from the Cristal having just a bit more of everything albeit in a youthful, playful, fresh and crisp place; the fruit profile included savory honey coated lemon, orange, honeydew melon and mango with an underlying level of acidity; it had some body and substance and was very pleasing. Somewhere deep in my memory banks, this resonated and was mindful of many past bottles as it used to be our house bubbly; so, I took the chance of calling it at least the Roederer Estate without any assuredness and lo and behold. Lucky guess and a win for the new world release over an old world classic.
NV ERIC RODEZ GRAND CRU BLANC de NOIRS BRUT in magnum- blind; the label did not provide any details, but a recent release was comprised of 100% Ambonnay Pinot Noir sourced from 11 vineyards with an average vine age of 39 years; the blend consists of 24% 2012, 29% 2011, 14% 2010, 11% 2009, 13% 2008 and 9% 2007; 90% was vinified in barrels; 10% got malolactic fermentation; 4% gpl dosage; the Pinot Noir profile was well represented here with ripe red cherry/ berry noticeable in the nose along with some white flowers and on the palate along with some minerals, spice and citrus; it was crisp and balanced with subtle oak influence and seemingly having a low dosage. I had no idea as to what it was, but did think NV and Pinot Noir dominate, but not 100%.
2014 DOMAINE CHRISTOPHE et FILS FOURCHAUME CHABLIS 1er Cru in magnum- blind; following its medium yellow color came aromas of green and yellow apple with the latter more prominent; once tasted, some lemon zest joined in along with a coat of honey and a streak of minerals; it was delightfully elegant and easy on the palate and I was guessing it to be a white Burgundy {not Chablis}, but once revealed and noting the absence of any flint or petrol I would never have got it.
2010? CANTINA TERLAN VORBERG RISERVA PINOT BIANCO in magnum- blind; I did not find the vintage on the front label and am not sure I heard it right when it was announced; this wine comes from a cooperative founded in the late 19th century in the Alto Adige DOC zone in Northeastern Italy with a strong Austrian influence; the wine itself was pretty intense; it had a medium green yellow color and aromas of petrol, minerals and flint laced pineapple, tangerine and guava that continued on with a bit if sweetness and being delivered in an oily, viscus textured medium; it also had a buttery component that added to its allure; I guessed it was Viognier, some had it as Marsanne, Roussanne and another had it as a white Burg.
2005 DOMAINE des BAUMARD SAVENNIERES in magnum- blind; 100% Chenin Blanc from a tiny region located on the northern banks of the Loire River, just across from the town of Rochefort Sur Loire; the blind format made for an interesting evaluation on this wine as well, as it had an unfamiliar profile that made it difficult for me to ID the varietal and its place of origin; the nose was muted, but on the palate, it had some glycerin, flint and mineral accented tangerine with a honey sweetener topping; the minerality was mild and therefore atypical for this Chenin if I have that right; I was stumped and heard otherās equally puzzled as to what we had here, but it was real good and that was enough. From the producerās website: āThe 2005 vintage is a bit richer and softer than the 2004, having undergone partial ML fermentation and carrying a couple grams of residual sugarā which I did not detect.
We moved on to 6 reds, all also poured blind and in magnum format. They were paired with the mains of which there were 2 fine courses:
2015 DOMAINE DROUHIN-LAROZE CLOS de VOUGEOT GRAND CRU in magnum- blind; classic Pinot Noir here with the bright red purple color, a nose full of cherries and berries and a nice fruity, easily approachable palate experience aided by a silky mouthfeel; it was enhanced by a streak of spice and a whiff of smoke; this was an excellent wine in nice balance with some depth and complexity and I called it old world Pinot.
2018 DOMAINE du VIEUX TELEGRAPHE FAMILLIE BRUNIER CHATEAUNEUF-du-PAPE in magnum- blind; this is comprised of 65% Grenache Noir, 15% MourvĆØdre, 15% Syrah, 5% Cinsault and Clairette; our bottle was very fruit forward with burnt red cherry {jujube} most prominent; it was spicy good and silky smooth and I was all over the place trying to ID it, but settled on just liking it and being real curious as to what it was.
2005 E. GUIGAL HOMMAGE a ETIENNE GUIGAL COTE ROTIE in magnum- blind; this was a real treat featuring a soft and smooth textured wine that offered slightly sweetened and coffee accented red, blue and dark fruit with blueberry being most evident; it was mellow and yet had layers of depth with an interesting shift from cherry to blueberry to blackberry; I had no clue as to what it was, thinking it might be a new world, cool climate Syrah.
2016 CHARLES JOGUET CHINON CLOS du CHENE VERT in magnum- blind; 100% Cabernet Franc; I did not get the varietal thinking it was Cabernet, but loved the wine; it had a dark, youthful, vibrant red purple color; the nose included serious aromas of dried cherry/ berry with some tar and smoke {or was it coming from the nearby wood fired oven as other wines were also smoke laden?}; it was rich and full bodied and yet was graceful enough having some finesse and charm.
2010 DOMAINE MICHEL & STEPHANE OGIER dāAMPUIS COTE ROTIE in magnum- blind; this spice bomb had some cinnamon accented dark fruit with blackberry most prominent; it was really tasty and impressive with its youthful vibrance and yet mature stature; it was super spicy and for me, not to a fault. Once, revealed, I saw this was another unknown producer to me that makes some impressive wines and, as with the many others on this night, I was grateful for the bring as it was one of my favs.
2005 R. LOPEZ de HEREDIA VINA TONDONIA RESERVA RIOJA in magnum- blind; although the label does not state such, I initially believed this was the Gran Reserva having recalled a conversation with Monica Nogues, of Think Global Wines and a close friend of the winery; but I have now confirmed with her it is in fact a Reserva; I loved the wine as I always have even though it was blind and I did not recognize it; it had a myriad of aromas and flavors including mint dark chocolate, coffee, licorice and yes, the smoke note; blackberry and black raspberry were the key fruit notes and its hallmark may have been its iron fist in a velvet glove persona. I had a lot of favs on the night and this was in the top 3.
And a great night it was. It was fun to have the spouses and significant others who jumped right in and shared their impressions and insights.
And, we were royally taken care of and treated to an excellent al fresco dinner with ocean and mountain views during sunset hours.
Cheers,
Blake
