1987 Kenwood Cabernet Sauvignon ‘Artist’s Series’ Sonoma Valley –
I’ve been working through my case, the bottles have been pretty consistent. This had less bricking, more youth and muscularity than most I’ve opened, a deep vigorous Cab with mineral nuances, close to Medoc in style. There’s something leafy winding its way through the mid-palate, unusual in California but welcome. This is fine and in no hurry. Rated 92.
2015 St Joseph Blanc ‘Grand Classique’ Cave de Tain* –
This is pure Marsanne, the color is light to medium gold. The aromas feature bartlett pear and some honeyed notes. The palate has good texture and richness, but the flavor profile is slightly bland and tired. This is a good glass, was probably better a few years ago. Rated 86.5, drink up.
1999 Matrot Puligny 1er Cru ‘Combettes’ -
The color was a little too-dark gold, the aromas were a little too bready, the palate a little too soft. This was on its last legs, perked up for a few minutes in the glass, then faded away. I bought it the same day I opened it, from a good retailer that had stored it perfectly, but, alas… Rated <80.
2018 Saint-Peray ‘Fleur du Roc’ Cave de Tain* –
Brilliant light gold color. The aromas feature pear, straw, a tiny hint of peach and some herbal notes. This is lighter in body than the Saint-Joseph, but far finer, still with enough weight and texture to make a solid impression. There’s vigor, muscle and piquancy here. This is completely drinkable today, could improve for a few years but I don’t think it will be a long distance runner. Rated 91.5, a point or two of improvement possible over the next few years.
2021 Domaine de l’Enclos Chablis –
A new producer for me. Typical greeny-gold color. Aromas are very fresh and vivid, if not very complex, with green apple notes. The palate offers bountiful acidity and some nice fruit, but the major impression is of a simple white redeemed by fresh acidity. Rated 85.5, could improve a point or two with time.
2016 Ridge Zinfandel, Pagani Vineyard –
Medium crimson color. The aromas offer intense berry and tobacco notes. The palate is a bruiser, rich and tannic, but with lovely balance on a cool Cape Cod spring evening. This is in a nice place, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it had offered more freshness a few years ago and won’t offer more polite subtlety with age. Rated 90.5 now, 2 - 3 points of improvement possible over a decade.
2018 Tasca Conti d’Almerita Catarratto Antisa Tenuta Regaleali –
This was a BTG special at Buca Italian Roadhouse on Cape Cod. I’d never heard of it, but it was a beautiful surprise. This one is salty, in both senses of the word. A distinct saline note is paired with an in-your-face, almost belligerent attitude. Lemons, piquant acidity, peachy, floral hints give you a cornucopia. This is still rather youthful at five years. Rated 92.5, possibly mature, definitely idiosyncratic. How do you say ‘vive la difference’ in Italian?
2020 Ratti Barbera d’Asti –
Also btg at Buca’s. I cannot recommend the restaurant and these two wines highly enough.
The aromas were plummy and a little smoky. The palate offered a lot of easy-going pleasure to offset tannins that were abundant but fine, unusually friendly for a good Barbera this young. Rated 91, not sure it will improve but should hold well for at least a few years.
2015 Crozes-Hermitage ‘Grand Classique’ Cave de Tain* –
Dark ruby color. The aromas feature intense black cherry, with some raspberry and currant notes, with a hint of basil. The palate is surprisingly rich, quite piquant, full of more raspberry fruit, densely lacy. I don’t think of basic Crozes as ageable, but this is still youthful. The purity of fruit, vigor and lift are wonderfully harmonious. Rated 92. This might actually improve, but it’s so good today that I will probably drink the balance of my case over the next year or so.
1998 Pio Cesare Barbaresco ‘Il Bricco’ -
Dark garnet color, very slight bricking at rim. The aromas are beautiful, black and red cherry, quite floral, no burnt tires. The palate texture is gorgeous, tannins resolved but with vibrant acidity. This is wonderful, there is more heft than usual in Barbaresco, magnified by the finesse of the tannins, but it still has the ethereal quality of great wine. Rated 94.5, fully mature.
2014 Historic Vineyard Society Zinfandel, Pacini Vineyard -
What have we here? A nicely aromatic glass featuring red raspberry, sage and smoke. The palate is rich, brambly, gnarly, but very well balanced. There is an abundance of fully ripe tannins along with nicely balancing acidity. This is not an ooze monster, but a polite powerhouse. Rated 93, ready to drink.
*I imported the wines of the Cave de Tain for about 5 years, including both of the 2015s but have no further commercial interest.
Dan Kravitz