5 Superb Bottles

Impromptu dinner with some good friends. Everyone brought along a bottle. Every bottle was superb.

2012 Domaine Ramonet Bâtard-Montrachet, Grand Cru : Drinking beautifully. Has a touch of toasty development to the aroma. It is loaded with sappy white peach fruit. There’s some floral spice and a sprig of mint. It is deep, unctuous and layered. There’s a vein of minerality just below the flesh and it is powerful, yet elegant. Length is superb.

2017 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots: Very pure of fruit and a real crystalline quality to the wine. There’s white peach and preserved lemons. It has a touch of spice and great shape. It builds through the palate, with a light butteriness against the gums and finishes with mineral cut. Still too young but all class.

2017 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts : A wine of great energy and clarity. The nose is all white peach and white flowers. The palate is direct and detailed, with excellent complexity and richness. There’s a suggestion of aniseed and it oozes minerality. The finish powers on. Not far off Grand Cru quality for mine.

1999 Domaine G. Roumier Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos de La Bussière : Still incredibly youthful, with a core of intense blue fruits. There’s a suggestion of meat and earth too. It is direct and pure, with substantial, structural chew. It shows florals with air and has excellent mineral cut and persistence.

2007 Château Rayas Côtes du Rhône Château de Fonsalette Reserve : Still quite a deep colour. The nose is very ripe, showing blood plum and raisin fruits. There are notes of scorched earth, iron and wild herbs too. It rich, rich and creamy. Tannins are ripe and acidity low, but the wine is very much alive and energetic. It is just a bit slutty, but very enjoyable.


Thanks Jeremy. I’ve actually not had the Sauzet Referts except by fluke (mainly Champ Canet and Combettes). But your note makes it sounds like it’s right up there and I should remedy that shortcoming! How would you compare it to the Carillon Referts (which I tend to think of as the refer ence standard)?

Right up there, but I would just give the nod to Carillon’s version which I adore.

Thanks Jeremy for the note on the Roumier Bussieres. I have a couple of bottles of the 99 and a few of the 2002. Do you think the 99 is ready? Years ago I had the 2000 and was quite impressed so I sought out whatever I could until pricing went through the roof.

David, I have 1 bottle of the '99 remaining and wont touch for another 5+ years. The '00 is far more open-knit.

I yet have to find a 2007 Rhône that is not worth its while. What a vintage!

And if that 2007 is a Rayas then…well… Congrats!

5 Superb notes