Three of our members of the Monday Night Blind Wine Dinner Group welcomed our friend and local winemaker Fred Brander as a guest on this evening while we blind tasted 4 wines and feasted on numerous deletable dishes at our esteemed venue, Ca Dario Montecito.
The broad wine assignments included a bubbly, a white and 2 reds with Fred and I responsible for bringing a red. For me, it was a no brainer as I wanted to bring one of Fred’s Bordeaux varietal wines which have always shown well in blind formats although he’s more known for his delicious Sauvignon Blancs.
Having attended one of many special celebrations of Brander Winery’s 50th Anniversary just 2 days prior, I was able to secure a bottle from their library and was waiting patiently to see if Fred could ID his own wine or if the others could get at least the varietal and place. That did not happen, in fact, it was called an old world wine from Left Bank Bordeaux by 2 of us. Here’s some notes:
2008 ALFRED GRATIEN CUVEE PARADIS BRUT ROSE- blind; this is a blend of 63% Chardonnay and 37% Pinot Noir from premiers and grands crus, was vinified in small oak barrels without malolactic fermentation and spent a wowzer 13 years on lees; it was disgorged in November 2023 and dosed at an unperceptible 8 gpl; the salmon copper color gave us the heads-up this was a rose and the huge nose confirmed it with aromas of rose petals, clove, spice and cardamon accented mature red raspberry and strawberry fruit; the taste profile contained more of the same while also confirming some advanced notes of an early oxidative stage; this was very concentrated with layered depth, had subtle power and a wealth of acidity; it was mindful of some of the NV Ruinart Roses I’d had many years ago when that was our house rose and we were going through 6 packs monthly; so; I called it a NV Ruinart with a 2008 base.
2016 PIERRE-YVES COLIN-MOREY EN REMILLY SAINT-AUBIN 1er Cru- blind; from the outset, there was no doubt was a class white Burgundy, but which commune and what vintage?; following its light to medium yellow color came soft and gentle inviting aromas of tropical fruit and lemon zest with a hint of a coat of honey; the palate was more yellow apple fruit dominate along with a hint of chalky minerality while it was being delivered in an oily, feel good texture, it was steady and even throughout and just kept making a statement of class and elegance. One of the others got the commune, but we were all over with the vintage as I guessed it to be ’14-’18 and missed the producer although I’ve had many, many En Remillys from them, but containing nicely integrated petrol, flint and minerality not present in this bottle.
2009 ROMANO DAL FORNO VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE VIGNETO di MONTE LODOLETTA- blind; 70% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 5% Croatian and 5% Oseleta; the color was a dark, almost inky red purple and the nose and taste profile offered concentrated notes of cedar, leather and earth accented black cherry and blackberry with a hint of some bell pepper in the background; it was the bell pepper character that threw me off and I’m thinking this is my bring, a Brander Cab, some of which used to be inundated with such; regardless, this was fabulous and got my attention with its serious depth and concentration and strong tannic backbone which suggests many years are ahead before its reaches its apogee; this is a powerful wine that kept opening up and giving more and more over time. If this was not my bring, then I was going with it being a Cabernet, if not a Cab blend with 15 years of age on it and had there been some vanilla, dill, coconut and/or sweet spices, a Silver Oak.
2004 BRANDER VINEYARDS ESTATE SANTA YNEZ VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON RESERVE- blind; my bring, although not recognized; decanted 4 hours; the color was a very dark youthful red purple; the nose offered tar and roses laden red and black cherry with an underlying note of black currant; additional accents of chocolate and coffee came in once tasted; it had a soft and smooth mouthfeel and finished with everything coming together and hangin\g on for a grand finale; I’m thinking this is a Bordeaux blend and maybe Left Bank; it was devoid of any vegetal character I’d experienced previously with some Brander Cabs and I did not get it as being such; irrespective, I loved the wine and the surprise of discovering what it was. Way to go Fred! The others were all over the place and old world, even a Spanish Tempranillo was one consideration.
We had another fun night albeit humbling and educational for sure. Life is good and this is one of those times it’s even just a bit better.
Cheers,
Blake
L-R: Fred Brander, Mark Howard, me and Bill Bowles