30 x Corton & Charlemagne in Graz

Corton & Charlemagne-tasting in Graz, 22 people (several couples) and 16 x 5 stems to fill.
The points are mine, but we did vote for the favorite and 2nd favorite of the group after each flight: 1st 2 points, 2nd 1 point.
Notes are necessarily short.

Corton blanc:

flight #1:

(1) Corton-Charlemagne Dom. Marius Delarche 2004: fine, complex, balanced, 93p
(2) Corton-Charlemagne Dom. Dubreul-Fontaine 2004: brighter, but slightly less long than #1, 91p
(3) Corton-Charlemagne Maison Ellia 2004: really outstanding, balanced, intense minerality, very long, (this was actually a domaine-bottling, but unknown by whom), 94p
(4) Corton-Charlemagne Domaine Senard 2014 (!): good intensity and substance, but primary and not very interesting, potential for 92p, now (87p) - plastic cork like Ponsot!
(5) Corton-Charlemagne Dom. Pierre Marey 2002: deep but bright colour, intense, perfectly mature, no hurry, 94p
Groups favorites: #5 (20) #3 (18) #1 (13)

Fingerfood with shrimps & Mango & Prosciutto & Avocado

flight #2:

(6) Corton-Charlemagne Domaine R.Denis 1986: full yellow colour, buttery and a bit of honey, but good acidity, nice to drink, 90p
(7) a) Corton-Charlemagne Dom. Maurice Chapuis 1990: slightly corked, so I took:
b) Corton-Charlemagne: Maison Louise Perrin 1999: (already opened), almost brighter than #1-3, intense stoney fruit, great focus, 92p
(8) Corton-Vergennes (blanc) Chateau de Bligny 1990: darkest colour, slightly broad and soft nose, but good on palate, 88p
(9) Corton-Charlemagne Bonneau du Martray 1979: great mature colour, intense, 95p
(10) Corton-Charlemagne Domaine Rapet Pere & Fils 1976: more intense and lively than #9, textbook mature CC, 96p
Groups favorites: #10 (20) #9 (16) #7b (14)

flight #3:

(11) Corton-Charlemagne Domaine Rapet Pere & Fils 1993: fine, very lively, only lacking slightly weight (due to vintage), 91p
(12) Corton-Charlemagne Dom. Demeure-Darnat 2000: very nice wine, close to mature, flowery, a bit soft, very enjoyable, 90p
(13) Corton-Charlemagne Dom. Leroy 1994: no hint of new oak, very intense, perfect acidity, really strong, 95p
(14) Corton-Charlemagne: Bonneau du Martray 1985: full colour, this was vg, even outstanding, but slightly broad and behind the 1979 … 92p
(15) Corton-Charlemagne Maison Faiveley 2000: a great wine, early maturity, focused but expansive, marriage between flowery and minerally, great length, 97p
Groups favorites: #15 (22) #13 (19) #11 (10)

Scampi alla buzzara with lemon-polenta & grilled mediterranean vegetables

Side note: 7 bottles were potential candidates for PREMOX … not one showed any tiny sign of it … (but granted, I´ve eliminated beforehand wines like Jadot or younger Bonneau-d-M.)

Corton rouge:

flight #4:
(16) Corton Rognet et Corton Dom. Pierre Guillemont 2003: still full ruby, quite soft, very good and enjoyable now, but will improve, my rating 92p (fav. of the group)
(17) Corton-Bressandes Dom. Chandon de Briailles 2003: ruby purple, full-bodied and still slightly tannic, accessable, 94p
(18) Corton Dom. Rapet 2001: early maturity, but a bit high in acidity, however excellent, 91p
(19) Corton-Rognet Dom. Mallard 1995: fully mature, but slightly dry (stems?) and rustic, 88p
(20) Corton-Bressandes Dom. Tollot-Beaut 1997: perfectly mature and really complex, very long but balanced, 94p
Groups favorites: #16 (28) #20 (17) #17 (11)

flight #5:

(21) Domaine des Terres Vignes Corton-Renards 1978: (this is the old d´Ardhuy property), a really fine mature old-fashioned Corton, great persistence, 95p
(22) Maison Moillard Corton-Clos du Roi 1976: looked first good, great colour, but was slightly corked, NR
(23) Louis Latour Corton-Clos de la Vigne au Saint 1976: very good, sweet with typical slightly dry finish of the vintage, vg food wine, 91p
(24) Louis Latour Corton Château Grancey 1964: a revelation,almost perfect, sweet, mouthfilling, intense, complex, deep and very long, textbook Corton on ist apogee, 99p
(25) Bouchard Pere & Fils Corton from the 20ies: dark „coffee“- colour, hints of oxidation, but drinkable, most probably not 100% Pinot noir, „interesting“ as an old monument, but impossible to rate …
Groups favorites: #24 (35) #21 (27)

Rosé roasted roastbeef with rosemary potatoes and truffled morel-cream-sauce

flight #6:

(26) Dom.Cachat-Ocquidant Corton-Clos des Vergennes (Monopole) 1992: this had a deep mature colour, saturated, fragrant and sweet/soft, no powerhouse, but highly enjoyable, 95p (not only for the vintage, but per se)
(27) Domaine du Clos Frantin Corton 1982: mature, sweet, very nice but a bit light due to vintage, 89p
(28) Dubreuil-Fontaine Corton-Bressandes 1990: almost mature, good grip, masculine, long, 91p
(29) Maison Faiveley Clos des Cortons Faiveley 1990: orange rim, strong leathery nose, stemmy, still grip, typical house-style, a matter of taste, 92p
(30) Maison Jadot Corton-Pougets 1993: still very dark colour, barely mature, hints of coffee, lead pencil and earth, doubtless potential, but another „strange“ 1993 … now 90p, in 10 years maybe 94p)
Groups favorites: #26 (23) #28 (15) #29 (14)

Dessert wines.

(31) Willi Schäfer Riesling Auslese „Wehlener Sonnenuhr“ 2015: very young, great balance, can be great in several more years, (eventually mid 90ies points)
(32) Golden Moscato Pale Sherry (from the 70ies): great surprise, yellow-orange colour, very sweet, but with enough acidity to balance out, very long, 96p
(33) Late bottled Vintage Port 2011 Sandeman: dark as the night, great vintage, drink now until 2050, mid-90-points

Tarte citron with Maracuja sorbet & fresh fruits

Wines of the tasting:
White: (15), (10), (13), (9)
Red: (24), (26), (21), (28)

No, we didn´t take any photos … too busy, sorry!


The next day 20 people (7 couples) met in my house for a birthday party with wines and food cooked by participants, my family and myself):
(to be continued in some days)

Thanks for the report Gerhard.

Yes, thanks for these Gerhard,

Very interesting, though I have a fair amount (for me) of both wines, only a few from these producers. Maybe the next batch, I’ll be luckier, but still good to read and good to know.

interesting–lots of lesser knowns and some I have never heard of.

I´m curious: which are the ones you´ve never heard of (except the negociants)?
Maybe only a question of missing importers …

Thanks. Very interesting, a lot of new names for me too.

Absolutely fantastic sounding!

PART 2:

The next day 21 people (7 couples) met in my house for a birthday party with wines and food cooked by participants, my family and myself – No Cortons !
(I haven´t given points to all wines …)

1st flight - starters:

(1) Champagne LANSON Magnum (mid-90ies): extremely balanced and seductive, velvety, simply great to drink
(2) Champagne Bollinger „Grande Année“ 2005: excellent, even outstanding, but a bit „unspectacular“ and soft …
(3) Sauvignon blanc „JOSEPH“ Ried Sulz 2012 – Stefan POTZINGER (Styria): very fine, still youthful, great in 5+ years

Spicey „Pizza-snakes“ with tuna fish, scampi, caviar, paprika, onions etc.

2nd flight - white:

(4) Riesling „Würtz 1“ – Reinhessen/Germany 2001: totally dry, quite strong and minerally, 91p
(5) Montrachet 1986 – Savour Club: fully mature, outstanding example … if not totally great, 93p
(6) Chassage-Montrachet „Caillerets“ 1995 Magnum – Marc Colin: very fine, more lively but less intense than (5) – 93p

Tuna fish pie with ruccola salad and Styrian pumkin oil

3rd flight white (addition of present winemaker Stefan Potzinger):

(7) Stefan Potzinger: Sauvignon blanc „Czamillonberg“ 2015 Magnum: a bit brighter and more fragrant than the „Joseph 2015“, fine!
(8) – „ - : Sauvignon blanc „JOSEPH“ Ried Sulz 2006 Magnum: the 1st magnum that Stephan opened of this wine, very fine (a good 94 points, despite not the greatest vintage)
(9) – „ - : „Leonhard“ Magnum, Gemischter Satz (mixed varieties) from old vines, a new addition to his vineyards, 1st vintage 2016: very unique character, (hints of lees), very interesting, excellent

4th flight white:

(10) Riesling Smaragd „Hollerin“ 1998 – Prager (Wachau): looked good, but was corked unfortunately
(11) Grüner Veltliner „Ried Lamm“ 1998 – Schloss Gobelsburg (Kamptal/Austria): people thought almost everything from (Chevalier-)Montrachet to Loire to Pessac-L. … and also GV – exciting wine, perfect state, the fav. of the flight – high 90ies in points
(12) Riesling „Kirchberg“ Grand Cru 1999 – Louis Sipp/Alsace: this was very good, slightly broad, but intense, 90p

Icy Brokkoli-soup with warm scampi

5th flight red:

(13) Côte-Rôtie 1996 – Domaine Jamet: very typival with lots of olives and underwood, slightly dryer on the palate than the 1997 which we had in spring, 92p
(14) Vosne-Romanée „Beaux Monts“ – Domaine Leroy 2002: deep saturated colour, accessable but barely mature, enjoyable, great potential, 94+p
(15) Châteauneuf-du-Pape „Cuvée Felix“ 2000 – Bois de Boursan: very strong, brighter than the Leroy, very intense and long, 95p

Mexican Tortillas

6th flight red:

(16) Château Chasse-Spleen (Moulis) 1975 Magnum: really classy, nothing edgy or dry about it, mouthfilling, great fun to drink, 92p
(17) Chambertin GC 1969 Magnum – Domaine Camus: realy great in Magnum, sweet, complex, deep and very long, (old Camus can be great), 97p
(18) Bandol 1982 Magnum – Château de Pibarnon: this arrived only 2 days earlier, it was still slightly cloudy, enjoyable, mature, not quite the high level of later Pibarnons 1990 and afterwards, but would have been better with more rest nevertheless … my fault.

Boeuf bourgignon with vegetables and potatoes (cooked for 3 hours)

7th flight red:

(19) Château Pontet-Canet 1957 (Pauillac): top shoulder fill, tiny hints of oxidation, but not serious, typical metallic Pauillac nose, good length, still enjoyable, old-fashioned, but was most probably never a really great wine, 87p
(20) Chateau Talbot 1982 (St.Julien): great bottle, perfectly mature, great fun, 95p
(21) Chambertin GC 1987 – Maison Bourée: very fine to drink, but not really great, 91p

Selection of French and Austrian cheese incl. mature Espoisse and Ami du Chambertin

8th flight – intermission:

(22) Champagne Jean Pernet GC Blanc de blanc: excellent
(23) Champagne Moutard – Rosé de Cuvaison: a really very nice rosé, fresh and balanced

9th flight - sweet:

(24) Riesling Auslese „Oberhäuser Brücke“ 2011 - Dönnhoff (Mosel): outstanding but young
(25) Riesling Auslese „Morstein“ 2005 – Keller: sweeter than (24), high class, early maturity
(26) Vintage Port 1955 Croft (bottled/labelled Wine Society): great old Port, 96p

Apricot cake

Final note: great food and great wines - with great friends!!!

That is a great line up of wines. Interesting names. I will be hosting a Corton rouge tasting later in the year but with younger wines. Some tell me that styles have become more accessible of late. We will see.

Awesome!

Really interesting wine lineups on both days! And what is a pizza snake??
I’m glad you had good results with your 2004 Delarche C-C. I have not had good luck aging any Delarche C-C. Their Pernand “Sous Fretille” I’ve always enjoyed young though. Thanks again for the notes!

A small pizza in shape of a snake-house - app. 3" in diameter … with different coverings in the center …

I´ve enjoyed 2002 and 2004 CC Delarche (2 ´04s left) … and absolutely no premox issues …

I deliberately eliminated everything younger than 2003 (red) from my tasting … Corton rouge needs time … even the 2001 Rapet was a bit on the young side … and the two 2003s were accessable (and even enjoyable) but quite primary …
I can imagine a 2007 (or possibly 2006) Corton rouge to be in an accessable state, but 2005, 2008-10/12 should be left closed IMHO … (2004 is another issue …).
It´s no accident that the 1992 in my tasting performed so admirably … a softer vintage absolutely in perfect maturity …

FWIW

BTW: we would have had a 2013 Corton DRC available … but looking at the price and the (presumably) primary state I decided against it …

That birthday celebration list looks great too. The '82 Talbot is among my faves for that region. Gloria is about the only one I like more from that year. The '69 Camus sounds like a little slice of heaven.

Thank you for sharing the detailed notes. Vicarious enjoyment is better than not at all. :slight_smile:

The '69 Camus was really fabulous …
and you can easily imagine who´s been there …
[cheers.gif] grouphug

Congratulations Gerhard. Still young
Impressive line ups.
Great wines in a great city [cheers.gif]

Gerhard,

Not Alan, but I cannot recall ever seeing these names in the U.S., and they were completely unfamiliar to me.

Dom.Cachat-Ocquidant
Dom. Demeure-Darnat
Domaine R.Denis

Jim,

Domaine Cachat-Ocquidant is a 10 ha property in Ladoix (maybe a reason for a certain obscurity). They own the monopoly of the Corton Clos des Vergennes 1.40 ha. I´ve tasted some Aloxe-Corton before, which was good … but never had a Corton GC before … so a great surprise.

Domaine (Henri) Darnat is in Meursault (owning the Clos Richemont, part of Le Cras), and I guess they have a negociant licence, too … they don´t own any Corton … and its written on the label “elevé and mis en bouteille par Marion et Henri Darnat” -
I have no idea where the “Demeure” comes from … but on the label is a prominent double DD …

Domaine R.Denis (a domaine in Pernand Vergelesses) was an auction purchase by accident, the bottle looked very good … and 1986 was a great white wine year … so I took it … (nothing else ever tasted)

Indeed I can. Super!

Bis bald. [cheers.gif]

Very interesting!
What is curious: the zero rate of premoxed bottles - among the 7 or 8 white wines after 1996 …

Some had reported that their %rate is at 20-40 % …
is that over-estimated?