We celebrated our 25 anniversary over three evenings, with one or two couples joining us each night.
We ate outdoors on the eve of our anniversary, at a favorite local Italian restaurant. Two couples, all close friends, joined us. I opened a bottle I’d been saving for this occasion.
1996 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut
Out of a magnum. I admit to being discouraged at the first sniffs and sips. This needed time in the glass to parade its wares. Citrus custard, green apples, chalk, plus early tertiary notes; gingerbread and toast. Ample cut and bead. While this was one of the better wines I’ve opened this year, I was slightly disappointed, arriving with towering expectations, and also drinking out of stemless rimmed restaurant glasses.
The next night, we joined another couple at their lake house. More comfort food, fine wines and great company
NV Egly-Ouriet Champagne Grand Cru Brut Rosé
This is a tremendous rosé champagne, amongst my favorites. Both vinous and energetic, with crisp red fruit including creamy strawberries and cherries, honeysuckle and rose floral notes, sandalwood. A stunner.
1996 Château Calon-Ségur
I’ve opened one of these annually for our anniversary since 2003, and this was the best by far. Double decanted several hours before serving. The grapes for this bottle must have been slipped some steroids! The nose and palate were dense with licorice, pipe tobacco and leather. Its hard tannins have finally been tamed. The wine somehow straddled a complete lack of subtlety with careless elegance. I’d guess this has entered a long apogee. I’m happy to have many more.
Last night, we celebrate our friends’ 39th anniversary on our deck. Four of us enjoyed each other’s company, beautiful weather and sunset, delicious fish, fresh corn salad, fresh cranberry beans, and more.
1996 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon
Worth the wait; I bought this 16 years ago.
I had high expectations, and we weren’t disappointed. Power and grace, with great complexity and balance. Lemon and sweet orange, yellow apples, jasmine, and a great whiff of brioche. This is wearing its 25 years well, with faint cider, coffee and hazelnut notes only adding to the complexity. This was a great bottle.
1982 Fontanafredda Barolo Lazzarito Vigna la Delizia
Carefully decanted clear of sediment, using a decanting stand. After two hours, poured back into cleaned bottle, which sat open for about six hours.
The preparation paid off; this showed well. The color was stunning; light and translucent enough to be mistaken for rosé. More pink and ruby than amber. The nose was more geriatric than the palate, showing dense tar, rubber, earth and mushrooms, but gaining dark berry fruit with time in the glass. The palate was a pleasing mixture of secondary and tertiary, with much more fruit than the initial sniff promised. The unami and lightness made for a surprising perfect pairing with Nobu Black Cod. A joyous way to celebrate our friends’ 39th anniversary.
Cheers,
Warren
