A tasting that I’ve been wanting to do for a while now. '20 vintage was my first experience with these wines. I had heard about Max because I’ve been following, buying, drinking Julian Haart’s wines for many years. I did a blind side by side of the '20 Goldtropfchen Kabinetts from both Haart and Kilburg and I just loved how hard it was to make a decision about who did it better.
Both my excitement for the vintage and excitement for the producer had had me thinking about doing this horizontal since I received these wines in April and I’m glad I’m finally able to write them up.
2021 Geierslay Kabinett - bright apples, underripe apricot, slate-y undertones and that electric acidity. Seemed like there was a lot there but wasn’t showing as much initially. Really a solid performer that I probably would have loved more had it not been drunk by its siblings.
2021 Goldtropfchen Kabinett - the fruit really pops out of the glass. The warmer site shows here with more intense white peach, nectarine, tangerine aromas with a hint of orange blossoms. Acidity is still there and keep it all lively but this is such a delicious fruit bowl of a wine. On the palate it’s got the sugar to pop the fruit but due to the acidity really tastes more like a Feinherb than a Kabinett although I’m sure on the objective numbers there sugar is there. Really fantastic and delicious.
2021 Ohligsberg Kabinett - I think this was the group’s consensus favorite. The fruit is a bit cooler here, with more white peace, sherbert, and pear but only a notch lower intensity than the Goldtrofchen. However it makes up for it with a streaking minerality on the nose and slight smokyness. On the palate as well it has a slight verbena or shiso herbality that really makes for an intriguing wine. Such a pleasure to drink.
These wines are delicious and worth the price. Not to give Robert any ideas but they may even be undervalued. I’m sure Max is really proud of what he’s accomplished here.
Great notes & thanks for sharing them! I loved all three, each were stunning & delicious. Adding my notes to the thread:
Ohligsberg was the most impressive for sure. Intensity turned to 11, tart & zippy, mineral finish with so much complexity.
Goldtropfchen had nectarine & lemon curd fruitiness that was enchanting and if I were to pop one for my non wine geeky fam, this would be the one I know they would enjoy the most and probably the most wide appealing.
Geierslay felt like a drink anytime, anywhere, with anything kabinett. Refreshing acidity & classic pear & lime notes.
Grateful to have tasted thru this flight @Daniel_Kim !
Wonderful tasting. We need more young, hardworking, passionate winemakers in the Mosel, like Max.
21 Geierslay served by the glass here at St Peter restaurant (Sydney). Seems sweet for a Kabinett, but I can definitely see the appeal!
Having it with an amazing charcuterie made sole of fish; John Dory liver pate, Murray cod chorizo, yellowfin tuna njuda and salami, striped marlin prosciutto, flat rock head mortadella. Off the charts good and great pairing.
I really enjoyed the ‘21 Goldtröpfchen Kabinett and especially the ‘21 Ohligsberg Kabinett. Absolute bargains.
Whilst there’s a bit of info floating around, and some tasting notes, about the Kabinetts, there less about the Trockens and almost nothing (apart from a comment 4-5 years ago) about his Spätleses.
@Robert_Dentice or @Russell_Faulkner - is there any lay-of-the-land overview you might be able to give us about the relative production of each, or any other info you could share? Most interested in the 2021s!
Hi, sorry I haven’t asked about production levels - I never do really. I’m pretty sure there just a tank of each Trocken though. I’m visiting next month (to pick up the 22 Trockens) so will try to ask. I know Max favours a long time in tank for them as he bottles later than most GGs.
Max Kilburg took over the Geierslay Estate which is his family estate around 2014. The estate has a long history in the Mosel. He debuted his own wine under the Max Kilburg label in 2016. Along the way he worked with and was mentored by Julian Haart. We import and sell them at source | material. Of all the great new / younger producers we have introduced to the U.S. Max is #1 in interest, re-offers, etc. All of his offers sell out immediately. Every time I bring them to a wine dinner including a Julian Haart dinner with all of the Haart white labels I make immediate fans. I also don’t know his productions numbers but it is small.
He is also making a pinot that we will be offering soon.
I also know his fame is spreading around the world as I get DMs from all over the world about him.
Thanks very much for your replies @Robert_Dentice and @Russell_Faulkner. Do you have a feel for why the discussion on here has mostly been around his Kabinetts and less about the trockens and Spatleses?
For example Robert, from you posts on here it looks like you’ve offered ‘20 Kabinetts, ‘21 Kabinetts and ‘22 Trockens.
Well the estate is still run in parallel with his own label wines (don’t buy the Geierslay wines expecting Max’s signature to be all over them).
I think Max started with the 15s Robert? Well I’m pretty sure I have some 15 still but could be wrong. I know I have some 17 Spatburgunder too.
He is farming just 1.2 hectares in total for his label. So just not a lot of the Spatlese around. And I think there is more overall interest in dry and Kabinett these days.
That’s helpful, thanks guys. Fortunately for me Max is still flying under the radar in Australia so have been able to fill up with basically as much as I’ve wanted of the Kabinetts and Spatleses.
Sooo, was minding my own business on Instagram and saw this tasting of 2023 Max Kilburgs on the Concept Riesling page. Two new Kabis coming @Robert_Dentice???
I asked Max. These have previously been part of the Geierslay Kabi but he’s considering bottling separately. Not decided yet.
Looks like my trip next month won’t make it to Germany.