This was shockingly great! I continue to be be fascinated with the PJK wines. Some I love, some I don’t, but all are intriguing. This is an entry-level blend that retails for $20. It was so electric, high acid, and just a wonderful pleasure to drink that enlivened all of the senses!
Which PJK wines do you love/not love? I only have experience with Jacobus and Quarzit and really like both. They are a bit hard to find sometimes (I know Weygandt brings them in). Jacobus is actually my go-to Riesling to bring to a party when in Germany. People who drink Riesling usually are pretty happy I brought it.
PJK GGs are usually raised in oak and go through full malo. It wouldn’t be surprising if those aren’t to Robert’s liking knowing his preferences in Riesling. I think the ‘lesser’ cuvées see more steel and less malo.
Here’s my note on a ‘14 Doosberg I had a few months back:
Restaurant purchase. Peter Jakob Kühn makes some really idiosyncratic Rieslings. This spent two years in a large wooden vat on the lees and allowed to go through malolactic completely.
The result is a dense, rich, and concentrated wine. Filled with peach and tropical fruit characters (pineapple and mango). On the palate while that concentration comes through, the structure still feels a bit rounded. There’s a distinctive creaminess to it from extended lees contact and malo with a round and softer acid edge. Some petrol-filled smoky and salty finish. It felt like it was missing something, je se ne quoi.
Took the remaining 1/3 of the bottle back home and consumed the rest about an hour later from a Grasl Cru. The fruit appeared to recede a bit on the nose to make way for a captivating mix of sweet and delicate white aromatic flowers: mock orange, aztec pearl, osmanthus burkwoodii, but on the palate it felt much the same as before.
Aromatically, it’s lovely, especially from the Grassl (what a difference the stem made), but on the palate it seems to fall short for my tastes. Clearly well made and with intention. There’s concentration, complexity, depth, but I think the combination of richness from the lees and wooden vat and the rounder, softer acid feel from the malolactic makes this feel like a wine that speaks more to winemaking than a sense of place. AP 08 16
Closure: natural cork
Decant: 90min at restaurant // 3h in when tasted at home
Stem: non-descript white wine glass; later Grassl Cru
Assemblage: two years on lees in a large wooden vat, full malo.
Thanks Rodrigo for the note. Idiosyncratic is an apt descriptor. I do find them intriguing though and enjoying continuing to experiment with them. You are probably onto something with the oak treatment.