2016 Fratelli Alessandria Langhe Nebbiolo Prinsiot- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
La Terazza da Renza is a great spot, with sweeping views over Serralunga d’Alba vineyards, to enjoy lunch on a sunny day. The food is excellent: simple, honest, typical Piemontese fare. To accompany lunch we chose well with the Fratelli Alessandria Langhe Nebbiolo from the decent wine list … Pale ruby colour. A fruity nose of strawberries, raspberries, cranberries and a little spice. Sweet seeming entry to the palate. Sweetish, gentle tannins but it is bone dry. Refreshing acidity. Delicate, below medium bodied. Flavour profile in the red fruit spectrum with strawberries and tart red cherries prominent. Good at this level. Drink over the next few years.
Azienda Agricola Elvio Cogno is one of my favourite Piemontese producers and I rate their top Barolo – the Vigna Elena – one of the best in all Piemonte.
In total, Cogno has 15 ha under vine, 13 ha clustered around the winery in Ravera.
Cogno typically produces four distinct expressions of Ravera Barolo each year:
Cascina Nuova: from 2.5 ha of young vines at 380 metres above sea level. It sees 24 months in large Slavonian oak barrels and six months in bottle.
Ravera: from 4.88 ha of Lampia and Michet Nebbiolo sub-varieties at 380 metres. Vines planted in 1961 and 1970 on limestone, clay and sand. The Ravera has 24 months in 25-30 hl Slavonian oak barrels and six months in bottle.
Bricco Pernice: from 2 ha of older Lampia vines at 320 metres. Two of the three land parcels that make up Bricco Pernice are planted with twenty five year old vines, while the third has an average age of fifty years. There is a limestone, calcareous soil, with less sand than in the other hill of the Ravera cru. It sees 30 months in 25-30 hl Slavonian oak barrels and 18 months in bottle.
Vigna Elena: from 1 ha of Rosé clone vines at 380 metres. Vines an average of around 30 years of age. Limestone, clay and sandy soil. It receives 36 months in 40 hl Slavonian oak barrels and two years in bottle. The first year of this Cru was 1997. Only made in what Cogno considers to be a great vintage.
The Bricco Pernice vineyard is off on its own to the north of the winery (or the left of the winery entrance), while the other three vineyards are scattered to the south (or right), generally toward the village of Novello.
Cogno also produces a very interesting – and very good – Pre-Phylloxera Barbera d’Alba. The vines – at 520 metres above sea level – are over 100 years old. Unfortunately, we were not able to taste this wine on our visit.
For the Barolos, Cogno uses both pumping over and submerged cap for post-fermentation macerations. For the Vigna Elena this is typically 30 days and can be up to 40 days.
There was no 2014 Cascina Nuova made.
After we had tasted through the current Cogno line-up in bottle there was a discussion in our group about the merits of the Vigna Elena vis-à-vis the Bricco Pernice as Barolos. To give us a fair comparison, Valter headed down to the cellar and returned with pitchers of those two wines from the 2014 vintage to compare with our 2014 Ravera. That put the issue beyond any dispute …
We began with a bottle tasting:
2017 Azienda Agricola Elvio Cogno Langhe Nascetta Anas-Cetta- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
100% Nascetta di Novello from vineyards located on the top of the hill near the Novello village. A native grape of the area. The wine sees no oak, only stainless steel, but it has long lees contact, Valter noted. Golden coloured. Aromatic: baking spices, pears, apricots, honeysuckle, sage and rosemary. Refreshing, although, as Valter said, it is the product of a lower acid vintage. Viscous and tactile. Grapefruit and lemon. A little honeyed. I liked the bitter herbs element. A moderately long, saline finish. An interesting wine.
2017 Azienda Agricola Elvio Cogno Dolcetto d’Alba Vigna del Mandorlo- Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Dolcetto d’Alba
Bright violet colour. On bouquet, lively blackberry, blackcurrant and blueberry nuances, suggesting fruit sweetness. A sweet, powerful entry. Sleek, suave tannins. Blackberry, dark cherry, liquorice, cassis and dried lavendar. A nice wine for early drinking, in the next year or three.
2017 Azienda Agricola Elvio Cogno Langhe Montegrilli- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
All stainless steel for this wine, no oak. Light ruby colour. Perfumes of strawberries, raspberries and spices with soil undertones. Again, a sweet-seeming entry to the palate, followed by lively acidity. Generally refined tannins but with some grip on the back palate. Pure red fruit – particularly sour cherry and raspberry – at its core. The wine could be seen as a little rustic but no more than is acceptable at this level, I thought. It calls for food. A nice little wine that reminded me, for some reason, of the Vajra equivalent.
2016 Azienda Agricola Elvio Cogno Barbera d’Alba Bricco dei Merli- Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d’Alba
Deep, opaque colour. On bouquet, kirsch, new leather, cherries under spirit and milk chocolate with a lick of vanillin oak. In the mouth, bright and vibrant fruit. Good acidity. Packed with ripe fruit. Blackberries and dark cherries but also with notes of mushroom and truffle. Juicy with hints of blood orange. Seamless, well integrated tannins. Another wine sample I enjoyed.
2015 Azienda Agricola Elvio Cogno Barbaresco Bordini- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
A Cru from Neive. Vines around 30 years of age on calcareous soil. Maceration 30 days here. Ruby with a little ochre colour. A contrast between the exuberance of the bouquet and the austerity of the palate. A complex, perfumed nose, leaping out of the glass. Red cherries, soil, clove, a little plum, black pepper, spices and dried flowers. In the mouth, quite strict and precise. Elegant, not large scaled. Good refreshing acidity. A good food wine.
2014 Azienda Agricola Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Now the tasting got more serious … After a little reduction on opening, a lovely nose of morello cherries, red currants, minerals and spices, with dried leaves and a touch of menthol (“a typical Ravera note”, said Valter). On palate, a very vertical wine. Precise, linear and mineral. Darker berried than the nose suggested. Intense fruit. Flavours well layered. Thierry worried about the compression and earthiness of the Ravera but I did not see a major issue. Underneath its silky exterior, it is not lacking in dry extract or power. It is approachable enough to drink now but you should give it at least 3+ years. Valter is confident it will cellar 10-20 years, easily. Returning to it again later in the tasting, with the other two 2014 Barolos beside it, Valter called his 2014 Ravera “my Chambolle-Musigny”, which seemed an apt analogy. Very good.
2013 Azienda Agricola Elvio Cogno Barolo Bricco Pernice- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
A big step up from the 2014 Ravera. Complex aromatics of juicy red berries, red cherries, espresso, dark chocolate and tobacco, with a gentle top note of violets. A more classical Barolo after the more Pinot-like Ravera. Bright, ripe, juicy berry fruit. Serious mid palate fruit weight and power. The Bricco Pernice coats the palate. It was pretty closed with an austere, iron-like core. There are chewy tannins on the long finish. Very 2013. Excellent! It needs 7-10+ more years in the cellar, I’d think.
2012 Azienda Agricola Elvio Cogno Barolo Riserva Vigna Elena- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Made from 100% 27 year old Nebbiolo Rosé clone (Valter noted that it ripens about 10 days later than his two other clones). “The clone difference is major”, said Valter, “as well as the vintage”. A much lighter colour than the Bricco Pernice. Also, a more pungent bouquet. Perfumes, spices, red liquorice, and red berries, with a touch of citrus. On palate, clean, fresh or very intense. Also, very elegant and but it expands across the palate, growing in power. Very long. Very good but I expect I will ultimately prefer the 2014 and 2013 Vigna Elenas.
2014 Azienda Agricola Elvio Cogno Barolo Bricco Pernice- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
From tank. Bright ruby colour. A real contrast with the 2013 Bricco Pernice. In very different style but of similar quality, in my opinion. A much lighter, more lifted nose of red and black cherries, minerals and rose perfumes. Noticeably less spice. Also more elegant on palate than the 2013. I thought of Chambolle-Musigny Pinot Noir. Complex with rich red fruit – particularly red cherries and red plums – minerals and soil. Much finer, more spherical tannins than the 2013. Because it is so seamless and sleek you might miss the structure and serious fruit volume here. Very good length. “A Bonnes Mares character”, stated Valter, which seemed appropriate.
2014 Azienda Agricola Elvio Cogno Barolo Riserva Vigna Elena- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
From tank. “This is the best wine in the cellar”, said Valter proudly. Pale ruby colour with orange tinges. Complex, subtle, ethereal, beautiful aromatics. Spicy and very floral. Also, detailed and layered on palate. Elegance, purity and power. Ultra-fine grained tannins. Silky smooth mouthfeel. Not lacking in depth, volume or power. Excellent length. “My Gevrey-Chambertin”, said Valter. My wine of the tasting and one of the best wines of the trip. Valter said that he was bottling his 2014 Elena at present. For release in 2020.
We returned to Barbaresco for a quick tasting before dinner with Jeffrey Chilcott at Marchesi di Grésy.
Jeffrey is a Kiwi who has lived for more than 30 years in Piemonte. He’s also a great guy and an excellent host for a tasting or a dinner.
Marchesi di Grésy has a monopole vineyard - Martinenga - on the ‘Grand Cru’ hill in Barbaresco, at 280 metres above sea level. Vigna Camp Gros (the “s” is pronounced) is on the right of the winery (below Rabajà) and has a southwest exposure. Vigna Gaiun is on the left, below Asili, and is direct south. The Camp Gros is aged largely in Slavonian 12.5HL oak casks, while the Gauin is aged in French barriques (around one-third new).
2015 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Martinenga- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Bottled in May 2018. New oak barrels 30%. Nice aromatics, perfumed. Lots of spicy red fruit. Sweet seeming tannins. Juicy fruit. “Fresher than the 2011s”, Thierry observed. “Just a Bambina”, said Jeffrey. A difficult wine to evaluate, this early.
2014 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Martinenga- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
An attractive 2014 Pinot-like bouquet of red cherries and other red fruit and florals. Vibrant, rich fruit on the palate. Medium bodied. “Putting on a bit of weight now”, said Jeffrey, “it’s self-confident”. Precise and focused. Crunchy cherry and raspberry fruit, with gravelly minerals. Presently, looking much better than the 2015.
2013 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Martinenga- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
A ‘deeper’ seeming nose of dark fruit and menthol, with lifted floral and spicy aromas. A very attractive bouquet suggesting both dark rose and violet perfumes. On palate, the best of the three Martinengas. Succulent, ripe and opulent fruit. More volume and power than the other two Barbarescos. Nice fresh acidity. Nonetheless, a young, tightly coiled wine, needing another 3-5 years, I’d say.
2013 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Martinenga Gaiun- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
A classy wine and a step up from the previous Martinengas. On bouquet, first melted road tar, then soil, spices, black cherry and menthol, finishing on a hint of orange zest. In the mouth, fresh and bright. Deep and concentrated, showing good, ripe fruit. Plenty of volume and power. It finishes on slightly bitter tannins, this Barolo will need a few years cellar time (5+ years?).
2012 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Riserva Martinenga Camp Gros- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Since 2010, the Camp Gros has been made as Marchesi di Grésy’s only Riserva. Made traditionally in large, neutral botti. A vibrant ruby colour. An attractive bouquet of black cherries and dark plums, earth and wet brushwood. Also, on palate, earth tones with blackberries and dark cherries. Bright fruit with serious weight and power. Very good. Wine of the tasting. Ideally, it needs 3-4 more years.
2009 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Martinenga- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Served blind by Jeffrey. An interesting, developed, complex nose of Campari, liquorice, aniseed and dark fruit. Somewhat medicinal (as a positive descriptor). That evolved character carried through to the palate, expressed as dried leaf, tobacco and game meat nuances. Fleshy, generous fruit and seamless. Very good. “The Martinenga presently drinking the best”, noted Jeffrey.
2005 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Martinenga Gaiun- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Elevated fresh dark cherry and blackcurrant notes on bouquet with a hint of volatile acidity. Also creosote and dark spices. Compared to the primary-seeming bouquet, more development evident on palate. Tarry, leathery and earthy with some porcini and fresh and dried black fruit. Refreshing acidity well aligned with the fruit. Some oak yet to fully integrate though.
Osteria taStè is a cool new place in Barbaresco with a great menu. Their pannacotta with sorbet dessert is superb and one of the best in all of Piemonte, I am reliably informed. The Osteria is an old school house that the owners have tastefully renovated as a chic, modern restaurant. We brought to dinner some wines including three older Barbarescos we had picked up around Piemonte …
2011 Rizzi Pas Dosé Metodo Classico- Italy
A favourite local sparkling Chardonnay blend of Jeffrey’s. Zero dosage, I understand. Fresh lemon, vanilla and lemon custard with banana on the nose. Dry, minerally, citric and light to drink, with a flavour profile reminding me of a lemon meringue pie (not as sweet though, obviously). Frothy with vibrant acidity.
2000 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Langhe Sauvignon Blanc- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
Served blind by Jeffrey. An unusual bouquet I could not place. Herbal infusion or camomile, I thought. “Glazed Christmas leg of lamb”, said Thierry. On palate, dried herbs with limes and oranges and also candied citrus fruit. It put me in mind of cold herbal tea and reminded Andrew of Asian sweet and sour cooking. Clearly an evolved wine, I guessed a vintage of 1998. We were all surprised by the grape variety and how this wine had developed. Marchesi di Grésy’s oldest Sauvignon Blanc vines were planted in 1988. It paired well with my excellent Porcini Tajarin.
1998 Giuseppe Cortese Barbaresco Rabajà- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Browning colour. A bouquet of orange peel and lemon, mushrooms, peaty earth, lots of old leather and dried redcurrants and plums. On palate, the fruit had slipped a little, over-exposing the acidity. This bottle beginning its downward slide from its drinking plateau, but nonetheless enjoyable as a mature, savoury Barbaresco. No longer showing the vivid red fruit of a typical younger Rabajà, here it was fig, old leather, black truffle, porcini, dried herbs, earth and dried red fruit. “More Barolo than Barbaresco”, said Jeffrey. Again, it showed at its best with my Tajarin. Drink soon.
1982 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
We bought this bottle on the basis of its good colour. It proved pretty sound. The bouquet dominated by citrus, I thought grapefruit. Also, damp soil, porcini, cigar, sweet smoke and dried red fruit. On palate, an evolved, honest and humble wine. The flavour profile was mushroom, earth, balsamico, preserved red fruit and tobacco. It paired very well with my rabbit main course. I agreed with Thierry in preferring this Produttori over the Cortese and in his saying “this is not better than the 1974 Produttori Normale we had on our last trip”. I did however prefer this 1982 over the 1978 Produttori Normale we drank earlier on this trip. Excellent!
1968 Boffa Carlo Barbaresco- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
We were given this bottle by a friend and, to be honest, I did not hold out great hopes for it. But I was surprised by the pleasure that was still to be found in this modest, 50 year old bottling. Bronze colour with (surprisingly) no sediment. An endearing, fragile bouquet. “A fragrant red fruit character”, said Thierry. Or “strawberries in the forest”, as someone said. Also, lots of citrus (“blood orange” was Jeffrey’s descriptor). In the mouth, to be honest, the fruit had slipped quite a way, making the acids over-prominent. However, it was, I thought, an amazing wine. Fresh, the wine was still very much alive. Like the Produttori, it was a simple, honest and humble wine (I didn’t see the evidence of any overt ‘winemaking’ here). Very evolved. Earthy with tobacco, fallen autumn leaves, dried porcini and dried red fruit.
For our last day in Piemonte, we headed to the hilltop village of Verduno, on the edge of the Barolo zone. It was a village we were keen for a deep dive into, to get to know the wines better.
We began in Fratelli Alessandria with a tasting with Vittore Alessandria. Fratelli Alessandria is a historic winery in an 18th century house. The Fratelli Alessandria house was established in 1870 and has been in the Alessandria family ever since.
They produce about 90,000 bottles each year and have around 13 ha of vineyards in Verduno and another 2 ha in Monforte d’Alba. Vittore said that the house “respects terroir – we look for elegance, grace and spiciness”.
Their barrels are mainly Slavonian and French large format (20-40 HL) casks. The botti are replaced after 20-25 years to give an average age at all times of around 10-12 years.
Unfortunately, Vittore had sold out of his Monvigliero and Gramolere and we were not able to taste these Cru. Still, the visit cemented in my mind Fratelli Alessandria as a winery to continue to follow.
2017 Fratelli Alessandria Verduno Pelaverga Speziale- Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Verduno Pelaverga
Made from the Pelaverga Piccolo grape. Some of the Pelaverga vines here are 35 years old but the average vine age is more like 14-18 years, said Vittore. Made only in stainless steel. A bright but pale strawberry colour. An attractive bouquet of spicy strawberries and raspberries, with some gentle florals. In the mouth, silky, soft and gentle but with persistent, refreshing acidity. It seems to drink lighter than it really is (if that makes sense!). The alcohol – at 14% - also surprised on the upside. Well balanced. The second best Pelaverga we had on the day (after the GB Burlotto version). A great wine for a summer’s picnic or barbeque. “Drink young, in 2-3 years”, advised Vittore. However, I thought – with this tannic and acid structure – that it might be possible to age this wine.
2016 Fratelli Alessandria Langhe Nebbiolo Prinsiot- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
This is the same wine we had at lunch yesterday and my impressions were similar. It had 10 month’s élevage in big botti. A bright, light coloured red. Raspberries and red cherries, with a touch of strawberry and some spice on the bouquet. A light bodied red wine crammed full of red cherry and red berry flavours. Not tannic. A refreshing wine to accompany a lunch of salami and prosciutto. 10,000 bottles made.
2013 Fratelli Alessandria Barolo- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
In the Normale, the grapes come from vines with an average age of 25 years. Twenty five days maceration here with three years in cask and two years in bottle. A lovely bouquet of rose perfumes, incense, raspberries and red cherries, spices and a little cranberry juice. On palate, surprisingly approachable. Elegant. Well proportioned and refined. Quite delicate. Mineral. A little Pinot-like. However, it did, with time, fill out in the glass, which I’d expect more of if it is given cellar time. Typically, the longevity of the Normale is expected at the winery to be 7-14 years. Vittore said, for him personally, with this Barolo that he “likes some fruit with my wines, and I like to drink this Barolo on release”. A very good entry level Barolo.
2013 Fratelli Alessandria Barolo San Lorenzo- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
An impressive Cru Barolo. Made since 1997, from an 0.8 ha south facing vineyard at 250 metres above sea level. Vines with an average age of about 30 years on a calcareous and limestone soil. Typically about 4,000 bottles made per vintage. Again, it had 25 days on skins. After the Normale, a more powerful bouquet of red currants, red cherries, cassis and kirsch, cumin and cardamom. “Vosne-Romanee spice”, said Andrew. Sweet, polished tannins. Drinking silkily and relatively accessibly but, compared with the Normale, having much more volume and stuffing. Pure, clean and precise with plenty of minerality. A much more complex, multi-layered wine than the Normale. Typically, at the winery, the longevity of the San Lorenzo is expected to be 15-25 years. I’d guess it needs 5-8+ years more cellar time before you’d want to think about opening a bottle. However, I would not put the San Lorenzo in the category of some of the ‘immortal’ 2013s that we have had on this trip, that will need materially longer in the cellar.
2014 Fratelli Alessandria Barolo- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
A breezy, Pinot-like bouquet of spicy red berries and cherries with orange peel, dried herbs and cinnamon. On palate, lighter, more ethereal and finer than the 2013 Normale. Lively acidity. Very 2014 Barolo. Silky, refined tannins. Very approachable now but I’m sure it’d improve with cellar time. I slightly preferred the 2013.
We had time between tastings for a leisurely lunch. We had a delicious lunch at Trattoria dai Bercau where we were also able to sample a couple more of the local Pelavergas. I had an excellent antipasto followed by a decent tajarin with black truffle. We all finished with the Trattoria’s brilliant pannacotta. This was followed by a lively debate of where Bercau’s version fits into the pantheon of the best Piemontese panacottas (the consensus: pretty high up).
2017 Bel Colle Favorita- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
We started with a bianco. This wine is a local version of Vermentino. I doubted it had seen any oak. After some reduction on opening, there were aromas of pears, minerals and citrus fruit, with suggestions of tide pool. On palate, the light bodied wine showed lively acidity. Lemons, limes and grapefruit finishing on some minerality and salinity. A nice, basic thirst quencher.
2017 Bel Colle Verduno Pelaverga- Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Verduno Pelaverga
Served slightly chilled as was appropriate for a warm day. Bright, relatively dark red. Raspberries and cranberries on the nose with a hint of citrus. On palate, obviously a step below the Alessandria. Seeming to me a little confected. One of our group summarised it well, I thought, saying “it’s cleaner and tighter but a bit more boring” than the Alessandria. Still, an adequate, inexpensive lunch wine.
2017 Andrea Burlotto & Figli Langhe Pelaverga Cascina Massara- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
Labelled as Cascina Massara – Giancarlo Burlotto. I preferred the Burlotto over the Bel Colle. It seemed a very traditionally made – not messed around with - Pelaverga. It was also closer in quality to the Alessandria, I thought. Also served chilled. Darker, richer fruit on the bouquet: blackcurrants and plums, with spices and herbs. On entry to the palate, racy acidity. Good minerality. Smooth, silky tannins. A lighter bodied wine. The 14.5% alcohol on the label came as a real surprise (I would have guessed much lower).
Next we walked to the historic castle at the top of Verduno. The Castello di Verduno, owned by Gabriella Burlotto and Franco Bianco, is a beautiful old building (we got a tour of the genteel, slightly faded hotel next door).
The Castello di Verduno wine operates through two cellars, one under the castle and the other near Rabajà, in Barbaresco. Wines are produced in Barbaresco and bottled and stored in Verduno. The vineyards owned by Castello di Verduno are the Barbaresco Crus of Faset and Rabajà and the Barolo Crus of Monvigliero and Massara.
We toured the historic wine cellar below the castle (the oldest bottle is from 1913) before a bottle tasting …
2016 Castello di Verduno Verduno Pelaverga Basadone- Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Verduno Pelaverga
Pelaverga Piccolo grape. Bright ruby. Perfumed with notes of raspberry, red cherry and red plum. Elegant and light, showing Pelaverga typicity. Polished red and black cherry. Good precise acidity. Easy, fresh and ripe with a little balsamic and coffee complexity. I rated it just a little below the Fratelli Alessandria Pelaverga.
2013 Castello di Verduno Barbaresco- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Grapes from Faset, Rabajà-bas and Rabajà. Élevage was one year in large botti and one year in bottle. An attractive bouquet of cardamom, peppercorn, dry bush, red berries and florals. Clean and refined. Intense. Not lacking in power and back palate grip. Good.
2015 Castello di Verduno Barbaresco Rabajà-bas- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
The 2015 is the house’s first release of a Rabajà-bas. Again, one year in large botti and one year in bottle. A step up on the 2013 Normale. An ethereal, intense, fine nose. Dark fruited, showing balsamico and smoky barbequed meats. On palate, very fruit forward. Dark cherries and blackberries. However, it pulls up a little short. One of our group noted that “the fruit is bigger than the tannin structure”. Perhaps it’ll improve with more time in the cellar. Still, presently decent Cru.
2014 Castello di Verduno Barolo- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Grapes from all of Castello di Verduno’s Barolo sites. Two years in large botti and one year in bottle. A perfumed, aromatic nose with dark berries, minerals and chalk. In the mouth, silky with fine grained tannins. Black fruited and mineral. Better length than the Rabajà-bas. A good, regular bottling.
2012 Castello di Verduno Barolo Riserva Monvigliero- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
A big step up to the star of the tasting. To be released in early 2019. Maceration for 30-40 days, three years in botti and three years in bottle. A complex, detailed bouquet of blackberries, balsamico, dark spices, earth, espresso and wet granite. On palate, sleek and sexy. Fine and finessed. Dark fruited and powerful. Serious structure lurking beneath the surface. Spherical tannins. It expands on the back palate. Major grip on the long finish.
It is appropriate that our last winery visit in Piemonte on this trip was to GB Burlotto. GB Burlotto is a favourite producer, and was a “must visit”, for all in our group.
We began our visit with a quick tour of the historic, old winery. First, winemaker Fabio Alessandria showed us his open top fermenters. We got onto the topic of weather and recent vintages. He said, Verduno being a higher, more marginal Barolo area, “recent global warming has been great for GB Burlotto”. He noted the “wet spring this year [2018]”, where he had to spray for mildew.
Fabio said that his Monvigliero and Dolcetto grapes are the only ones where he does 100% whole bunch. Other grapes are 100% destemmed. Typical times for macerations in the winery are usually between 14 and 22 days. The exception is the Monvigliero, where maceration is “much longer”, up to two months.
Fabio pumps over and punches down for all of his wines except for the Monvigliero where the handling is “very gentle”, being submerged cap only, after the famous foot-treading.
Fabio next showed us his cellar from the 1700s and talked about his famous great-great-grandfather GB Burlotto (1850-1927). Fabio continues to use traditional, large format casks.
The estate is also effectively organic but is not certified. Fabio is a non-interventionist, trying to make his wines as naturally as possible.
Fabio talked about some of his recent Barolo vintages:
2013 and 2014: “Both vintages are in the same family. They are both cooler vintages. They have similar alcohol levels. However, 2013 is more complete”, said Fabio. In 2014, there was no Barolo Acclivi.
“2015 is a very different vintage to 2013 or 2014, bigger and riper”.
2016 and 2017: there will be Acclivi in both vintages. In the cellar, Fabio pointed at two of his botti and said that the 2017 Monvigliero was a low yield and that those botti are the full 2017 vintage.
We tasted in bottle:
2017 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Langhe Sauvignon Blanc Viridis- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
The sauvignon blanc is made in stainless steel only. Fabio mentioned that GB Burlotto’s sauvignon blanc vines were planted in 1986 (Jeff noted that Marchesi’s were planted in 1988). A generous nose of gooseberry, passionfruit and pineapple but also herbs, wet river boulder and a little cut hay. On palate, fresh, bright passionfruit. “This wine can age” said Fabio because it is “alive and sapido [having a strong, pleasant taste], due to the chalky soil”. Showing more acidity and rocky minerality, and less herbaceousness, than a classic Marlborough NZ sauvignon blanc. Fabio agreed with this comment, pointing to the dryness of his sauvignon. A sauvignon I liked very much.
2017 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Verduno Pelaverga- Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Verduno Pelaverga
Recently bottled. 20,000 bottles. Vivid ruby colour. A fresh, breezy nose. Perfumed with notes of blackcurrant, wild blackberry and even some blueberry, with florals. “Carnations”, said Thierry. On palate, pure and clean, with that intense wild berry element. Persistent acidity. “Wild strawberries and herbs”, said Fabio. Head and shoulders the best Pelaverga tasted today.
2016 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barbera d’Alba Aves- Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d’Alba
Deep, dark colour. A serious bouquet of blackcurrants, black liquorice, dark plum, crème de cassis, chalky minerals and a little musk. On palate, very rich and ripe, yet quite precise. Good fruit volume on the mid and back palate. “Super generous”, said Luca. Fruit well balanced by acidity. Lovely, satiny mouthfeel.
2016 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Langhe Freisa- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
Ten days on skins for the 2016. Vivid maroon colour. An exuberant, slightly feral bouquet of wild berries, fresh and dried herbs, bloody, smoky barbequed venison, dark chocolate and black fruit. Very intense and powerful in the mouth. Seamless, not all rustic, I thought. In proportion and balance. Fresh acidity. An excellent Freisa. “This Freisa will age”, said Fabio. Referring to the common genealogy with Nebbiolo, Fabio stated: “Freisa is the country cousin, Nebbiolo is the city cousin”, which I thought was a little tough given the quality of his Freisa! Jeff and Fabio then proceeded to try to list all the Piemontese Freisa producers (concluding there were something like 9-11 such producers).
2014 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Just Verduno fruit. Intense ruby colour. Classic 2014 Barolo aromatics with red and black cherries, lifted floral notes and touches of orange peel and spice. A Pinot-like flavour profile but with a different fruit weight and tannin structure. Suave, smooth tannins. Focussed, driven acidity. Mainly dark cherry and black plums on palate with flecks of chalky minerality. “A great expression of Verduno”, said Luca. Normally some surplus Monvigliero fruit goes into the Acclivi. In 2014 no Acclivi was made, so that fruit is here. Very good, at this level.
2014 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Vines averaging 45 years of age. Fabio noted that the Monvigliero soil (“white soil”) was similar to the Brunate and Cerequio soils in La Morra. This is different to Cannubi, where there is more sand. A beautiful bouquet: berry compote, rosehip and violet perfumes, dried herbs, earth and slightly charred, smoky venison. On the palate, pure and beautifully balanced. Virtually the complete package in terms of fruit, acids, structure and tannins. “Lightness and power, a great first entry”, said Thierry while Andrew described it as “Monfortino level” (however, I’d put it slightly behind the 2014 Monfortino we tasted). Very 2014, a lighter expression. Yet surgically precise, polished and powerful. Very long. To me, not far behind the brilliant 2013 Monvigliero in quality. One of the best wines tasted on the trip. Accessible at the time of tasting but ideally hold for 5-8+ years.
2014 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Cannubi- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
As earlier, Fabio noted the higher proportion of sand in the soil here, as compared with the “white soil” of Monvigliero. From a 0.7 ha vineyard. Less aromatically thrilling than the Monvigliero, more closed. Black fruit, dark florals, earth and black spices. On palate, more separate component parts yet to come together. Quite fresh but a little clunky. Someone described the Cannubi as a “light expression of heavy Barolo fruit”, which seemed to capture it. Presently hard to assess at the time of tasting. It needs time. Hold for 8-10+ years.
An excellent tasting with Fabio and a great day in Verduno! Posted from CellarTracker
Thank you Howard, so this seems to confirm that the 2014 vintage was still relatively good in Verduno, a northern region of Barolo, compared to certain other villages.
Definitely Alex is the winemaker. His wife’s family are the historic owners, but Alex is winemakers. I’ve tasted with him several times - truly wonderful guy and some fantastic wines!
I don’t think that’s right. I think Alex is on the marketing and business end, and I think he’s the most comfortable working in English. This came up once before here and the suggestion that Alex was making the wine was rebutted.
Rosenthal, the importer, says on its website:
Sadly, Raffaele passed away in 2011 but two of Giacinto’s daughters, Cristina and Elena, are now completely engaged as the fourth generation, in the affairs of this family-run estate. Marina, Giacinto’s wife and mother of their children, is a brilliant cook and provider of wise counsel, and Alex Sanchez, husband of Elena, has joined the family enterprise.
Likewise, Kerin O’Keefe in Barolo and Barbaresco (p. 112) says that Elena is the enologist and Cristina is the agronomist.
That squares with my recollection from a visit in 2002 with an Italian ITB friend. Alex led the tasting but I recall that Elena (who dropped by) was making the wine.
John and Brian, I’ve visited twice in recent years and I’d be surprised if Alex wasn’t involved in the winemaking process, given how he talks about it. On our last visit we spent half an hour waiting with an assistant while he was working in the winery. It’s a small family operation so I wouldn’t be surprised if the three of them did most things …
I am belatedly typing up some notes from my last Burgundy trip …
Mark, Andrew and I said goodbye to Thierry and headed from Castiglione Falletto to Beaune. On arrival we were in a mood to broach a couple of nice white Burgundies …
2015 Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine Clos du Four- France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine
Pale gold. A bouquet with prominent creamy oak, poached pear, nectarine, almond paste and mandarin. On palate, a rich, opulent 2015-typical white Burgundy. White peach, blanched almonds and cashews, apricots with a creamy, lactic element. Big and bold. However, acceptable acidity. Hedonistic. I don’t expect this Clos du Four to be long-lived. Drink in the next 5-6 years.
2015 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ-Canet- France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
A better 2015 white Burgundy. Fairly gold coloured. After the initial reduction on opening, a Puligny-typical nose of lemons and limes, chalky minerals, pear, spices and gentle white meadow flowers. On palate, more Meursault than Puligny (not surprisingly, perhaps, for a climat on the Meursault border, in a warmer year). Decent acidity, the citrus here more mandarin or orange than lemon or lime. Real volume and power but a touch broader than I would, ideally, have liked. Also, prominent vanillin oak yet to integrate. Perhaps hold for 2-3 years, but I would not expect this Sauzet to be very long-lived.
We had a great meal – as usual – at Auprès du Clocher, particularly my Coquilles St.-Jacques entrée and the restaurant’s signature Époisses dish. We also had an excellent Coche-Dury to accompany. When I went to double down and order another Coche – in a surprise development – I was out-voted 2-1 to make way for a modest Pommard …
2013 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Chevalières- France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Pale gold. On bouquet, “more lemons and limes than stone fruit” (as Mark said). I thought more limes than lemons, with touches of greengage and green and yellow apple. Also cinnamon and other baking spices and minerals with breath of vanillin oak. On palate, that signature rich, fully ripe fruit, with sparkling acidity. It was surprisingly rich and opulent for a 2013. The tensile acidity cut through the fat in the cuisine. Lemon and lime citrus, green apple, pear and chalky minerals. Layered and complex. Brilliant! Drink or hold.
2009 Domaine Cyrot Buthiau Pommard 1er Cru Les Arvelets- France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
A Pommard nose of red cherry, dry clay and a little iron. Also the smallest hint of rose florals. On palate, red cherry, earth and a suggestion of Rugiens rusty iron. Generous fruit. Lighter, more limited 2009, acidity. Reasonable volume and length. A fruit forward, uncomplicated Pommard. Ready now.
