2017 Beaujolais

[lleichtman]

I published some 600 reviews of 2016 and 2017 Beaujolais wines in The Wine Advocate last year, if you can stomach the subscription… My summarized conclusions were as follows: "2016 is a good but heterogeneous vintage, with frost damage in early May followed by hail in late May and June. Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie and the northern parts of Morgon were the most severely affected. Hail is not destiny, and it was possible to produce superb wines from affected vineyards: witness Foillard’s terrific 2016 Morgon Côte du Py. But plenty of wines displayed firm, bitter tannins and a lack of energy. The vintage’s best offerings, of which there are plenty, are classically balanced, succulent examples of Beaujolais cut from the same cloth as vintages 2013 and 2014.

“2017 is a warmer, sunnier vintage of very high quality, with some producers comparing it to a hypothetical blend of 2015 and 2016 and others looking back to 2011. The wines are richer and more textural than the 2016s, without attaining the extremes of over-ripeness and hard tannin that sometimes mark the drought-impacted 2015s. Hail was a factor once again, however, and again struck Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent and Fleurie with particular ferocity. What would otherwise have been a homogenously excellent vintage is thus somewhat more varied in complexion.”

I haven’t tasted any 2018s but based on the weather and what I heard from growers I stay in touch with, there are some freakishly alcoholic wines and plenty that have problems with volatile acidity. So it sounds as if you might be right to be skeptical.

I tasted VA in a Thivin 2018 recently. Was the Moulin a Vent. It was also way too young.

[Tom_G_l_a_s_g_o_w]

I think Weygandt is in DC.

I thought Weygandt lives in PA where his company is based but he has the shoppe in DC.

Distribution company is in PA.

[Michae1_P0wers]

@lleichtman

I tasted VA in a Thivin 2018 recently. Was the Moulin a Vent. It was also way too young.

I had no idea Thivin made a M-a-V. Is that new?

[William_Kelley]

@lleichtman

I tasted VA in a Thivin 2018 recently. Was the Moulin a Vent. It was also way too young.

I had no idea Thivin made a M-a-V. Is that new?

If they do, they never presented it to me—and I was there Tuesday! Didn’t notice notable levels of VA in any of their 2018s, which across the board showed very well.

In general, in fact, I am being positively surprised by my tastings of 2018s. Thinking aloud, and without mature reflection, the vintage is perhaps best characterized as a juicier, less tannic version of 2015: the fruit is ripe and sun-kissed, the acidities comparatively low, but—thanks to the high yields—the wines retain the juicy succulence and facility that is such a distinguishing feature of Gamay, and they are not wrapped up in hyper-concentration and structure like some of the 2015s where. Quite a few producers are drawing parallels with 2011, and while I think 2018 is a riper vintage than 2011 in the final analysis, such a comparison does betray confidence. I can certainly say that the immediacy and expressive fruit of the 2018s that I have tasted will make them very appealing to a broad audience. And interestingly, perhaps suggesting that the experience derived from vintages such as 2017 and 2015 has not been wasted, a number of low sulfur producers talked about how they had surveilled their fermentations under the microscope, taken pains to make sure their tanks were well blanketed with CO2 (for those working with carbonic maceration), and sometimes added more sulfur than usual, or brought the lees into suspension, or otherwise intervened, to ensure clean, stable wines. Naturally, I am visiting what are to my mind the best and most interesting producers, but the cleanliness and purity of fruit I’ve found in the 2018s I have tasted thus far, from the top addresses, is markedly better than what I had been expecting. The lack of hail damage that marked 2016 and 2017, especially in Fleurie and Moulin-à-Vent as well as parts of Morgon, also makes for more homogeneity among the top producers who were able to manage the challenging fermentations in 2018.

[Sc0tt_F_tzgerald]

I want to put a case of 2017s together, and have access to the following wines. Which wines and how much of each would you recommend? TIA.

2017 Chateau Thivin Brouilly Reverdon
2017 Chateau Thivin Cote de Brouilly Cuvee Zaccharie
2017 Domaine du Vissoux Fleurie les Garants
2017 Domaine du Vissoux Fleurie Poncie
2017 Domaine du Vissoux Moulin A Vent Les Trois Roches
2017 Domaine du Vissoux Saint-Amour Les Champs Grilles
2017 Jean Foillard Corcelette
2017 Jean Foillard Morgon
2017 Jean Foillard Morgon Cote de Py
2017 Jean Foillard Morgon Eponyme

[Robert.A.Jr]

A case of all of them?

Hard to miss there. I would add Roilette and Bouland, if you have access.

[Robert.A.Jr]

@lleichtman

I tasted VA in a Thivin 2018 recently. Was the Moulin a Vent. It was also way too young.

I had no idea Thivin made a M-a-V. Is that new?

If they do, they never presented it to me—and I was there Tuesday! Didn’t notice notable levels of VA in any of their 2018s, which across the board showed very well.

In general, in fact, I am being positively surprised by my tastings of 2018s. Thinking aloud, and without mature reflection, the vintage is perhaps best characterized as a juicier, less tannic version of 2015: the fruit is ripe and sun-kissed, the acidities comparatively low, but—thanks to the high yields—the wines retain the juicy succulence and facility that is such a distinguishing feature of Gamay, and they are not wrapped up in hyper-concentration and structure like some of the 2015s where. Quite a few producers are drawing parallels with 2011, and while I think 2018 is a riper vintage than 2011 in the final analysis, such a comparison does betray confidence. I can certainly say that the immediacy and expressive fruit of the 2018s that I have tasted will make them very appealing to a broad audience. And interestingly, perhaps suggesting that the experience derived from vintages such as 2017 and 2015 has not been wasted, a number of low sulfur producers talked about how they had surveilled their fermentations under the microscope, taken pains to make sure their tanks were well blanketed with CO2 (for those working with carbonic maceration), and sometimes added more sulfur than usual, or brought the lees into suspension, or otherwise intervened, to ensure clean, stable wines. Naturally, I am visiting what are to my mind the best and most interesting producers, but the cleanliness and purity of fruit I’ve found in the 2018s I have tasted thus far, from the top addresses, is markedly better than what I had been expecting. The lack of hail damage that marked 2016 and 2017, especially in Fleurie and Moulin-à-Vent as well as parts of Morgon, also makes for more homogeneity among the top producers who were able to manage the challenging fermentations in 2018.

William, you rock!

[Robert_M_yers]

I want to put a case of 2017s together, and have access to the following wines. Which wines and how much of each would you recommend? TIA.

2017 Chateau Thivin Brouilly Reverdon
2017 Chateau Thivin Cote de Brouilly Cuvee Zaccharie
2017 Domaine du Vissoux Fleurie les Garants
2017 Domaine du Vissoux Fleurie Poncie
2017 Domaine du Vissoux Moulin A Vent Les Trois Roches
2017 Domaine du Vissoux Saint-Amour Les Champs Grilles
2017 Jean Foillard Corcelette
2017 Jean Foillard Morgon
2017 Jean Foillard Morgon Cote de Py
2017 Jean Foillard Morgon Eponyme

I’d buy 3 of each Zaccharie, Corcelette and Cote du Py then a few singles of the Vissoux because I’m not as familiar.

[Lee_Short]

I want to put a case of 2017s together, and have access to the following wines. Which wines and how much of each would you recommend? TIA.

2017 Chateau Thivin Brouilly Reverdon
2017 Chateau Thivin Cote de Brouilly Cuvee Zaccharie
2017 Domaine du Vissoux Fleurie les Garants
2017 Domaine du Vissoux Fleurie Poncie
2017 Domaine du Vissoux Moulin A Vent Les Trois Roches
2017 Domaine du Vissoux Saint-Amour Les Champs Grilles
2017 Jean Foillard Corcelette
2017 Jean Foillard Morgon
2017 Jean Foillard Morgon Cote de Py
2017 Jean Foillard Morgon Eponyme

I’d buy 3 of each Zaccharie, Corcelette and Cote du Py then a few singles of the Vissoux because I’m not as familiar.

A very reasonable approach, Robert. Which Vissoux to buy depends on if Scott wants to drink them early or late. Late, go with the Moulin-a-Vent. Early – get one each of the Fleuries, and one of the Saint-Amour (I’ve never had the latter, but Vissoux has never disappointed yet). Drink the Fleurie Poncie before the les Garants.

[Jurgen_Steinke]

I tasted and bought several 2017 Beaujolais. Wonderful vintage. I think you cannot have enough of these wines. Top Beaujolais is probably the best buy today due to a perfect QPR. I hope this situation remains for a while.

[Ryan_M]

I’ve had one, and I don’t really Beaujolais vintages, so i can’t comment on the style of the vintage; but I found this one very compelling:

Pierre-Marie Chermette, Les Trois Roches, Moulin a Vent 2017
Exceptional, lovely nose, with cherry/raspberry, blackberry, black currant, all very meaty, with abundant spice and loads of smokey stone/earth; outstanding depth and fragrance. On the palate, sweet, succulent, meaty cherry / raspberry, blackberry, black currant, a touch of mint tobacco leaf, generous spice and black pepper (with a bit of heat even), then tons of smokey / salty stone / mineral. Very full bodied, with outstanding density, grip, and acid tone, with a long, mineral laden finish; very fresh, succulent but also very savory in texture. Outstanding, the best Beaujolais I have ever had, so complete and satisfying. 5 to 10 years ahead, perhaps as much as 15. 4 Stars [4/27/19]

[Robert.A.Jr]

Thanks, Ryan! Just ordered some.

And, motivated, popped a 2017 Thivin. It’s fantastic. Ordering yet more. I accidentally have almost killed the whole bottle through dinner and reading news.

[Jeff_Rosenberg]

I accidentally have almost killed the whole bottle through dinner and reading news.

I frequently have the same problem.

[Ian_Fitzsimmons]

My local retailer is carrying a producer that I have not tried before, any comments:

2017 Yohan Lardy Moulin-a-Vent Vieilles Vignes de 1903

I just grabbed more Bouland.

What you really need is magnums of the Morgon Delys, Robert.

How long do you hold the Delys in magnum, William, as a general matter. I have 2011, and the only 750 I’ve opened so far shooed me out of the room and told me not to come back for several years.

[G_Newman]

I really enjoyed the 2017 from Domaine des Billards Saint-Amour. I had read that Saint-Amour can be of poor quality as much of it is produced for Valentine’s day, but thought the Domaine des Billards was great: pomegranate and red cherries on the nose, with a rich, full-bodied wine on the palate.

John Gilman has been raving about this Cru bottling for a couple of years now but I had never come across it. His praise for the 2017 was very strong: “seamless tannins and great focus and grip on the very, very long … finish.”

The amazing thing is not that he suggests holding off until 2023 to begin drinking it, but that it could last through 2060!

[William_Kelley]

My local retailer is carrying a producer that I have not tried before, any comments:

2017 Yohan Lardy Moulin-a-Vent Vieilles Vignes de 1903

I just grabbed more Bouland.

What you really need is magnums of the Morgon Delys, Robert.

How long do you hold the Delys in magnum, William, as a general matter. I have 2011, and the only 750 I’ve opened so far shooed me out of the room and told me not to come back for several years.

Ten years is great… 2018 will be a bit more open-knit and accessible out of the gates than 2011, whereas 2017 will need a similar amount of time.

[Hank_Victor]

2017 Foillard Morgon Cuvee Corcelette was drinking great last week.

[David_K2]

2017 Foillard Morgon Cuvee Corcelette was drinking great last week.

Good to hear. I have some of this on order.

[Ian_Fitzsimmons]

What kind of pup is that, David, if you don’t mind me asking?

[m_ristev]

drank the 17 dutraive fleurie lieu dit and it was wonderful. the aromatics were very similar to metras. there was incredible balance and freshness…hard to believe it is 14 degrees abv