2014 Grand Cru Chablis, mostly

The usual Seattle Vinous group, minus Don Kern (viral illness), plus Harry Hollander, who happily flew in from SF. 2014 for us was the last great year for Chablis, so we thought we should check in on things. The 14’s remain just wonderful wines.

2008 Dom Perignon–OK–not a Chablis, but no one complained. Fresh, more open than expected. Lemon, pear, slight brioche but not much. Young still, decent structure which bodes well for the future. Would be interesting to revisit in 5 years.

2014 Billaud-Simon Chablis Grand Cru ‘Vaudesir’–Elegant, poised wine showing just beautifully and in a great spot now. Flowers, apple, pear, lemon, slight iodine on the nose. Only mid–weight at best but beautifully balanced in terms of acidity–the wine just dances on the palate. A gorgeous ballerina (or mermaid) of a wine. (can you tell that I liked it?) (double decanted 2 hours ahead).

2014 Moreau-Naudet Chablis Grand Cru ‘Valmur’–Much thicker wine, noticeable oak, a bit heavy. The nose did not really engage. Not my style.

2014 Wm Fevre Chablis Grand Cru ‘Bougros Cote Bougerots’–A strong wine with good body and persistence. Some light Chablis qualities on the nose, but this seemed fairly subdued. Overall the wine seemed a little constrained. This was the only wine under diam. We wondered if it just hadn’t developed as much as the others because of the closure? (double decanted 2 1/2 hour ahead).

2014 Dauvissat-Camus Chablis Grand Cru ‘Les Clos’–Wonderful aromatics like the Vaudesir, with flowers, lemon, saline, iodine. More power on the palate, and more depth and length, although still mid-range in this regard. An impressive wine, and probably wine of the night for the 2014’s, although did I mention that I loved the Vaudesir? (double decanted 3 hours ahead).

2008 Raveneau Chablis Premier Cru ‘Montee de Tonnerre’–Still young. Nicely structured and textured wine, mid-weight but powerful. Lemon, slight honey, tide pool. Not as floral as some of the '14’s, but great mouth feel and length. Hard to compete with Raveneau.

7 Likes

Just 5 minutes ago I got my shipment from Winebid, 2 cases of 2014 Chablis, mostly just 1er’s. Such an amazing vintage.

1 Like

Smart man!

Great notes John! I’ve been charmed and in love with 2014 Chablis from the first moment a 2014 Vocoret Les Forets hit my lips. All of the other PC’s and GC’s that have graced my palate since have been classic Chablis in the most wonderful way. Cheers!

1 Like

I’m all in on 2014 Chablis, although I wish I had more.

Any thoughts about 2021? Besides the fact that there was very little of it.

1 Like

YOu know, I bought fair amount of 2021 in the hopes that it was another more classic vintage (after avoiding 15,16,18,19. 17 is very good. 20, 22 not bad but still not my style). I haven’t tried all that much of 21, but what I have tried has been promising, although some have been a bit angular (ok with me–that may settle out with age).

I only have a few cases of 2021, the ones I’ve tried have been chiseled and mineral-laden and very promising. Haven’t tried any GC’s yet.

Chablis seems to be able to handle solar better than the heart of burgundy. I’ve had very good chablis from 18, 19, and 20.

Chablis also handles colder vintages (such as 2014) exceptionally well.

As a matter of fact. Are there any really bad vintages in Chablis? Some consider 2018 a bad vintage but just like you, I’ve had some really nice ones from '18.

I’m drinking a completely no-name base Chablis from 2014 right now (Chanson Pere et Fils Chablis), and it is absolutely delicious. For like $25 from Winebid, I’m glad I bought some (and it’s under Diam too!)

1 Like

Yeah, I not infrequently hear about folks having a really nice Chablis from what I would regard as an off year, but they rarely mention specific wines. I’m sure I’m missing some decent wines, but I don’t find it terribly productive to chase wines in years that I don’t particularly like.

I’m pretty picky about my Chablis, and don’t like rich, ripe, wines that can lack definition, and don’t want Cote de Beaune lookalikes. And I don’t particularly like having wines in the cellar that I’m not particularly interested in. I tend to focus on just a few producers (Droin, Bessin-Tremblay, Samuel Billaud, sometimes Wm Fevre), and often I have to buy without getting a chance to taste a specific wine. So when a vintage comes out, I try to taste what’s available locally amongst producers that I trust. If the wines don’t excite me, I tend to skip buying a lot of the vintage, and drink what I have. I have bought some '20 and '22 because I was running low, but for me these are middling years. And plenty of '21, alth0ugh supplies are pretty constrained.