Here we have a textbook KABINETT. The trademark of a Kabinett is and always will be lightness, floating elegance, fruit-acidity-play, low alcohol and drinking pleasure. Its the first Kabinett vintage from Nierstein/Roter Hang by the estate Keller. He bought the parcels „Hipping" and „Pettenthal" from the famous Franz Karl Schmitt who retired. The estate FK Schmitt is a legend, as it delivered a 1952 Hipping Auslese for the coronation of Queen Elisabeth II
soil of Roter Hang
KP Keller and Franz Karl Schmitt
Sorry, I am a bit lazy these days due to the hot temperatures in Berlin and I will re-publish a complete TN by a german wine blogger who tasted the “Hipping” Kabinett at the estate in 2013. And the impressions are still spot on.
"THE surprise of my visit of the estate Keller. I can’t remember that I have ever drunken such an expressive and at the same time delicate/sophisticated Kabinett. The nose is pure chalk powder, with pure apple flavors, touch floral notes and young tropical fruits. The bouquet dances such beautiful on my nose that it is a real pleasure. The middle body is dancing light and crisp on the palate. The first sip offers a dense fruit of young apples, mango and floral herbs spice and the limestone bites into the palate. Big expression and cool&complex. Simply outstanding is the fruit-acidity play which is such intense that my tongue is vibrating. Wonderful looong finish, still with this great fruit-acidity-play. Here we have a textbook Kabinett and shows the greatness of this Prädikat. And with 8,5% you can even drink a second glass or a third. Long-aging potential.“
P.S. just for the record the Rieslings from FK Schmitt age terrific, as I had the chance to taste back until 1895 in a tasting at the estate Keller in summer 2012.
Mind-blowing was a 1921 Nierstein KEHR & FLÄSCHENHAHL Trockenbeerenauslese which was one of the best Rieslings I’ve ever drunken. Pure magic with unbelievable harmony and never-ending length. nectar of the gods 100/100
A 1971 Nierstein REHBACH Auslese was fantastic too with a lot of Mokka flavors and such seductive.
I was also stunned about the freshness&finesse of 1934 Nierstein REHBACH Auslese
Also great a 1953 Nierstein REHBACH Beerenauslese with good length.
And a very nice 1934 Nierstein PETTENTHAL & AUFLANGEN Trockenbeerenauslese
1895 Nierstein FLÄSCHENHAHL Auslese was surprisingly quite fresh on the palate.
So Gilman reports four schubertslay bottlings from Keller this year: the kabinett, a kabinett alte reben (which is the one that will be sold at auction), an auslese alte reben in tiny quantity, and…an alte reben GG that will be sold at auction. Prices will no doubt be stratospheric for anything he sells at auction. I’m going to aim for a few bottles of the kabinetts.