2011 Dublere Bourgogne Blanc – Intense aromas of white fruits and spices; Macintosh apple, ginger and coriander seed. The palate is dense and layered, with Bosc pear to go with the apple. Blazingly fresh acidity works well with smoked salmon, but this needs time. Rated 88.2, up to 2 points of improvement possible over the next 2 – 4 years.
1988 Bruno Clair Gevrey 1er Cru ‘Clos St Jacques’ – decanted for an hour – decanting eliminated old Burg funk leaving black cherries, black plums and plenty of sous-bois. Color is quite light, but the wine has substantial breadth, although light in body. This has autumnal finesse, fine subtlety, hints of cumin to go with the fruits, now red as well as black. The earthiness is well integrated, the balance is excellent. Rated 92.5, ready to drink but I think decanting makes a big positive difference.
Dan Kravitz
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