A few of us gathered to sample some top-end 2011 Barolos and to get a sense of the vintage. All in all, I found the wines to be quite good. There is a pronounced emphasis on sweet red fruits, with very soft tannins that are not obtrusive, even so early on in the game. The acidity I did find a bit lacking (in the context of Barolo), and all in all, if I might prognosticate a bit, I would not be comfortable calling this a long-lived vintage. For the medium term, I am confident that these are wines that will provide simple pleasure, as they are charming and pretty, and not stern and cerebral. My guess would be that they don’t particularly need lots of time for their charms to be revealed, and this is a vintage to drink while more revered vintages sleep.
2011 Marc Hébrart Champagne Spécial Club 1er Cru- France, Champagne
The nose was quite restrained and muted, but from what I could pick up, I found some demure white florals and fruit. The palate is similarly restrained – it didn’t have the intensity I found in the 2008 version of this wine. The acidity is definitely a tad lower, and there’s some sweet white fruit here as well. This is just a little bit too light and not quite tense enough for me, but it’s still a great bottle of Champagne nonetheless. (90 pts.)
2014 Domaine de la Pépière (Marc Ollivier) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Vieilles Vignes Clos des Briords- France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine
It’s been a while since I’ve had the Briords, and it’s a nice return to home, though perhaps it’s not quite the right wine for such a cold winter day. Nevertheless. The nose has some lovely white fruit and florals which continue on the palate, while being counterbalanced by a nice saline minerality. Quite restrained, but despite that, there’s really good concentration and depth here. (90 pts.)
2011 Elio Grasso Barolo Ginestra Casa Maté- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
(Double decanted about six hours before serving.) Plummy and red-fruited on the nose, with a lot of high-toned cherry cough syrup aromas. The palate here is much darker than the nose would imply though, and this shows a slight touch more earth than the Chiniera. There’s a real polish to this, but despite innuendo to the contrary, I didn’t detect any oak on this. I did find the acids to be muted in comparison to the jubilant fruit. I was really surprised by the very, very soft tannins here. (90 pts.)
2011 Elio Grasso Barolo Gavarini Chiniera- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
(Double decanted about six hours before serving.) This had a relatively restrained nose and it wasn’t showing off so many high-toned aromas as its Casa Mate sibling. I loved the dust on the nose here. The palate was a bit simple at this point, showing really light and sweet red fruit. This came across a touch confected as well, but there was certainly excellent restraint here. Again, the acidity was a touch light, and taking much of a back seat to the sweet red fruit. (90 pts.)
2011 Vietti Barolo Brunate- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
(Double decanted about six hours before serving.) The nose on this is absolutely superb. Very complex and perfumed, with lovely brown spice notes coupled with tart red cherries. Lots of depth and material on the palate, with a lot of juicy red fruit, relatively soft tannins, and moderate acidity. This is an immensely giving wine – at least, at the outset. In the glass with air, this firmed up and it seemed like this was folding in on itself a little bit, though there was still lots to enjoy. (93 pts.)
2011 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
(Double decanted about six hours before serving.) Easily one of the wines of the evening, this was one of the odd wines that showed more on the black side of the spectrum. The nose had some Christmas spice elements to it, followed by some sweet black cherries. You could find the same on the palate, and even though the sweet fruit was never in danger of disappearing, this was probably the sternest expression of nebbiolo tonight. Revisiting the bottle later on, the nose became even more potent, and you could feel on the palate that there was a lot more to give. (95 pts.)
2011 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cerretta- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
(Pop and pour.) Very pretty nose with very sweet and bright cherry notes and just a slight touch of earth. The palate is very sweet and is showing an incredible amount of fruit right now, and all of it sweet. There’s a touch of fresh roses on the palate as well, though that is definitely very, very muted in comparison to the exuberant and sweet fruit. The acidity here does seem a little bit muted, and I can only hope that with time it expresses itself more loudly. At this early point in time, this is obviously not too expressive besides the copious amounts of baby fat. The tannins do seem a bit soft for such a young Barolo, and I’m going to guess that this ends up closer to a medium-term wine. With a few hours of air, this definitely picked up a lot of heft, losing a lot of the high-tone notes. The tannins became a touch more abrasive, and some darker aromas started to emerge. (93 pts.)
2011 Vietti Barolo Rocche di Castiglione- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
(Double decanted about six hours before serving.) I felt that this was much more polished and flamboyant than the Brunate. This was squeaky clean, with a slightly pungent red-fruited nose. I thought that the acidity here was a tad higher than the other wines, though at the same time the tannins were softer. On the palate however, this didn’t have the same depth as the Brunate, which I slightly preferred. (93 pts.)
2011 Paolo Scavino Barolo Monvigliero- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
(Opened and poured into a decanter about an hour before serving.) A bit darker and richer than most of the other wines tonight. The palate has a very modern look and feel to it (I don’t mean oak, but more of a sleek and stylish quality). My understanding is that the wine sees a series of barriques of varying ages (on average three years). Medium acids and soft tannins, but the palate does show a fair bit of red fruit, despite the darker nose. I’m not sure if I’m tasting oak or just modern spit-polished flair, but I did feel it detracted a little bit from an otherwise, quite elegant and lovely Barolo. Still, this was a very well made and enjoyable Barolo. (90 pts.)
2011 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
(Opened and poured into a decanter about an hour before serving.) One of the wines of the night. This was probably one of the lightest in colour of the wines tonight, and also boasted a very unique nose, which had a touch of olive tapenade on it. We discussed, to no certain conclusion, whether stems were included in the making of this wine. The palate is incredible – Lambraysesque in its shy elegance. Bright, but not overly sweet, red fruit, counterbalanced by lovely acids. Perfumed, airy, and lithe, this was in a class of its own. (95 pts.)
Thanks for the notes! I’ve recently drunk the Pepiere Briords and Burlotto myself, your notes really echo my opinion. Burlotto is rapidly becoming one of my favorite producers.
I actually brought the Monvigliero 2011 to a blind tasting. Nobody had a clue as to what it was (most thought Burgundy - I think), but when it was revealed several people seemed to rate it more negatively because it didn’t taste like a typical Barolo.
Thanks Adrian
Monvigliero will be as iconic as Rionda some day not too far away
Alessandrias version is often better than Burlotto. 2011 is an example of that imo
According to the producer it is indeed made with stems — 100% whole clusters. I discussed this with Fabio back in November while visiting his winery and it was mentioned by Antonio last weekend at Festa del Barolo.
I think it comes across in the unique nose and complexity on the palate. It helps that 2011 was a warm vintage and thus the stems were plenty ripe.
Endre, Robert L: thanks for the views and info! The Burlotto is a tad atypical to be sure, but so, so good. A few of agreed we’d have some trouble immediately calling it Barolo if it was served blind.
Robert A: I haven’t yet tried the Produttori. I’ve no doubt they’re fine wines. Hard to imagine the coop messing anything up. I’ve got a 11 Giacosa Santo Stefano lined up for soon as well though!
In general I’m coming around to the 2011 Barolos… had the Cogno Cascina and Allesandria San Lorenzo recently and both were nice, early drinking wines. That said the prices are really similar if not higher than what I paid in 2010 and they certainly aren’t better wines (in most cases - I’m sure we can find a few exceptions). Given that dynamic I’ll buy a few, but hard to see going deep and certainly not for things > $100.
What would you call “medium” term? Good for next 5-10 years, 20?
Debating adding some 11 Barolo to my son’s birth year wine stash. If they will be dead fish in 2032 I’ll have to sacrifice and drink them early.
Medium term Barolo is probably around 20-30 years, at least in my book. I’ve had amazing bottles from the 60s that, while drinking well, can stand to age more. On the other hand, who am I kidding, well stored Barolo lasts pretty much forever.
I didn’t do a similar tasting with 2010, but I remember finding the wines a bit too fleshy at the time (although in hindsight, the 2011s also have an element of that).
Another funny thought. I didn’t check the abvs of these wines, but I know the Cerretta was 15%. They hold their alcohol very, very well. These wines never taste hot.
Adrian, thanks for the notes. I had most of those wines in my visit to Piemonte last year and had similar impressions to yours … I really liked the 2011 Vietti SVs and especially liked the Burlotto Monvegliero. Coincidentally, I just finished another bottle at home:
2011 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (2/11/2016)
I know that I probably shouldn’t. But I couldn’t resist opening another bottle of this Barolo. I enjoy it so much. However, I sense that this bottle is now starting to shut down … the tannic structure is now coming forward to mask the fruit … Colour plum red. A nose of dark berry, musk, dark spices and baked clay, with a funky, stemmy, herby element. A top perfume note of old English rose. On palate, more savoury, earthy and dry brushwood driven than you’d expect from the bouquet. Also plummy with raspberries and some tobacco. It’s ripe and rich and big boned but it has sufficient acidity for balance. The fine grained tannins on the back palate now seem more prominent and firmer than last time I drank a bottle. It’ll definitely need the 6-8 years Fabio recommended.
Adding my notes as well. It looks like my overall take and favorites were similar to Adrian. These are drinking very well right now but you gotta think they’ll shut down soon, or maybe not, new paradigm and all. I’m in the camp that says the 2011s will go 20+ years and enter their window in 8-10 years as Howard notes above.
I liked that the wines were fairly transparent to their terroir but each producer’s house style was also evident. Unfortunately the pricing for 2011 is on par with 2010, so the 2010s are a better value. But I’ll still buy and cellar 2011s from my favorites and opportunistically buy more as deals show up.
2011 Marc Hébrart Champagne Spécial Club 1er Cru- France, Champagne
Young and forward aromatics of mostly white fruit and mineral. Palate is similarly youthful with loads of fresh, zesty acidity and a lightweight feel. Not profound but an enjoyable starter and palate warm up. (89 pts.)
2014 Domaine de la Pépière (Marc Ollivier) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Vieilles Vignes Clos des Briords- France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine
This is such a reliably terrific wine and highway robbery at the price point. Bright lifted aromatic of salinity, ocean breeze and seashells. Beautiful driving cut and precision on the palate. Oozes with minerals, chalkiness and rain water. Good as an aperitif and just begging for oysters. (92 pts.)
Elio Grasso
2011 Elio Grasso Barolo Ginestra Casa Maté- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Gorgeous aromatic leaps from the glass – sweet black cherry, earth and coffee. The nose is dense and powerful but not yet delineated. The palate shows big, round, creamy and polished fruit with svelte tannin. So smooth and giving though it does finish a bit chalky as the tannins make themselves known. Terrific and quite pleasurable now. Double decanted ~6 hours before tasting. (93 pts.)
2011 Elio Grasso Barolo Gavarini Chiniera- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Nose is brighter and more red fruited than the Casa Mate tasted side by side. Serious spice component in the aromatic. Similarly, in the mouth this is lighter and brighter than the Casa Mate. What it does have in common is a polished, smooth fruit and sweet tannin. Concentrated. Long and lifted finish. Later in the evening this had picked up another layer of depth and more chalkiness in the finish. Double decanted ~6 hours before tasting. (94 pts.)
Brunate
2011 Vietti Barolo Brunate- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Restrained nose initially has red fruits and Indian spices. On the palate this is big and concentrated with serious brawny tannin on the mid-palate that clamps things down. Later in the evening it was less grumpy and more giving on the palate and aromatically. Loads of upside, but a bit harder to gauge. 92-94 points. Double decanted ~6 hours before tasting. (92 pts.)
2011 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Holy moly, this was really good and singing. Killer nose has sweeter, candied red fruit, florals, earth tones and Indian spices. On the palate I found the fruit to be lighter weight, sleek and smooth. There’s good cut and acid that provides persistence, energy and lift. Really love the depth and layering on the palate. So much stuffing and yet ethereal. Amazing Barolo. Double decanted ~6 hours before tasting. (96 pts.)
Barolo Zone
2011 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cerretta- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Initially the aromas are fragrant but kind of simple with youthful, bright red fruits, florals and some spice. After an hour in the glass, another layer of aromas appears with more ‘baritone’ plum, black cherry, earth and tar. In the mouth this had medium body and generous acidity (one of the higher acid levels I observed in the horizontal). The finish really lingers and flashes a range of flavors. Lots of upside from here. Pop n pour with ~1 hour of slow ox. (93 pts.)
2011 Vietti Barolo Rocche di Castiglione- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Another big and dense nose that right now is brooding and non-delineated with a mix of black cherry, plum, earth and spice notes. On the palate, this has medium-to-full body with prickly tannin that leaves a chewy mouthfeel. For all the size and heft, there is plenty of lift, length and energy. Was even better with food. A powerhouse of a wine with upside. Decanted ~6 hours prior to tasting. (93 pts.)
Verduno
2011 Paolo Scavino Barolo Monvigliero- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
A big and concentrated nose that is brooding and non-delineated now – red fruit, spice with a touch of vanilla cream. On the palate this has good concentration and polished fruit with chalky tannin. Lots of promising raw material and a touch of modernity (I believe this sees on average 3 year old wood) but not overblown. Picked up depth and complexity with time. Upside from here. Decanted for ~2 hours before tasting. (92 pts.)
2011 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
A spectacular and singular wine that is anything but typical. Gorgeous aromatics with high toned red fruit, olive tapenade, mint and dried herb. Completely different than anything else in the lineup. The stems add a beautiful and intriguing signature. On the palate this is light in body with grace and elegance. Sweet cherry, raspberry, florals, olive and stem-driven herbal notes. Lifted and persistent. Decanted for ~2 hours before tasting. (96 pts.)
Markus, I meant Vigna Rionda is often considered THE legendary vineyard.
My fav producer is bound to be Giacosa. Alas no riserva tasted, but a1974 and a 1971
Of current bottlings i like some Massolino vintages. Oddero not so much. Maybe after the split of the Canale plot something will happen
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