What a lovely surprise this 2010 Obalo ‘Crianza’ [Rioja] has been tonight! I knew nothing about this new estate, but at some point on release a retailer+Guaia Penin had rec’d it, so I put one away, pulling it out in my last offsite retrieval. Typically, crianza level ought to/would have been consumed earlier, but when this was stashed away it was a hectic time in our lives (three moves plus a new pet bobcat) so cataloging and organization was limited. This is a newish bodega in the prime La Rioja zone, that follows the old vine (40 - 70 years old) 100% tempranillo doctrine, and like Muga’s reserva, uses new French oak the first year in barrel. At age 12, I find this dark, full bodied, purplish 14.5% abv Rioja to show a bouquet still inflected with vanilla, cream, sandalwood, that then segues into a palate of black fruit, a light tannic structure (still!), and a dense 30-40 second finish. It leans modern/international/ripe but in a measured way, like a chef who prefers Roman levels of salting, rather than Batali Sodium Institute insanity. Closed with a conventional normal length cork, moderately soaked, and in a brown bottle (which I always love). The label is modern/strange, but the wine is great. [As an aside, Rioja labels tend to give cues as to where on the style spectrum they sit. Vivanco is the only exception I can think of top of mind] I really like this and give it an A- on my scorecard; for this level of DOC it’s probably a touch richer priced than comparables, but I would suggest to just ignore its official level. It is an ageworthy value – I suspect there is another decade of positive development here given the improvement in glass over a couple of hours.
PS: This was picked up via mail order years ago, so I’m of mixed feelings about finding (yet another) property whose wines I want…especially one that is unlikely to be acquired without shipping drama. I hardly ever hear/see the Penin guidebooks for Spain mentioned here, but if one’s taste align with their committee driven views, which are blind tasted, one can find little gems like this; that set of critics rated this far higher than anyone else.
A recent WB thread on Rioja prompted me to pull this 2010 Carlos Serres ‘Gran Reserva’ [Rioja] which I consumed over a couple of nights. This 14% abv blend of 85% tempranillo, 10% graciano, and 5% mazuelo grew on me over time, becoming quite enjoyable, even if not complex nor deep. It has a garnet robe, no fading at the edges, with a bouquet of pine and balsamic vinegar. It’s balanced between texture/fruit/acid, and glides along the glass. I’d put the fruit on the dried cherry side and whatever oak is used - at age 16 - is well absorbed. This bottling gets 36 months in barrel and then the same time in bottle before sale, and was purchased shortly after importation. I rarely see this commercial & value oriented producer so was interested to try their GR. It’s not going to win any panel tastings but it’s a good example of the region and I would put in the B+ zone, maybe notching it up if one likes ancillary varietals in their Rioja blends. (I’m not super enthused about sweaty graciano nor leathery mazuelo personally)
This was a great vintage in the region, and the rising tide lifted all the boats here. If one is exploring Rioja it’s worth calibrating the palate to the larger, well distributed bodegas too.
Drinking very well although still on the younger side. Really opened up in the bottle after about an hour of air. Classic Rioja nose of dark cherries and plums, dried fig, leather and tobacco, slight earthiness. Plenty of structure on the palate that resolves with air with a lasting silky finish. Can hold for 10+ more years maybe longer but I was not disappointed opening this. Drunk alongside an 86 Ducru and it held its own just fine.
LdH Tondonia Reserva yesterday, popped and poured, probably quite a mistake. WAY too much dill pickle (not a problem I usually have with LdH). Promising fruit underneath. But that oak!
Upon release the 2010 Ygay GR sold for $100/btl, subsequent releases retailed for a significant uptick post the 2010 getting the WS WotY accolades, so I think that’s a great discount to current release pricing all things considered.
