I know my Doppelgänger @Julian_Marshall is a fan of the JG Cuvee in this vintage, so admittedly, I have been excited to try it. This is one of the very few vintages of Sociando Mallet that I have not tried. Actually, it is one of the very few of the recent vintages in Bordeaux that I have almost no experience with. I have only had the 2002 Mouton and Cos. It seems like such a lost vintage, nestled in between either really fine vintages, or critically acclaimed vintages, so perhaps it just fell by the wayside.
What strikes me about this wine is its youthful demeanor and fresh attack. I am shocked that this is a 22-year-old wine. It actually still has some very primary, one-dimensional characteristics, but what it does show is really quite tasty. It has the green note that is such a constant in Sociando Mallet, But in this vintage, it is less of a savory herbaceous note, and more of a cool climate minty top note. The menthol and black fruit aromas are really quite appealing. As are the Spring florals. The palate mirrors the nose, a very crisp wine with fine acids and lithe physique. Very predominant notes of cassis, blackcurrant and mint. A bit of a dry finish with some coffee notes. So the summary is, this wine is very tasty, but one dimensional, and I just do not see it evolving in any further way. I would probably drink these up if you have one. Enjoy it for what it is.
I’m not a Bordeaux expert by any means but I’ve really loved some 02s, so much that I have come to actively seek them out when cheap. I really like 02 LLC. William Kelley has long praised 02 Latour, and I have a couple of those waiting for the right occasion.
Hi Robert- predicting aging potential is something that I’d love to learn more about. You describe this wine as youthful and fresh and your descriptors sound primary. Took me that sounds like a wine that could benefit from some aging. Even your “one dimensional“ comment could describe a wine that needs time to develop complexity. What makes you say that you don’t think this will age in a positive direction?
This isn’t meant as a criticism at all, just trying to learn. Thanks!!
All a wild guess for sure, and I could be dead wrong, but if it is this lean and one-dimensional at 22 and showing drying characteristics on the backend, I think it’s starting the decline and will dry out . I just didn’t feel overall that there was sufficient body and depth to this wine to evolve into something more than it is right now.
I was wondering whether you would find one of these! I’m sorry you didn’t enjoy it quite as much as I did. It does sound as if mine was more vibrant than yours and having had bottle variation with the JG 01, it could be that - or more likely, I’m more a fan of the 02 vintage than you are! I bought a couple more this summer so I’ll crack open another soon.
Welcome to the Secret Society of 2002, Robert. When I was starting out in this racket in 2009, it was like 2002 was a missing vintage, and the wines were referred to as if they’d been shades called up from Hades to moan inconsolably about lost times and missing flavor. I was led to believe that if you tasted a 2002, your mouthfeel would somehow be emptier than when you started, that the bottles were filled with cobwebs and shame, that a blind tasting between 2002 Pontet Canet and Fiji water would stump a whole panel of experts.
A retailer was selling a case of 2002 LLC, so I bit on 3 bottles, and they were all excellent in a way I imagine you digging. They were light and subtle and had very satisfying length that unfolded over the course of lunch. Since then I’ve had the Leoville Barton, which was great, and my favorite, the Leoville Poyferre - now I know from your posts that the latter is generally about as far from your wheelhouse as whatever thingie on a boat is really really far from a wheelhouse (rudder? bowsprite? dingy?) but in this case, it’s been a remarkable combination of persistence and subtlety. I bought a case and have drunk most of that in the last 4 years - it miiiiiight have peaked, and it might have some gas left, but if you’re intrigued, give it a shot.
The 02s were so cheap back in the day. First Growths <$100, some Super Seconds like Pichon Baron and Leoville Barton in the mid-$30s, wines like d’Issan in the low $20s… those prices are long gone. But Sociando, which cost $24 for the 02, its prices have barely kept up with inflation since then. Gotta love that.
My affection for the 02s is no doubt colored by the throwback prices we paid back then. Plus, coming right before the torrid 03 vintage and the controversial 05 vintage (when the debate about Parkerization reached its fevered apotheosis), the 02 seemed to come from a more innocent time.
Yep, those Leoville Barton, Pontet Canet, Branaire, Poyferre, SHL, Haut Bailly etc, were quite a hoot when they were released at ~$23 back then.
Although, some of the recent bottles have not endeared to me as much as they did then.
I drank another 02 Latour a couple of weeks ago and it was as great as ever. A wine that really transcends the vintage, and that transcends the vintage’s reputation even more.
Right bank 2002s are generally a bit less exciting, however.
Back in the day the 2002 vintage was a chance for my friends and I to finally score a few first growths at our acceptable price points. We passed on Latour since it was outrageous at $150/bottle.
PS: I did get some of the LLC too. Sounds like it’s a good time to open one
I think 2002 has always been an under-rated vintage on the left bank - both in the Medoc and in Graves/Pessac.
The fact that we were in a global mini recession and stock market slump at the time did not help sentiment and perceptions of the vintage. People were feeling poor and were not looking to buy wine after overextending on the millennium vintage. I remember the distinct lack of enthusiasm at the time.
It was not a hot or solar vintage, but the wines are reassuringly fleet-footed and classical, and the fact that these wines have generally been keenly priced and accessible relatively early has been a major plus, even if many of them won’t make old bones. Pichon Baron is a good example and was already open for business and delicious before it reached its tenth birthday.
We had the 2002 Latour back in May against the 1995, 1962, and 1952. It was marginally my preferred wine with all of them showing very well. I was in a minority of one but the dividends of Frederic Engerer’s quality drive were starting to pay out, after a slump in form at Latour in the 1990s.
I am not sure if I prefer the Latour or the superb Mouton for wine of the vintage accolade but have not tried Lafite or Haut-Brion. I think Ch Margaux was off the pace in this vintage, but that view is based on just one underwhelming encounter.
My other favourite wines in 2002 - and not far behind the first growths - are Leovilles Lascases and Barton and Ducru Beaucaillou. Not tried Palmer but am reliably informed it is superb in 2002. DDC is also in a great place right now.
In the U.S 2002 was the “freedom fries” vintage. France had committed the horrible sin of questioning the buildup for the American war in Iraq and was on the side of the terrorists. Parker didn’t even visit Bordeaux for the en primeur tastings, the only time I think that happened. Without Parker’s definitive critical stylings people had no idea what to buy and prices cratered. First growths were $90 a bottle on futures and wines like Pichon and Cos were $35. Sad I didn’t buy way way more than I did.
It was also such a distinctive vintage stylistically. I can’t remember another vintage that was so thin on fruit but yet still held up and had its own kind of completeness and elegance. On the left bank at least.
