With appetizers we had the 2001 Pernot Batard - a little darker than it should be but no premox with this one. Plenty of minerality, with a hint of tropical fruits showing through; great density to the body of this wine. Drink now while it is still in good shape.
Then on to stuffed cornish game hens with am orange glaze, I opened the Mongeard Grands Echezeaux. Dark color with some earth; the fruit was on the darker side with some underbrush along side; plenty of body to this wine also. Good now, but as always I prefer older wines with more of the mushroom/truffle/sous bois aromas and flavors. Note: this is a Vincent Mongeard bottling - I’m not sure what the difference is between this and the Mongeard-Mugneret bottling, if any.
Though I don’t know any specific info about the bottling, Vincent Mongeard , I think, is in charge now. His father, Jean and Dr. Georges Mugneret, were first cousins and were raised together. (I assume that Jean’s mother was a Mugneret.) Like other branches of that family, specifically Dr. Georges’ estate…ownership is fractionalized by inheritance. Maybe that’s what’s going on here, too. Mongeard is the family name…the estate, like many hyphenated the mother’s maiden name to distinguish it from others…, but like most of the associated families their name is not the same as the estate.
I’m not sure this added much, but…it is interesting to consider.
I’ve tasted some 06 and later M-M wines that I quite liked, and a couple of 99’s that I found very forced and extracted. Any comments on if there was a shift in winemaking / style here and if so, when?
Thank you, Jerry. My limited experience with the Mongeard-Mugneret wines is somewhat like your’s here - good, but not particularly precise, nuanced wine. I thought I might see a note on a 2001 d’Yquem to round things out.
I have to disagree with you, Rick. Pernot, for a long time, has gotten lots of attention and has a good following. (I first bought the '86 vintage when it came out and have visited them, too.) But, it always seems to remain an “underrated” domaine that remains out of the top tier.
I am not a fan, as I think Sauzet and Carrillon and Leflaive have made much better wines for years and years, in Puligny, and there are probably others, too. So, it seems that Pernot is “rated” where it should be: a good producer with a really nice range of wines, that don’t always dazzle. Whether their QPR is better than any of the above, I don’t know, as I don’t follow their prices.
But, many people really like the wines and rate them highly, I think.
Vincent, now 56 or so runs the M&M domaine. Jean, his father is close to 80 now so sort of pokes around. Vincent has background training in Viticulture. I have always found the Grand Echezeaux to be about the top wine of the domaine although I’ll vasillate between it and the Richebourg some years.
I’m thinking, as usual, about the whole lineup, which is mainly 1er cru and below. I almost never “rate, judge” a domaine solely on the grand crus…and don’t even have an opinion based on that criterion in this case. I’ve never thought of either Carillon or Pernot as a standout grand cru producer.