Yesterday afternoon we headed for Albuquerque for a tasting of 1999 Volnays at El Norteño by Casa del Vino. It was clearing in Santa Fe, but we ran into heavy rain and a strong headwind just south of La Bajada, and then more sprinkles just south of San Felipe. No more until we arrived in the vicinity of El Norteño, when we got a little sleet as we were pulling into the parking lot.
People assembled and the tasting started with two 1999 Chassagne-Montrachet Chaumées-Clos de la Truffiére, Vincent Girardin and Michel Neillon. Each was distinct, but both were very good. The Girardin was darker and oakier, the Neillon was bright and fruity; both were rich spicy, flowery white fruits in nose and flavors; rich balanced mid-palate with good acidity; and long spicy fruity finishes. They were delightful with our starting course of corn meal-crusted fried shrimp and slightly spicy lightly marinated nopalitos with onion and tomato. The shrimp was perfectly cooked, moist and tasty. The spice on the nopalitos did not hurt the wines at all and made a nice foil to the shrimp.
Then we moved on the the first flight of Volnays, three Taille Pieds from Bitouzet-Prieur, Bouchard, and Carré-Courbin. Colors were quite similar, a bright, clear ruby. All were pleasant rich spicy red fruit in nose and flavors; the Bitouzet was bright, with good acidity, a balanced mid-palate; and a rich long finish. The Bouchard was a little duller, but still balanced, with a long finish. The Carré was the surprise, big, rich ripe cherries and currants with spice and minerality; a balanced mid-palate with bright acidity; and a very long rich ripe, spicy fruit finish. All were very good with the next course of a light beef fajitas, with onion and a creamy guacamole. The fajitas also carried into the next flight of three Caillerets from Bouchard “Ancienne Cuvée Carnot”, Lucien LeMoine, and Joseph Voillot. Sadly the Bouchard was slightly corked, which worsened with time, and had already deadened the fruit. Too bad I really would have liked to taste it. The LeMoine was rich red fruit, with a bit of oak showing over the fruit, balanced, slightly oaky mid-palate, with a long oaky fruit finish. The Voillot was spicy red fruit with bright acidity, good balance, and a long fruity finish. Even without the corked wine, this was the weakest of the flights.
The next flight was Champans, from Vincent Girardin, Nicolas Potel, and Jacques Prieur. The flight was rich spicy red fruit with a touch of black fruit. The Girardin was a bit oaky, the Potel was big, ripe, rich, balanced fruit and acidity; with a very long rich complex fruit finish. The Prieur was similar to the Potel, just generally lighter all around. All were good with the next course of chicken breast strips and spicy mushrooms in a creamy Asadero cheese sauce. The final flight was Clos des Chênes, from Comtes Lafon, Château de Meursault, and Nicolas Potel. This was noticibly the best flight. The Lafon was big, ripe, spicy earthy red and black fruits, perfectly balanced mid-palate, with a very long complex spicy fruit finish, the wine of the night. The Ch. de Meursault was similar but not as complex and rich. The Potel was nearly as good as the Lafon, just as rich with more spicy red fruit, balanced, and a very long finish. These were also very good with the chicken dish.
This was a great tasting - no duds, except for the corked Bouchard. It was very nice to share great wines with good friends. Then we headed back to Santa Fe. The weather was clearing as we left Albuquerque as well as on the way back to Santa Fe. Surprisingly as we reached the top of La Bajada, there appeared to be additional snow on the ground. As we approached Santa Fe there was more snow all around. When we arrived at home, we had a couple inches of snow. Temperature were in the mid 30sF, so the roads were clear and there was no ice.
Then at home watched TV in the evening (we got back around 6pm), we thought we’d like a little snack. So we had some dry sausages (Fra’Mani mild and hot, Chorizo de Pamplona, & Chotizo Blanco), mozzeralla rolls (prosciutto & basil, spicy salame, pizza-seasoned, & Buffalo chicken wing-seasoned) with assorted olives and another 1999 wine, a Tablas Creek Reserve Cuvée (the predecessor to their Esprit de Beaucastel) with 40% Mourvedre, 27% Grenache, 23% Syrah, 10% Counoise. Dark garnet in color; rich, earthy, spicy dark fruit in nose and flavors; rich, balanced mid-palate. with good acidity and resolved tannins; and a long dark fruit finish. A nice way to finish a lovely day, while watch Sean Connery (still my favorite Bond) as James Bond in You Only Live Twice.