12` Pierre Peters Chetillons,Agrapart Terriors, 3 fine Rieslings, 3 white Burgs-Lafond, PYCM, Morey-Coff, a dessert wine

Our dinner group returned to our default sushi restaurant for another fine evening of fabulous food, wines and fellowship. As ie typical for this venue, we bring champagne, white Burgs and Rieslings to pair:

2012 PIERRE PETERS CUVEE SPECIAL LES CHETILLONS BLANC de BLANC GRAND CRU- I thoroughly enjoyed the first bottle I opened of this a couple of weeks ago and wanted to share it with our group as I discovered it to be extra stellar, at least the first bottle was; this was really good, but no where near the explosive, power laden beauty that preceded it; in so far as full on thrust, power, weight and depth is concerned, this was the antithesis as it seemed to have more finesse, charm and elegance; both bottles were nicely balanced and featured nice citrus notes along with apple, pear and tropical fruit accented by a mild touch of ginger and brioche; I’m still loving this release, but the bottle variation is shocking and I’m not sure which one is the real deal, but I suspect the first one was and I`ll buy more and find out.

NV AGRAPART & FILS TERRIORS BLANC de BLANCS EXTRA BRUT GRAND CRU- this is made of 100% Chardonnay sourced from 20–50-year-old grand cru vines in Avize, Oger, Cramant and Oiry {see map}; tis comprised of 40% 2014 and 60% 2013 reserves aged in barrel for 6 months; it was disgorged 2 months prior to the release date with a 5g/L dosage; it is unfined, unfiltered and hand riddled; this was very pretty with nice and easy offerings of minerals, chalk and saline infused lemon, lime, green apple and tangerine; I found it to be classy, light in weight, having lots of elegance and very enjoyable.

This house makes 3 non vintage cuvees:

7 Crus- their entry level wine made of 90% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir; derived from 2 vintages and 7 villages; disgorged at 7 gpl

Terriors- as noted above

Complantee- a field blend of 6 varieties, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Petit Meslier, Pinot Blanc and Arbane, all sourced from Avize; it is also derived from 2 vintages; disgorged at 5 gpl

2016 DOMAINE des ROCHES NEUVES CLOS ROMANS SAUMUR- 100% Chenin Blanc; this was impressive being super creamy and loaded with fresh and crisp slightly mineralized lemon and orange zest with a side of pear and apple; it was so rich and very fulfilling and maintained its focus throughout the evening as confined by repeated visits.

2017 WEINGUT EMMERICH KNOLL LOBNER FEDERSPIEL RIESLING WACHAU- see map and note the label for this Austrian beauty which displays an ornate image of St. Urban, the patron saint of winemakers and vineyards; they do selective hand harvesting, no destemming, skin contact and fermentation with cultured and natural yeast in stainless steel and casks for 5-10 days whereafter the wine spends 3 months on the lees; the nose and taste profile was inundated with mineral infused grapefruit while being delivered in an oily, feel good medium all the way to the back end; it had bright acidity and was in perfect balance and like the Chenin before it, deserved revisiting a few tines.

2016 JJ PRUM WEHLENER SONNENUHR SPATLESE- 8% abv; I’ve had many bottles of this in the last few months and the notes have been very consistent as all have had lovely sweet peach, mango, golden delicious apple, orange and lime fruit accented with minerality from the nose through the tail and gracefully delivered in a smooth, creamy medium that completes the wondrous sensory experience for this gem.

2017 COMTES LAFOND CLOS de la BARRE MEURSAULT- I’ve long been a fan of this release, but it’s been a few years since I had any recent vintage, so this was a real treat especially since it showed beautifully; it’s hallmark may have been its amazing balanced, but it had enticing aromatics, a wondrous mouthfeel and layers of mild citrus fruit with lemon the most prominent, so take your pick as to which attribute wins out; this is a class act.


2015 MOREY-COFFINET DENT de CHIEN CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET 1er Cru- who lit a match? There was so much flint in the air when this was passed and poured; its funkiness was mindful of walking down the streets of Amsterdam; well, maybe it was not to that extreme, but there was certainly enough flint and mineral character in this wine to placate all who cherish those notes; amazingly, this skunky, funky, citrus laden wine seemed to balance out and take it to another level of acceptance; the vineyard literally is separated from Montrachet by an 8ft dirt path. You cannot get any closer to it except for Chevalier-Montrachet. Only by picking hairs can you think of their Blanchots-Dessus 1er bottling as a second to Dent de Chien. It lies directly on the southern border of Montrachet but is down a 10-15ft drop next to the road that separates the two.

2017 PIERRE-YVES COLIN-MOREY LES COMBOTTES PERNAND-VERGELESSES- I`m usually very perceptive to TCA especially when it expresses as wet cardboard, but I really did not get that much to discard the pour while the others tossed it; even with continued searches, I was happy to receive nice lemon, grapefruit, apple and pear fruit with accents of ginger and spice; it was medium bodied and had a nice oily texture; for me, it definitely was drinkable and enjoyable as I worked beyond the subjective table talk.

NV EMILIO HILDAGO VINA DOLCE NATURAL RIVERO CZ PEDRO XIMENEZ JERES SHERRY- 100% sun-dried PX; 375 ml; 15% abv; dark amber color; aged in 80-100 year old American oak 500 L barrels; this was super creamy maple syrup like in texture and taste; dried raisins, molasses and almond butter also dominate taste profile and it might have been better dispensed via a dropper.

Truth be known, I’m not a big sushi fan so this evening was more about the wines and fellowship and I’m really good with that.



I’ve had numerous bottles of pycm that initially seemed corked, yet blew off into beauties. Almost like it is part of their reduction funk upon opening? More pycm wine for me when those call corked prematurely!

1 Like

Great notes! I am pretty sure the Knoll fruit comes from the Loibenberg. As I understand it, the Pfaffenberg vineyard is technically in Kremstal and not the Wachau and thus can’t go into the village-level Loibner wine. But perhaps someone will correct me.

More here, from the importer: https://www.circovino.com/newsletter/2015/09/emmerich-knoll-and-the-pfaffenberg-vineyard/

Knoll is awesome, both Riesling and Veltliner and they age wonderfully.

1 Like

I believe you are correct on all counts champagne.gif .

1 Like

We’ve had tons of PYCMs over the past few years= 100+ bottles and actually very few were corked or flawed. Regardless, I offered my wine glass for their dump bucket and boogied on.

I appreciate both of your inputs. The info I got came from their website and perhaps I misread or misinterpreted it. I’ll go back and recheck. Thanks

my 12 Peters Chetillons wasn’t great . . .

Blake, regarding the Agrapart, how do you know what vintages comprise the wine? I have a couple of bottles of the Terroir; there are two dates (2012 and 2015), but I’m not sure what they mean.

1 Like

As I understand it, these are the 2 vintages that have been combined in the cuvee.

Yes, but how do you know which two vintages are in the cuvee? How did you know that your bottle was 40% 2014 and 60% 2013?

I corrected the notes and here’s some additional info I found from their website:

"By all counts Emmerich Knoll’s Pfaffenberg vineyard should be considered a Wachau site because of its geologic characteristics rather than political borders.

Before the Vinea Wachau was formed, the city of Krems could be considered the capital of the Wachau. Krems sits next to the town of Stein, which marks the present-day limit between the Wachau and the Kremstal. The vineyards of Krems and Stein on the “left bank” seem to belong to the Wachau with their characteristic steep Urgestein terraces that run in to the Danube, however, they are technically considered part of the Kremstal. Why?! Growers in the Wachau prior to the Vinea Wachau ruling were cautious of the powerful merchant presence in Krems and were aware of the dramatic differences in sun exposure and soil composition on the “right bank” of the river, where the majority of the Kremstal lay. They wanted the Wachau’s focus on these Urgestein terraces so they petitioned Krems, including the geologically similar Pfaffenberg vineyard out of what we now consider the Wachau.

The arbitrary socio-political line separating the two appellations becomes apparent upon visiting the Pfaffenberg site in the Kremstal and the Loibenberg site in the Wachau. (Check out the video) The Pfaffenberg is made up of primary rock, or gneiss, granite and schist with a top layer of loess, and is known for producing softer, open wines. The Loibenberg vineyard is made up of gneiss and produces structured, spicy wines. The two vineyards produce markedly different wines but the main terrior characteristics of gneiss/Urgestein and steep terracing along with the fact that the two vineyards are on the same slope exemplify more similarities than differences. In this way the Pfaffenberg can be considered “An-Other” Wachau."

I matched the info on the back label with notes posted by a few critics.

Yep, it is an arbitrary line, but because of this the Pfafennberg wines are labeled “Steiner Riesling” because they technically belong to the town of Stein in Kremstal and all of KNoll’s other vineyards are in Loiben, in the Wachau. I do agree that there is no geographic border here, just a cartographic one, separating the two appellations. But the most important thing is that I have never had a bad Knoll wine and the best are profound.

1 Like

You just want to drink Riesling from a town named Stein.


1 Like

Another cool thing about this board is all I had to do was just caption “3 fine Rieslings” and that got more feedback attention than listing the producers of 3 white Burgs or the champagnes.

It has been a long time since I’ve had a Knoll wine. Back in the late '90s/early 2000s, I tended to find them more round in style than their peers. Richer, riper renditions with less of that “laser-focused acidity”. Your notes seem to straddle that line…grapefruit and oily. Can you compare to others from the Wachau? By the way, the Knoll sweet wines are pretty fantastic…

1 Like

I’m making some progress. I didn’t realize that the two dates on the label line up with two specifications on a different part of the label. In my case, the wine was bottled in May 2012 and disgorged in October 2015.

However, if I try to match up with, for instance, Galloni’s tasting notes, the closest disgorgement date is June 2015, which says it was 50/50 2011 and 2012. However, if it was bottled in May 2012, it wouldn’t have any juice from 2012 (would it?).

1 Like

To your point of question, no, my experience with these wines has been sporadic over about 4 decades.

Glad to see you are doing the research. It would have been good if I’d kept a photo of the back label or the bottle. I have to think the distributor added more info on it than what would be normally found.

We are fortunate some houses are more about disclosure and intentionally provide this info.

Glad to see you guys getting together Blake. Thanks for all the notes. The 2017 Lafon Clos de la Barre note is timely for a friend. They have it on a list in West Palm where she is spending some time. Cheers.

1 Like