Great night last night where Monday table member Andrew was in charge of putting together some 09 Big Guns so that we could get a handle on this much lauded vintage. The whites were true to form, rich, ripe and textured and the reds were quite ripe with the vintage derived creaminess. The DRC bracket was good but I think many of us yearned for a bit more detail and transparency in the wines. Again Andrew Blake did a ripping job with some Burgundy friendly food.
On arrival the 1997 Salon looked very smart, much better than a bottle Anthony and I shared last year. It had some pure white peach and mineral notes and drank like a good white Burgundy. There was pleasant creaminess in the mouth with lime brulee flavours and a big whip of citrus on the finish. The 1996 Dom Perignon was corked.
A bracket of 5 whites were served blind and we were told there were 4 from the 09 vintage and two Montrachets. If you would allow me to be braggadocios for just a moment I nailed the Montys, if you allow me to be truthful for a moment I think it’s the first option I have got right in a couple of months. The 2008 Fontaine-Gagnard Montrachet Had loads of cola oak on the nose. There were also whiffs of spearmint, coconut and ripe peach. It was explosive and sappy in the mouth with good volume and plenty of mineral to the finish. The 2009 Fontaine-Gagnard Bâtard-Montrachet was up front, exotic and a very tasty drink. There were some pineapple aromas coupled with ripe peach and crème brulee. It was rich and fruity in the mouth with good volume and outstanding length. The 2009 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet was just a bit too ripe and candied. There were exotic fruits (think guava and rockmelon) and it was very fruit sweet in the mouth. The acidity never really booted in and there was just a faint suggestion of minerals once the wine was swallowed. The 2009 Etienne Sauzet Bâtard-Montarchet was pure, rich and powerful. It had ripe peach fruits coupled with some spearmint cream. Despite all of its flesh it still possesses good rocky detail and it finishes with good chalky precision. The 2009 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet was the wine of the bracket. It was a little reduced and had a big hit of matchstick sulphur on the nose. The wood was toasty and married well with the creamy, dense orchard fruits. It was chewy and layered in the mouth and had good line and excellent underlying minerality. The accompanying West Australian Marron were just undercooked and the sweet rich meat prepared with vanilla married exceptionally well with the white Burgs. There was supposed to be a Sorrel emulsion with it as well but Andrew’s stick blender broke down so we had some sorrel on the side.
The two Rousseau big boys were served side by each (that’s Barossa Deutsch for next to each other) in the first red bracket. I think the table’s general consensus was that the Bèze just had it over the Chambertin at this early juncture. The 2009 Armand Rousseau Chambertin was sweet and floral with rich cherry fruits, good balance and a long fine finish. The 2009 Armand Rousseau Chambertin-Clos de Bèze had an engaging waft of ginger spice on the nose coupled with sweet cherry aromas. The dense sweet cherries gathered at this wines heart and it had a little underlying meatiness. It was rich and textured and very long. The 2009 Domaine Leroy Latricières-Chambertin polarised the table. It was heavily reduced and quite meaty to start with. Some oak appeared resinous but underneath was a core of cool cherry fruit. It had real depth and power with some freshly ground spice and smoked meat flavours. It was exceptionally long. Andrew noted that Leroy was quite hard to get these days. Our friend and wine importer to the stars (I’ll call him Gary to protect the innocent), imports many great Burgundies into Australia but not Leroy and Gary responded with ‘I’ve never had any troubles getting Leroy, because I’ve never asked for any!’ The 2009 Faiveley Musigny was most peoples wine of the bracket and indeed wine of the night and as a group now we have seen enough superb bottles of this rarity to understand that it is one of the great wines of Burgundy, not just a hard to get collectable. This 09 Had some camphor and aniseed aromas along with cherry and pomegranate fruit. It was beautifully textured in the mouth with great fruit and oak balance. It was lacy yet powerful and really fanned out once swallowed. I suspect the 2010 Comte de Vogue Musigny was a picking error but it was good to see this beautiful wine again. Extremely youthful with real pomegranate and cranberry crunch. There was an engaging white flower scent and the whole package is bright and crackling with energy but with real depth.
6x2009 DRC wines were then placed in random order in front of us. If I look back at my note on the 2009 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Corton it reads like Corton. Rocky, stony, chewy with some menthol and oak spice. It is an excellent wine and held up well against the rest of its siblings. I however did not pick it as Corton when asked. The 2009 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Echezeaux was sweet, creamy and generous. Black cherry fruits are laced with spice and it is long with a dry earthy finish. DRC’s GE often punches above its weight and the 2009 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands Echezeaux continued this trend. It showed some liquorice, dried flowers and sandalwood on the nose. In the mouth it was sweet and creamy but had good rocky detail and the finish was somewhat akin to sucking on a cherry stone. The 2009 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tache was the class wine of the bracket. It built in the glass and showed aromas and flavours of Hoisin, cherry skins, blood plum, aniseed and earth. In the mouth it was rich and velvety and the finish was very long. It is a good La Tache but perhaps not up there with the very best. The 2009 Domaine de la Romanée-Coni Romanée St.-Vivant had a ripe, slightly roasted coffee note. It certainly built in the glass to show some grated ginger, smoked meats and sweet cherry fruits. It was quite sappy and laden with flora, finishing with good authority. The 2009 Domaine de la Romanée Conti Richebourg was a little grumpy and shy. There were some ground spices, soy and dark fruits. Under the waves of creaminess is a core of mineral and it has a whip of tart cranberry to the finish. Andrew had prepared three brilliant savoury courses with the reds. A quail dish was excellent and the quail breasts were as plump as I’ve encountered. Lamb with new season broad beans was excellent but the star was a dish of silky pigeon breasts that were sandwiched between truffle infused pecorino and bread and dropped into the most pristine bouillon….one of the best things I’ve eaten this year.
We were given two dessert wines blind and told that one was a 2001 and one was Yquem. When Gary was asked his thoughts he said ‘I think the first wine is Yquem but if its not then the 2nd wine is’. The first wine was the 2001 Château Climens and it was in good form. It had a gorgeous nose of lavender, honey and blossom. In the mouth it was richly textured and heady but cut with acid and in perfect balance. The 1999 Château d’Yquem was crammed with mangoes, rockmelons and apricots. It was rich and layered with cream but cut with grapefruit acidity. It was a lot deeper and longer than the preceding wine and quite classy. An outstanding crème brulee with summer berries was served with the sweeties.
A couple of Ports wrapped up a most enjoyable evening. The 1980 Quinta do Noval ‘Nacional’ Vintage Portwas good but not great. It had some fresh fruit flavours as well as plenty of earthy, savoury traits. The spirit came off a little raw and there was some volatility on the nose. The 1966 Quinta do Noval Vintage Port was drinking beautifully. It was sweet and luscious with caramel, chocolate, liquorice, raisins and biscuit notes. The spirit was nice and clean and balance and length of flavour excellent.
Cheers
Jeremy
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