Another great lunch with Peter Chiu and friends! I will miss these get-togethers when I leave for France and will look forward to making them happen during my visits back to Montreal.
We met once more for great Chinese food (I’m looking at you oxtail in beef broth!) and beautiful wines.
Frédéric Savart L’ouverture
Disgorged 2017, dosage 7g/l
I started buying Fred Savart in 2014, before they were available around here. I should have bought more. I love his wines. This was way too tight a couple of years ago and I remember reading that Fred was sad that from a financial standpoint he had to release his wines too early. This is starting to hit its stride. This is crisp and fresh initially but as time goes on, it starts to open up and shows all kinds of spices. Decant or hold but this still has a lot to give. 100% PN.
The whites were mine this time and I kept remembering Peter telling me that he wasn’t buying much white Burgundy in recent vintages. This was a perfect opportunity to check in on these.
Today’s theme was: Same producer, same AOC, different vintage.
Double decanted 1 hour before service.
Domaine Henri Boillot Clos de la Mouchère 2018
Lots of reduction on the nose before the decant. This took about 1 hour in the glass before it opened up but when it did, beautiful: nose of pear, unripe honeydew, white flowers, touch of vanilla and loads of crushed stones. The palate is dense, concentrated but driven by great minerality. Saline kiss on the finish. If this is Boillot Mouchéres in a warm vintage I’m buying all day.
Domaine Henri Boillot Clos de la Mouchère 2019
4 out of 5 people guessed this was older than 2018 and from a warmer vintage. After the reduction blows off, the nose is white/yellow fruits bordering on tropical, vanilla and oak spices and all kinds of floral. Crushed stones on the nose is much less present than 2018. Same density and concentration as 2018 but the acidity is stronger yet less minerality and salinity. Today, I preferred the more mineral 2018. Time could change this verdict.
This confirms that I should keep buying Mouchères in every vintage. Great wine. Pretty long but natural corks:
On to the reds from Peter.
Michel Mallard Corton Les Renardes 2005
I now see CT notes saying this is over the hill… well not today it ain’t! Deep red showing no bricking. The nose is very expressive with red and black berries, some soft spices, briar and hints of red meat. The palate hasn’t come together yet and there is plenty of structure there. It just feels like this should go another 10 years before it reaches its peak. I guessed this was the younger vintage of the two. What do I know…
Michel Mallard Corton Les Renardes 2010
The nose seemed a little tired, showing a good dose of beef broth. It’s this nose that led me to believe this was the oldest of the two. But the first sip is awesome: a great balance of red berries, subdued spices, some stemminess and nice meaty umami notes. Very nice! My favorite of the two but I would drink this right now whereas the 2005 has yet to show its form.
The next flight of red was a step up.
Pierre Damoy Chambertin-Clos de Bèze 2013
Side by side with the 2014, this wasn’t as expressive. Still a beautiful, structured Burgundy but the nose and palate were more austere. It’s not giving yet. Black cherry and berries, some spices, and dried herbs but it feels restrained. The finish is a little short. Needs time?
Pierre Damoy Chambertin-Clos de Bèze 2014
I guessed Chambertin and Peter laughed knowing that he would never serve me the same wine two lunches in a row . Great nose: red and black berries, bunch of spices, smoky meat and red flowers. I just wouldn’t go back to smelling the 13 after this one. The palate is all there too: nicely integrated, no hollow point, long finish. Beautiful wine. I’m really starting to like Damoy!Thanks Peter.
A nice lunch on a sunny 90 degrees Farenheit day in Montreal (it was 50 last week!). Great people and a great time. Lovely.