My numbers for each of these are much lower than for my top red Burgundy producers, which makes sense as I do not want to hold white Burgundies for long periods anymore.
Have been hearing a lot about Bernard Moreau as of late but haven’t gotten around to trying any of the wines. Are there any bottlings in particular that you think are a good introduction to the house style?
Inventory isn’t very current, but my best guess is that it is Domaine Leflaive, Niellon, and either Ramonet or PYCM depending upon how much of my older Ramonet stash I’ve burned through. I only bought PYCM this year from those four. When C&E changed distribution, I lost Niellon and Ramonet in my market. Leflaive prices have continued to rise, leaving me largely on the sideline there.
The style is incisive, concentrated and elegantly textural. There’s an I’ll Drink To That podcast with Alex Moreau if you want to take a deep dive. My latest blurb accompanying my TWA tasting notes is as follows:
Vergers: lowest pH, most chiseled but not so austere it doesn’t show well young, 12 drinks well now for example
Chenevottes: the most exotic and honeyed, as is often the case with this site, planted with very old vines that give low yields, the grapes turn golden fast
Maltroie: a nice balance between texture of Chenvottes and cut of Vergers
Clos Saint-Jean: not far from Vergers on the slope, lively but expressive young, this drinks the soonest of all the 1er crus
Grandes Ruchottes: textural and muscular, some very old vines here, needs a decade of bottle age
Cardeuse: monopole in red since 1952, from the southern end of Moregot, a contender for the title of best red Chassagne being made
There are some similarities but it’s arguably a somewhat more muscular, introverted wine than recent releases from Ramonet, which have been quite demonstrative especially in the warm years. I have six of each producer’s rendition every year since 2012 so at some point I will start doing them side by side.
The Boillot whites are great, and I tend to agree with Allen’s effusive praise, though I know some friends who have been badly burnt by premox. Interestingly, Boillot started out as famous for the reds, and I have some Volnays from the 60s and 70s in my cellar from them that are magical wines. Most recently, 78 Volnay was simply stunning.