2002 Chave | 1973 Latour | 1989 Raffault | 2005 Rougeard |1985 Magdelaine
Hard to imagine a more perfect night. An impromptu night. Wife out of town. Last minute, invited three of my closest friends over, including fellow Berserker, MarcF.
Grabbed some filet mignon, organic purple potatoes, beets and asparagus. An easy grille night, with roasted vegetables. Smack some gourmet blue cheese on the filet, covered them in sautéed Vidalia onions, voila and we have a dinner.
Started with a 2002 Chave Hermitage Blanc to pair with the cheese and dried meats tray. Had some Nola sardines as well. Love the waxy feel of this wine, with its citrus and honey palate. Have to admit, it’s on its last leg, but showing some class right now. Drink up. (90 pts.)
Moved to the 1973 Chateau Latour as we started cooking the dinner. Had been slow-ox’d for about 2 hours. An amazingly delicious, alive, classy wine. Fuck the crappy vintage; this wine defies vintage. Elegant, with its range of dried red fruits and forest floor. Sweet dried fruits, soft palate, tannins fully integrated. And stayed alive all night. Circled back several hours later, and it was equally enjoyable. Incidentally, some of this wine also went into the sautéed Vidalia onions - scandalous, perhaps, but yum (91 pts.)
Next was the 1989 Raffault Chinon Les Picasses. This wine is on fire. An archetype Chinon. Honestly, best of class. Showcased all the elements that I adore in Chinon, with its hallmark bell pepper, green tobacco leaves, ash and array of red fruits. And these are sweet red fruits, crunchy cranberries and raspberries. Showcased a vein of herbaceousness for character but the fruit carried the day. Excellent depth and intensity of fruit. (93 pts.)
The 2005 Rougeard Les Poyeux was poured and enjoyed side-by-side with the Raffault. This is a whole ‘nother level of Loire Cab Franc. Arguably the best that I have had. Amazing the depth of expression coupled with the freshness of any wine that I have had before. Layers of red and dark fruits, forest floor and citrus, but underscored by a depth of intensity that was youth personified. This wine has miles to go but is shockingly good at present. If you have several, pop one now. If not, hold on for dear life, this wine will eclipse the famous 1989 and 1990 Raffaults, no competition. (96 pts.)
Midway through dinner, with a filet just excellent, grilled super hot to a medium rare on the rare side temperature, and we ran out of wine. I had in mind that 1985 Chateau Magdelaine, Saint Emilion. So we popped it. Popped and poured. Stunning. Like drop-dead stunning. And shockingly youthful. I would have guess 1998 or 2000. No way a 1985. Didn’t even have any bricking on the meniscus. Classic red fruit nose of slightly under-ripe merlot and ripe Cab Franc. Hint of menthol. Forest floor, dry earth, porcini mushrooms. And with a sweet, ripe, intensely red-fruited palate. Blood orange citrus. So bright and fresh. A truly outstanding Saint Emilion, and of a type that I doubt we will see again. (95 pts.).
Truly blessed this night. All wines fired on all cylinders. And my friends, best of class.