TNs: A Juge head-fake and a bunch of Bordeaux from ‘82 to ‘86
September 14, 2018 @ Sutton Inn, NYC
A long-time former active participant of the local tri-state wine scene, Ian, flew in for a 1-nighter from his base in London. This was the easiest excuse for the 8 of us to get together for some catching-up while imbibing on some early 80s Bordeaux as the main wine theme. It was an evening of good food, fun wines, and a very enjoyable and cordial group.
We convened at Sutton Inn for 5 (or 6, as some opted in/out of dessert) courses of dishes that impressed me more this time than the 2 previous experiences that I’ve had at the restaurant. Thanks to JC and Jim for taking care of the dining arrangement that was overall casual, yet comfortable, and I was generally positive with my steak, duck breast and the tomato salad as my standout dishes, and balanced with the courteous and efficient service on a busy Friday night dining in New York.
The Whites:
2006 Phillponnat La Léon Grand Cru
Jolted by the intense ripeness with citrus, spice and very dry chalk notes. Pleasing and long. B+
2004 Laville Haut-Brion Blanc, Pessac-Leognan
With vigorous swirling the wine started to showcase finesse with power and good balance with firm, ripe white fruit. Agree with Jayson, who brought, that this was young and tight, but I also thought that, as it is, this was already good and set-up to get better with bottle years. Long finish. B++
2005 Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc, Pessac-Leognan
Expressive bouquet, plenty of wood. Full-bodied on the plate with quite an overwhelming dose of wood and may have suffered with more harshness in comparison with the fine Laville. Jim (or Justin) said this tastes like it contains much more Sauvignon Blanc. B-
The Reds:
Flight 1
1982 Chateau Figeac, Saint-Emilion
Not part of the original-declared wines, but this is one of Jim’s generous last-minute add-ins. He said that this bottle is not in the same usually excellent showing of his his earlier bottles from the same purchased lot, but to me this was in still good drinking shape. Slight funkiness in the beginning that blew off over time. Ripe and long. B
1982 Chateu Lafon Rochet, Saint Estephe
I liked the tobacco, leather-infused nose. It came across as austere or perhaps simply appearing to have some component(s) that will never meld to form a harmonious wine. B-
1982 Chateau Loville Barton, Saint Julien
Corked.
Flight 2
1985 Chateau Leoville las Cases, Saint Julien
Heavy cabernet sauvignon presence in both the bouquet and the palate. Power and tight muscular sensation. Fine layer of firm ripe fruit with the secondary traits. Already good and I’d still say that adding on 5 to 10 years will put up another notch or 2 to the positive meter. B++
1985 Chateau Rauzan Segla, Margaux
Alluring very Margaux bouquet with floral and leather notes. High in acidity and some white pepper spiciness. Elegant mouth presence and this bottle appears to be at the apogee of its good drinking form, but with still years to keep at the same level. Good, delicious length. I’m impressed. A-
1985 Chateau Gruaud Larose, Saint Julien
Another backup bottle that was generously opened on the spot by JC. The funky, band-aid bouquet that I sensed in older Cordier wines was definitely present, and which blew away as quickly as it appeared. Ripe black and blue fruit with some earthiness. I’d love to get an opportunity to revisit with more bottle age. B+
Flight 3
The Juge Head-fake (1983 Chateau Leoville Poyferre, Saint Julien)
As I recall, it was a rush to double decant the Poyferre and the first available clean bottle that Jayson had was the 2014 Juge Cornas. A few of us kidded him about the subliminal name-brand dropping given the hot ‘privileged’ market for the Juge these days. The Poyferre displayed heavy cabernet nose and plenty of complexity with ripe fruit, graphite and good length. B+
1983 Chateau Margaux, Margaux
Young and quite backward. Strong, without doubt, Margaux bouquet. A seemingly young Padawan that’s currently trudging along and still looking to shed its youth and innocence, before gaining and harnessing all its power, complexity to lead its co-vintage to greatness. Huge potential. B++
1983 Chateau Pichon Lalande, Pauillac
The wet leaves, perfumed fruit and scorched earth on the nose. One of the youngest-tasting 1983 PLLs that I’ve come upon in recent years. Silky smooth and, pound-for-pound, showed why this consistently remains as one of my wines of the vintage. A-
1983 Chateau Rauzan Segla, Margaux
Another last-minute bottle that was not originally declared. More Margaux bouquet. Can’t help but compare to the earlier 1985 version and while similarities are obvious, this wine was pleasant enough to drink today, but still showed a little more backward and the seeming need for more cellar time to come together. B+
Flight 4
1986 Chateau Gruaud Larose, Saint-Julien
Aside from the 1982 vintage, an on-form 1986 is the best GL that I’ve had from the decade of the 80s …. and the 90’s …. and up until mid 2000s (not tasted any post 2005). This bottle is not an exception. The so-called 1986 vintage backwardness still showed, but even then the wine balances itself out, highlighted by secondary characters with black fruit, some leather, earthy notes and mineral complexity. Many happy years ahead for those that own. My WOTN. A-
1986 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou, Saint Julien
Corked.
Sweet Wines and Post dinner Sherry
1988 Chateau Climens, Barsac
Conversation ensued that his may not be a representative bottle, with what I thought of the wine being quite thin and with a clipped finish. B-
1988 Chateu D’Yquem, Sauternes
Full-bodied, fresh, silky smooth, light crème brulee, and will now be in the apogee of the not-so-many sweet wines that I’ve ever had. A-
1948 Barbeito Malvesia Madeira (hoping an attendee can chime in and provide the exact name of the bottle)
I can’t help but compare to a couple of 1928s that Jim also shared about 6 weeks back and this one was less intense, a little more alcohol on the forefront, but showed good length. B