TN: 1989 Olga Raffault Chinon Les Picasses

Perfectly at apogee. I continue to predict a few more years at this plateau. This is the archetype of classic Chinon. And it has been excellent since the very first time I had it on its long climb to here. First had it on my honeymoon in Loire in 1996. Experiencing this ascension for 20+ years has been a wonderful ride. I drink a lot of Raffault, and am not sure if any current vintage is this good, but these wines can metamorphosize, blossom, too.

Beautifully perfumed nose of tight red berries, mint, tobacco leaf, smoke, sous bois and a little hint of sweaty saddle leather. The range of aromatics is broad, ever-changing, from pop and pour to now, two hours later on my third glass. Silky initial presence on the palate, medium weight but with firm structure. Crisp acid, resolved tannins. An herbaceous, meaty mouthfeel with more air. Closes with a hint of bitter dark chocolate and espresso bean, like an old school Medoc but one would not confuse this with Bordeaux.

An absolutely gorgeous drink.

(95 pts.)

Definitely a classic. Glad to hear it’s still rocking.

Wish I had not consumed my stash. Still have a ‘90 that I look forward to opening this year.

If you enjoyed it when you drank it, there’s nothing to regret.

Very true (and I did). More lamenting that I didn’t buy more!

I do too, and had one last year. Lovely, but this 89 has another gear. I had intended to drink my remaining two side by side but my sister - a Chinon nut - showed up today and demanded a Chinon!

Also Drinking the remainder of a 94 Montrose from last night, cool showing.

That has been my impression, but the ‘90 will have to do!

That’s a good thing. Much better than feeling like you bought too many.

I should be clear, the 1990 is excellent.

Had the 85 Picasses tonight and it was gorgeous. What a nose!

Great note. Great wine. I need to pop one soon. '89 and '90 are back to back killers!

Beautiful color!

Had one recently as well and it continues to impress and evolve. Glad I have a couple of more.

How do you compare this one to the 2002.?

I had the 2002 recently. It is coming around, but it is still somewhat reticent. You can drink it now with pleasure, but it will be better I would guess after 2020.

Surprised you comment on “crisp acids”. I have always thought of this as a rather voluptuous, low acid rendition of Les Picasses. Not to say it’s not fresh or in balance, just that it’s very much broad, rather than tensile / vertical.

The sentence before I note an “initial silky presence”. I thought there was a front and a back to this wine that differed, which to me added to the complexity of the experience. I experienced good acid on the close of this wine. My humble opinion, and of course, this particular bottle. In contrast, the 94 Montrose that I finished off after the Raffault was acid front to back.

Sebastian, I’ll bring one next time we have a dinner. The 02 has not evolved to anything close to the 90 as of yet and is much fresher and vibrant in comparison…but I suspect it will.

I suspect that I really missed the ball on the 2002. Was not moved the first two times I tried it, yet some folks whose palates I really respect, love it. I need to backfill on trust.

Great stuff Robert (so which had the greener touch, the Picasses or the Montrose?!). I only had the 89 and the 02 once each, so very limited experience to take with a large pound of salt, but I certainly didn’t think that the 02 was in the same league at all - not even close!