PICHON LALANDE DINNER WITH NICOLAS GLUMINEAU - Taberna del Alabardero, Washington D.C. (10/18/2017)
Thanks to Panos, we in DC have been blessed with a number of top Chateau dinners. This time it was Pichon Lalande with Nicolas Glumineau, the general manager of the chateau. For my palate, Chateau Pichon Lalande along with Palmer, Haut Brion and LMHB represent some of the most unique expressions in the left bank.
Bijan kindly arranged with Taberna del Alabardero and we were situated in a beautiful large private dining room. Panos did an excellent job double decanting the wines. The sommelier Maria and the staff provided impeccable wine and food service. The dishes were quite good and complement the wines well, except the mackerel dish, a bit too fish to match with Bordeaux for my palate.
2010, 2009, 2005 and 2003
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2010 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Wonderful start. Beautifully perfumed nose displaying intense sweet red and black fruit, cassis dominates, also cherry and blueberry, strong floral note, a hint of vanilla/oak, caramel, a hint of spearmint, only a slight hint of lead pencil, spicy, no noticeable PL signature green/vegetal note and limestone/earth. Excellent concentration, beautifully layered, rich and sweet yet precise and energetic, very silky and fluid, noticeable very fine tannins and a seamless long sweet red fruit and flower driven finish. Telltale sign of PL’s red fruit and precision. I believe lead pencil will emerge in time but not sure about the green/vegetal note. IMO, this may develop like the 89, i.e. good density and energy. This will please both the traditionalists and the modernists. One of my top wines. (96 pts.) -
2009 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Expressive nose displaying mostly black fruit with a hint of plum, blackberry, cassis, strong PL bell pepper which is surprising considering the vintage, also strong PL/Pauillac lead pencil, coffee, a hint of burnt sugar lollipop and mineral. Very good concentration, not as polished/layered as the 10, ripe but linear, warm and soft in the middle, good acidity, fine tannins and a medium to long sweet black fruit/plum and green pepper/lead pencil driven finish. For my palate, showing strong PL bell pepper and lead pencil, i.e. seems more PL than the 10. I slightly prefer the 10’s energy, opulence and precision. I typically don’t point out the openness but the 10 seems more open than the 09 in this occasion. (94 pts.) -
2005 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Surprisingly soft, mostly warm subtle red fruits, cherry, strawberry jam, a hint of cassis, cedar and lead pencil. Medium light weight which is really surprisingly for the vintage, warm and soft red fruit, slightly lean, not terribly layered, good freshness and purity, good acidity and mineral, and a medium soft red fruit and lead pencil driven finish. This may develop like the 75 and 81 which certainly is not a bad thing. For my palate however, it is a bit disappointing considering the vintage which produced so many great age worthy wines. (93 pts.) -
2003 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Surprisingly classic, nicely masking most of the 03 roasted fruit expression, a hint of cassis and licorice, cherry, plum, grilled shiitake, cedar, bell pepper, a hint of eucalyptus, mocha, lactic and earth. Medium to fully body, silky but not terribly layered and a bit one dimensional, good acidity and mineral, and a medium to long black fruit and milk driven finish. I am surprised by the classic showing in lieu of the vintage. Not the most complex wine but really enjoyable. I believe it has reach the youthful peak but no need to hurry. (93 pts.)
2002, 2000, 1996 and 1995
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2002 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Expressive nose displaying ripe blue and black fruit, cassis, dry blueberry, black cherry, licorice, a hint of lead pencil and bell pepper, and strong earthy mineral. Impressive concentration, sweet slightly dry black fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity, a hint of bitterness in the middle and a medium to long black fruit and bell pepper driven finish. Noticeable tannins at the end. Just like the other 02 top left bank wines, it displays impressive concentration and generous fruit but feels a bit “chunky”. Still very youthful and will improve for another decade or two, i.e. if you prefer the tertiary notes. (93 pts.) -
2000 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Someone mentions the 00 Figeac but I actually like this wine as the wine is nicely balanced and show good density. The intense singular red fruit expression actually reminds me the 13 Ao Yun in a very good way. Expressive nose displaying intense sweet red fruit, strawberry concentrate, dry cherry, strong green note which is quite spicy so jalapeno rather than bell pepper/vegetal, kochujang (hot Korean pepper paste), lead pencil and limestone mineral. Very good concentration, nicely layered, good density, intense red fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity and a medium to long intense red fruit and jalapeno driven finish. Certainly showing noticeable PL green but the wine shows intense red fruit and excellent density for my palate. This will develop wonderfully for another decade. IMO, comparable to Clos Rougeard les poyeux/le bourg. If you like the style of PL, you will appreciate this wine. (93 pts.) -
1996 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Very classic refine nose displaying singular black fruit, i.e. unison polished black fruit note, very floral and perfumed, cedar, strong lead pencil and crushed rock. Beautifully integrated sophisticate palate, silky and polished, cassis and lead pencil driven palate impression, very precise, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, silky tannins and a long mineral finish. I am a big fan of the 96, so classic, pure and energetic with impeccable balance. If you prefer the energy, sophistication and precision, this is totally ready. (96 pts.) -
1995 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
It is always fascinating to compare the 95 and 96 left bank wines. The 96 is the epitome of a classic claret, so sophisticated and precise where the 95 is opulent and hedonistic, always with a hint of roasted fruit, This is no exception. Expressive nose displaying sweet black fruit, cassis, blackberry, a hint of black cherry, coffee, mocha, cedar and mineral. Excellent concentration, good density, slightly rustic and chunk mocha/roasted fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity, good earthy mineral and a medium to long opulent sweet black fruit and mocha driven finish. Still quite youthful but ready to go. Really nice wine but I prefer the 96 for the purity, precision and polished palate. (93 pts.)
1975, 1978, 1982, 1985 and 1989
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1975 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
This is a textbook example of a fully mature classic claret. Fully mature harmonious nose displaying subtle red fruit, red currant, red cherry, cedar, a hint of caramel, lead pencil, leather and earth. Fully integrated palate, still remnants of tannins that remind us the vintage, harmonious and a seamless subtle finish. It would be a wonderful wine to enjoy in a cold winter night in front of a fireplace. (93 pts.) -
1978 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
The first nose impression is exotic Asian medicine, then generous sweet red fruit, red currant, cherry, caramel, PL’s signature bell pepper and lead pencil, leather, dry tobacco and cedar. More noticeable “materials” compare to the 75, still generous red fruit, decadent red fruit, nicely layered, medium acidity, good mineral presence and a long cedar and red fruit driven finish. There is a hint of Asian medicine at the end. The note of bell pepper and lead pencil is a telltale sign of Pichon Lalande. However, a strong note of Asian medicine makes this, perhaps the most exotic wine of the night. It has reached the peak will drinking beautifully for another decade or two. (94 pts.) -
1982 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
The 82 Pichon Lalande has been one of the most consistent 82s that seems to always flirts with perfection. It combines the hedonistic opulent fruit of the vintage with PL’s freshness and energy, i.e. bell pepper/lead pencil . Unfortunately the expression on this bottle is not so clear. All the components seem to be there but the impression is slightly murky. Medium expressive nose displaying decadent ripe red fruit with a hint of cassis, a hint of bell pepper and lead pencil, cedar, caramel and strong wet limestone like mineral. There is a hint of soy like oxidative note which is unusual. Excellent concentration, nicely layered, good acidity, nicely integrated tannins and a medium to long ripe black fruit, green pepper and cedar driven finish. Really enjoyable but not the best bottle I have had. (96 pts.) -
1985 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Fully integrated nose displaying soft and round red and black fruit, cherry, strawberry water, a hint of cassis, cedar, dry leather, a hint of tobacco, lead pencil, bell pepper, and earthy mineral. Perhaps the silkiest and most polished palate, very precise, perhaps slightly lean, only a hint of red fruit, bright acidity and a medium to long seamless mineral and red fruit driven finish. Another classic Pichon Lalande. (94 pts.) -
1989 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Perhaps the most dense wine along with the 82, prior to 2010. Also the fruit seems darker than the others. Expressive nose displaying crème de cassis, plum, black cherry, licorice, mocha, bitter milk chocolate, cedar, lead pencil, only a hint of green, leather and earth. Excellent concentration, beautifully layered sweet black fruit, medium acidity, medium mineral, nicely integrated tannins and a long licorice and leather driven finish. It is drinking beautifully in a youthful way. (95 pts.)
2014, 2015 & 2015
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2014 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Expressive nose displaying intense ripe black fruit, cassis, blackberry, black cherry, licorice, ink and cedar. Excellent concentration, chewy yet silky and precise, intense black fruit driven palate impression, good acidity, nicely integrated tannins and a long finish with licorice and black fruit at the end. Despite the ripe black fruit, it retains good freshness and precision. This will need another two decades to reach the peak. It is not showing much PL green and lead pencil at the moment and I doubt they will emerge with time. Very impressive showing. (95 pts.) -
2015 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
I am not sure what happened here but the wine seems very lean. Medium expressive nose displaying sweet red fruit, red currant, strawberry jam, cheery, a hint of cedar, bell pepper, lead pencil, spicy, cinnamon and strong limestone. Medium concentration, silky, lean and precise, good acidity, strong mineral presence and a medium to long red fruit driven finish. It is very different than the 14 and the16, i.e. leaner and dominated by red fruit, very Pichon Lalande. After the dinner, Nicolas mentions that it is not a good time to taste the 15 as they are tight and lean. Hopefully it will gain weight with a few more years in bottle. (94 pts.) -
2016 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Barrel sample, obviously very primary and a bit grape juice like. Expressive nose displaying intense jammy black fruit, crème de cassis, ink, lavender, licorice, strong lead pencil, a hint of cedar and liquid smoke, bitter chocolate and earth. Impressive concentration, nicely layered with intense perfectly ripe blueberry and blackberry, quite chewy yet silky, sensual and polished, bright acidity, strong mineral presence and an incredibly long intense crème de cassis and licorice driven finish. Despite being the most concentrated wine of the night, it retains excellent freshness and purity. My WOTN. (97 pts.)
Sauternes
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1997 Château Climens - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac
Unfortunately unreasonably dark for a '97. Oxidized. NR (flawed) -
2003 Château Suduiraut - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
A quick impression, exceptional concentration, feels fresher than a couple years ago, bright acidity, ginger candy and apricot. Really delicious and not cloying. (93 pts.) -
2005 Château Climens - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac
A quick impression, exceptional concentration, opulent yellow fruit yet retains exceptional balance. Nice steely impression, telltale sign of Climens. It appears around $50 per bottle at auction which represents one of the greatest QPRs. (96 pts.)
Once again my sincere gratitude goes to Panos and Nicolas.
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