Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon is one of Australia’s most important wines. It sits at the top of the Penfolds tree a rung below Grange, having been produced since 1964. Originally produced from Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon it has been produced each year, aside from a hiatus from 1971 to 1976. From the late 70s the wine became a blend of Penfold’s best parcels of Cabernet Sauvignon and at times included fruit from Coonawarra, Padthaway, McLaren Vale and the Barossa. Coonawarra has generally contributed a component to the final blend, hence the themed dinner of the Coonawarra single bottle club last night.
The wine is matured in 100% American oak hogsheads, with a large proportion being new barrels. It is a rich, hedonistic wine. The price of 707 has skyrocketed in recent vintages, largely driven by the demand from China, where 707 has a special cachet. Here in the restaurant we have sold all of our 707 bottles and magnums over the last three years as a consequence of the burgeoning Chinese tourist market. Prior to their arrival, the cost of entry meant that bottle sales were very slow. It is noteworthy that there was no 707 available from any of Australia’s major national chains, despite the $450 price tag.
This was a special dinner at Pipers of Penola, a five course feast that included a stunning course of seared local abalone with forest mushroom risotto and black garlic.
On to the wines.
2008 Penfolds Bin 707
Big, dark chocoberry nose, sweet oak notes discernible. The palate is saturated with dark plum and cassis. Very rich and slippery, with polished tannins. Glides past the tonsils, despite its youth. Easy to like, quite ripe, reflecting the hot vintage.
1998 Penfolds Bin 707
1998 was a lovely vintage across South Australia, without extreme heat and a long, warm Autumn. This is in a lovely place. It is leafier, noticeably finer than the ’08, still with a core of cassis fruit. The palate is nicely integrated with fine and persistent tannins and a long finish. Plenty left in the tank, just entering its drinking window. When I opened the wine three hours prior to dinner it looked dumb, was all arms and legs and was showing its oak. A double decant and three hours did this wine a huge service. Great wine.
1994 Penfolds Bin 707
Very fresh, still with purple tints. Sweet, black fruits of good density. Some nice savoury black olive and briary complexity. Still quite firm, with slightly furry tannins. Needs time.
1989 Penfolds Bin 707
Lifted fruits, dark soy and beef stock notes. Really nicely integrated, round and fleshy. Lacks the fruit definition of previous two wines reflecting the hot vintage conditions. However this is a really lovely drink like my old favourite the ’89 Grange, from a rather unfashionable vintage.
1966 Penfolds Bin 707
Picked in April and bottles in September 1966. Not much oak influence. In wonderful condition, with a hint of smoked oysters that I see in old, great Bordeaux, beef stock, sweet fruits and a touch of spice. Beautifully integrated, with wonderful shape and amazing freshness for a 51 yo wine. An absolute joy.
To finish one of the winemakers brought a component of 99 Grange that was processed in Coonawarra from Kalimna, Barossa fruit. It was rich, dark, supremely youthful with incredible balance. What a treat.
