This could be one of the most unique, elegant Bordeaux that I’ve ever had. A beautiful expression of terroir.
This is a pretty under-the-radar producer. No big Chateau, no fancy wine consultant, no big-name winemaker. Just the owner. Making wine, simply, the old fashion way. No gimmicks. And a killer vineyard, right next to Palmer and possessing some very old vines. Not cheap, either.
The wine expresses this purity, this simplicity.
Pulled the cork about an hour before consuming. Second glass in, and this wine is glorious. Pretty, floral nose, tight red berries. Light-to-medium on the palate but packs serious intensity. Sweet, concentrated red fruits, minerals. Runs the spectrum of red fruits, from tart cranberries to some spicey, wild red raspberries. Showing relatively high acid for an otherwise warm vintage. Would not have guessed 2000, perhaps 2001. So many comparators that I can use here, none of which are like much of anything I have tried in Bordeaux. Like comparing a franc de pied chinon to a normal vine, the heightened intensity of red fruits, sheer materials, but with concentration. Like comparing a cool climate wine to its warm climate sibling, showing cool, relatively tart red fruits and eucalyptus, rather than an array of darks. A sweet, tight black cherry finish, however. And wood, where is it? Alcohol, only 12.5% and showing (or in this case, not showing) that percentage. Sure there is a soft balsam note, woodsy, suggesting used oak, perhaps with very little new oak added. Or, perhaps just placed into the hands of a highly skilled winemaker that lets the wine make itself rather than applying flavor to the wine.
This, is absolutely gorgeous.
(95 pts.)
