TN: Avery Family Cellar Inaugural Wine Dinner - Really old wines

WINE TALK
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AVERY FAMILY CELLAR INAUGURAL WINE DINNER - REALLY OLD WINES - Eddie V’s - Tysons Corner, VA (1/4/2017)

As some of you may already know, the Averys is a six generation family run wine merchant in Bristol, England that was found in 1793. On Thursday October 20th, Christie’s London auctioned this landmark collection. The family cellar is in Bristol where summer high temperatures rarely gets above 70. According to the Christie’s wine department, the cellar has maintained the active cooling and humidity.

Four guys in DC area decided to actively participate in the auction. Luckily, we succeeded on acquiring 160 also bottles of very old wines. The wines are from the 20s to the early 70s.

Upon receiving them, I was pleasantly surprised by the excellent appearances. There was a mag of the 55 Avery Chambertin that was leaking which was not a terrible surprise. Most of the bottles had excellent fills and sound color. As old bottles go, no great wines, just great bottles. However, our chances of having the great experiences seemed to increase significantly.

After settling the wines for three weeks, we organized the inaugural Avery wine dinner. We invited three friends to cost share join in on the festivity.

I originally planned to Audouze/Slow ox but I ended up opening the bottles at the restaurant due to the logistics. A lot of trepidation as well as excitement and anticipation, fortunately the wine god was smiling at us as most of the bottles were extremely youthful and showed incredibly well, especially considering the ages. They significantly exceeded our expectation. Having said that, a few bottles may have shown even better if Adouzed.

I used the Durand but the corks were so firm that my laguiole would have done the job. I poured the bottles to ensure not to disturb the sediments.

White
I believe the whites would have shown better if Adouzed, gaining the fruit and freshness.

  • 1934 Averys Meursault 1er Cru Charmes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
    From a half bottle. I happen to like old whites so please keep that in mind. Decadent exotic nose displaying apricot, honey, caramel, mint chocolate, spearmint and a hint of madeira. Excellent concentration, dense yellow fruit and spearmint driven palate impression, dense, bright acidity and a long finish with a hint of mint at the end. Still quite lively due to the bright acidity. (93 pts.)
  • 1943 Château Olivier Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    Brilliant medium gold color. I love old grave blancs so please have that in mind. Very unique medium expressive nose displaying welch’s white grape juice, slightly oxidized apple peel, caramel, curry, kerosene and a hint of madeira. Medium concentration, relatively simply palate, good acidity and a medium finish. The complex nose is coming from the ideal cellaring. I am really liking the petrol and caramel driven mature grave blanc nose. (91 pts.)
  • 1964 Averys Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
    Beautiful light golden color. Surprisingly energetic nose displaying sugarless apple juice, a hint of citrus, flint, white flowers, limestone and lanoline. Medium concentration, mouth puckering acidity, strong presence of mineral and a long mineral driven finish. I suspect that this would have been painful to drink young. Still quite precise and energetic which are remarkable. (93 pts.)

Burgundy - Flight 1
This far exceedded our expectations.

  • 1972 Averys Mazis-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
    Perfectly mature yet incredibly youthful nose displaying cherry, crushed raspberry, a hint of stewed tomato, licorice, caramel, smoked meat, raw button mushroom, sous bois, soy and earth. Excellent concentration, sous bois and cherry driven palate impression, clean and energetic, bright acidity, strong mineral expression and a long clean finish with cherry and smoke at the end. I am amazed by the youthful expression. Based on a half dozen samples drank recently, the 72 reds have very good concentration but lacks sophistication/refinement. My guess is that this was a pretty straightforward young wine. Nevertheless, the ideal cellaring condition helped the wine to develop the complex bouquet while retaining the youthful fruit expression. Absolutely gorgeous. (96 pts.)

Burgundy - Flight 2
The Pommard was great. The Beaune would have definitely shown better if Adouzed.

  • 1955 Domaine Jean Monnier & Fils Pommard 1er Cru Grand Épenots Clos de Citeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
    Captivating perfectly mature Burgundy nose displaying bright decadent red fruit, raspberry and cherry, raspberry jam, sous bois, raw button mushroom, cedar and mineral. Perfectly integrated harmonious palate. Compare to the 53 HdB Beaune, more complex and pure nose, and more polished palate, drinking like a GC! (95 pts.)
  • 1953 Hospices de Beaune Beaune 1er Cru Cuvée Clos des Avaux French-bottled - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
    Really fascinating wine. Only a slight hint of cherry. Adam mentions noticeable oak and I agree wholeheartedly. The oak expression is similar to what you get in bourbon which is surprising. There is also cedar, grilled matsutake, caramel, menthol and earth. Fully integrated slightly lean palate, good balance and harmony, strong mineral and earth, and a medium finish with mushroom and cedar as the end notes. I personally like the mineral and earth driven NSGesque expression. Once again, incredibly youthful, a testament to the ideal cellar condition. (92 pts.)

Burgundy - Flight 3
The bad news is that the Vogue BM was corked. The good news is that it was incredibly fresh and we have ten more bottles. I wonder if the 52 Nicolas Rolin would have shown better if Adouzed.

Bordeaux - Flight 1
I believe Adouzing the 49 Cantemerle would not have helped as the dirty damp cellar smell got worse with air. The 45 Clos Fourtet may have benefited if Adouzed.

  • 1945 Clos Fourtet - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
    Intense nose displaying raisin, sour cherry, blackberry liqueur, a hint of VA via Balsamico, cedar, sous bois and earth. Excellent concentration, nicely layered, slightly dry dark fruit and VA driven palate impression, bright acidity and a long finish with a hint of VA at the end. The VA and raisin in the nose reminds me a bit of the Ximenez 1927 but less sweet. With air, VA seems to dissipate, improving the nose significantly. (95 pts.)
  • 1949 Château Cantemerle - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc
    Rather delicate nose displaying bright red fruit, strawberry, plum, a hint of green that gives nice freshness, cedar, ash and earth. There is a hint of dirty damp cellar that is bothersome. Medium concentration, delicate bright red fruit driven palate impression, good acidity and the finish is clipped by the dirty damp cellar note. If clean, this would have easily merited 95pts.
    It is still quite enjoyable. (91 pts.)

Bordeaux - Flight 2
Drinking five perfectly stored bottles of the 29 Bordeaux was an emotional experience. The 29 Pontet Canet was near perfect! All of the 29s would have benefited by Adouzing.

  • 1929 Château Mouton d’Armaillac - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Beautiful complex nose displaying bright red fruit, strawberry, strawberry jam, brandy-soaked cherries eucalyptus, beef jerky and a hint of ash. Fully integrated harmonious palate, silky and polished, and a long subtle finish that resonates. Really serious and absolutely delicious at the same time. I highly recommend if you can source a properly cellared bottle. (96 pts.)
  • 1929 Domaine de Chevalier - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    The softest and warmest nose of the night. Shy red fruit, plum, dry orange peel, a slight hint of cassis, smoke, a hint of madeira, cedar and leather. Medium concentration, warm and soft, cedar and shy red fruit driven palate impression and a medium finish with the dry orange peel and cedar at the end. Definitely past its peak but still enjoyable. (92 pts.)
  • 1929 Château Beychevelle - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
    Intense nose displaying cassis, a hint of VA, dark caramel, cedar, madeira without much oxidation, a hint of leather, lactic, dark spices and balsamico. Excellent concentration, incredibly layered, quite dense and oily, bright acidity and a long dark fruit and balsamico driven finish. For my palate, very nice showing despite the noticeable VA. (94 pts.)
  • 1929 Château Pontet-Canet English-bottled - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Perfectly harmonious hedonistic nose displaying decadent red fruit, raspberry, plum, a hint of cassis, caramel, rose, cedar, leather, sous bois, sesame and truffle. Perfectly harmonious palate, layers up layers of exquisite red fruit, incredibly polished and silky, and a seamless finish that resonates. The precise reason why some of us are so obsessed with the old clarets. (99 pts.)
  • 1929 Château Pape Clément - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    A bit more maderized than the other 29s, red fruit, cherry, plum, ash, cedar, leather and VA. Excellent concentration, noticeable VA, bright acidity and a medium finish with a hint of oxidation at the end. Still quite enjoyable. (92 pts.)

This certainly was a fascinating emotional experience. Sharing the experience with six other friends who share the crazy passion in wine was priceless! I am really looking forward to the next Avery dinner!
Posted from CellarTracker

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Wow, what a line up. Thanks for the notes.

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No Madeira? Averys was famous for their Madeira in the 50’s and 60’s. Mainly bottled for them by the Madeira Wine Company.

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The Madeira lots were pretty strong. Beside, our main focus was Bordeaux and Burgundy.

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Bloody hell. The sale was a huge success but hadn’t realised you lot bid! The family don’t have masses of Madeira left so didn’t put much in the sale.

I’ve had many of their older wines over the years. Given John’s connections with the USA I’m pleased some off his wine’s being enjoyed over there.

Cheers,
Matthew

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Matthew,
I have never had the corks that are so sound, on par with ideally stored '82 bordeauxs. Does the family still have these old gems? I totally regret not being agreesive on the trophy lots.
Kevin

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Thanks for sharing, that’s quite a memorable experience in so many ways.

I’m not surprised that the Bordeaux from the '20s showed so well. I’ve only had a rare dude from Bern’s, whose cold cellar is at 49 (if I recall correctly). Do you know what temps the Avery cellar maintained?

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Nice line up. Have a vague recollection of us talking about doing this, but very vague. Glad they all showed so well.Would love to have drunk that 29 Pontet Canet with Alfred Tesseron. Not sure if he’s ever had a bottle, or at least one in that condition. Great work ,and thanks for posting.

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What an awesome set of wines to share together! Even better that a bunch of you shared in the responsibility of obtaining and enjoying together - BRAVO.

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Incredible Kevin, and thanks for sharing. Old Bordeaux is always a reminder of what makes Bordeaux special.

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I looked at the sale and decided not to bid, as so many of the fills seemed incredibly low.

When I look at a cellar where there is a significant percentage of wines with a good deal of ullage, it is usually an indication there is something wrong. I was shocked at some of the prices realized even for the low to mid shoulder fills, and I am happy to read that they showed so well.

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It is fascinating how the perceptions differ. We decided to bid on the auction based how great the fills were in general. The corks from the dinner were better shape than the Berns’ bottles. All the 29s were top shoulder or into neck. All of the 72 Vogue were .75 to 1.25 inches. Amongst the 12 bottles of the 59 Lynch Moussas, all into the bottom neck except one which is top shoulder. As the matter of fact, out of 162 total bottles, only couple are mid-shoulder. Considering that the youngest wine is the 72 Vogue, not too shabby.

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The Average High/Low Temperature in Bristol. I didn’t ask the cellar temperature but the corks from the dinner were better condition than the Berns’ bottles.

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
High °C 7 7 10 13 16 19 22 21 18 15 10 8
High °F 45 45 50 55 61 66 72 70 64 59 50 46
Low °C 4 3 5 6 9 12 14 14 12 10 6 5
Low °F 39 37 41 43 48 54 57 57 54 50 43 41

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Eddie,
We still have two bottles left, one from the same bottler, the other may be a chateau bottling but need to check, of the 29 PC.

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Kevin,

The wines stored in the company cellar came from our bonded warehouse - privately owned, not stored with LCB, Octavian, etc. The customer reserves cellar there is climate controlled and held at (from memory) 12c.

Many of the wines in the sale came from the family’s cellar held under their home. This is a classic, underground, English country house cellar. It’s passive but very stable, cold and pretty damp. The house is on a hillside in Somerset and the cellar dug into the hill.

Shame about your mag of 1952 Hospice wine. I took a bottle of the very same to Beaune a couple of years ago and drank it with Roy Richards at Maison du Colombier - it was old fashioned Beaune but in very good nick. I suspect the reason there were so many 1929s in the cellar was that it was one of Ronald Avery’s favourite vintages. He rated it as significantly better than 1928, where he felt the tannins were too hard, and Averys subsequently bought very heavily in that vintage. I’m pretty sure it was the first vintage of Petrus that we shipped.

Cheers,
Matthew

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Thanks for sharing!

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Kevin,
There were were many wines with decent levels, but looking through the catalog, there were enough with low levels to make me wary of the overall cellar conditions. You obviously chose carefully, and the results were fine, and I am delighted for you.

I do know it wasn’t just me who was unhappy about the levels. I talked to a couple of UK merchants who also decided not to bid at that auction. That did not stop prices from being incredibly high, which shows that bidders were happy to pay a premium for the Avery provenance.

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Mark,
Considering the ages, the fills in general were more than fair. I actually thought the prices were fair, i.e. trophy lots were still lower than the current market and the estimates were extremely conservative.

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Mimi Avery is a dear friend of mine. I admit that I’m spoiled and have had the good fortune to have lots of old bottles from the cellar. Because they have not moved, even the ones with low fills that we’ve had have been great.
In fact, we have had fun drinking what we can only assume were samples and special bottles for John as they sometimes only have a small note for a label.
I’m happy to read you’ve had such great experience with the wines as well Kevin!

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Christies seemed pretty upbeat about the results. Here is part of their press release.

INCREDIBLE RESULTS

FOR THE AVERY FAMILY CELLAR

EXCEEDING ALL PRICE EXPECTATIONS

Yesterday’s mammoth eleven hour, three session, wine auction in London produced incredible results throughout. Over 150 bidders registered for the sale, which represents a global record for any wine sale at Christie’s. We witnessed global, competitive bidding for historic vintages of some of the world’s iconic wines. Highlights included eleven bottles of Château Latour 1945 which made £38,000, and a full case of Petrus 1995 which fetched £20,570. Rare Burgundy was strongly represented in the sale; three bottles of La Tâche 1985 hammered down for £11,495.00, smashing through its pre-sale estimate, and the legendary 1990 vintage of Chambertin from Domaine Armand Rousseau achieved £9,680 for 4 bottles. Elsewhere, rare Californian wine was offered with Château Montelena 1974 making £1,936.00 for a perfect full case. This perfect provenance sale from one of the UK wine trades well established families pushed the prices of historic Bordeaux and Burgundy to new levels. Michael Broadbent MW, who was in attendance at the auction and is this year celebrating the 50th Anniversary of the Wine Department at Christie’s said that ‘This is undoubtedly one of the finest and most comprehensive collections of old and rare wine ever to appear at auction’.