A couple of excellent meals during a trip to San Francisco, most of which have been discussed many times before, but which are worth an update or another data point. I went a bit overboard with the reservations, and we practically rolled home….
Maresa – we finally made it here for dinner on our first night in the area. Both my husband and I had and cancelled reservations more than once over the last few years, due to changes in plans or travel disruptions; so we were excited to finally make it this time. We had an early reservation so got to see the lovely dining room with plenty of light streaming in. It really is very pretty, inside and out. We found the service to be excellent, walking a fine line between formal and friendly. We chatted and laughed with the servers and with Aaron, our sommelier that night (long time somm Jeff Bareilles is now at Atelier Creen in SF – more on that later), who was particularly knowledgeable and enthusiastic. We’d brought a ’96 Deutz Cuvée William Deutz rosé, and bought a bottle off the list as well, so corkage was waived. Aaron was very helpful choosing something that would match with the food. The food was very good, delicious and expertly executed. We enjoyed every single course. Still, there was something missing……The food came across as a little too manicured, without the “groan” factor that makes me want to eat it again and again. To illustrate: Jonathan and I don’t particularly like desserts, so we usually ask for a repeat of one of the savory dishes on a tasting menu (unless the kitchen is willing to make something else savory). We spend most tasting menus considering which course has “dessert potential.” At Manresa, though we really enjoyed every course, there wasn’t a single one we wanted to revisit. To be clear, though, it was a truly memorable and wonderful experience, and the service in particular was a standout.
Chez Panisse Café – I don’t care that it’s a bit of cliche by now, we go here every time we’re in the area, usually for lunch. I had a meeting in San Ramon, so it was an easy stop-off on the way back to my next meeting in downtown San Fran. The food is always satisfying and pleasing and fresh. The restaurant is nostalgic for us both, as we’ve been going there for ages before we even met. It’s an important kind of restaurant, to be there for so long, turning out delicious food day after day, and packed day after day. No, it isn’t earthshattering or innovative at this point, but it makes us happy. A bottle of Bandol rosé and a few dishes to share make for an excellent afternoon interlude.
State Bird Provisions – this is, hands down, one of the most fun and exciting dining experiences to be had these days, if you like some swirl and shake around you in the room, and amazing food on your plate. Yeah, getting a table can be a pain in the neck, and I get why some people would be turned off. We were lucky enough to get an assist for a reservation this time (thanks!!!) and had great seats right at the end of the open kitchen so we could watch everyone in action. The dim sum type presentation of many of the dishes is really fun. I’d eaten here before, but Jonathan had not, so it was like experiencing it again for the first time. The food is brave and interesting and unapologetic, without sacrificing an ounce of pleasure. It’s also smart and kind of magical in the way each dish can combine sometimes crazy ingredients into something that is greater than the sum of its parts – yuba and kimchi primavera was perhaps the dish of the night! And it has definite groan factor! The service is warm and friendly and relaxed, though more than competent. The warm welcome we received from every server and from the cool sommelier, not to mention from Stuart, the owner, was very special. We brought a bottle of NV Egly rosé, which was perfect with the food, and which was enthusiastically received by the staff. Maybe it’s not for everyone, but it’s definitely for us.
Atelier Crenn – go here. Seriously. The food is f’ing amazing. It’s got all the best of execution, quality ingredients, smart design, creativity, intellectual interest, deep understanding of flavors and almost relentless dedication to making a comprehensive whole meal. Dominique is, in my opinion, a genius. I’ve eaten here 5 or 6 times now and am always impressed. This may very well have been my favorite meal there so far. We treated two friends who had done us a good turn, and who don’t usually go to this kind of restaurant, and they were both transported. These are open minded eaters, but not foodies by any means, and they did not find the food the least bit off-putting or pretentious and weird. On the contrary, they loved it. Service, while good, is not quite up to the level of the food, I’m afraid, being a little awkward and unsure of where on the formal/friendly spectrum they want to fall. An exception, however, was Jeff Bareilles, whom I mentioned earlier has moved from Manresa. Jeff is great – excited about wine and wine pairing, very knowledgeable, but with a child-like glimmer in his eye. His service was spot on, and we really enjoyed talking with him. It will be interesting to see what he does with the list as he has more time to build it. This is a very special restaurant and I would highly recommend it if you are looking for a memorable meal of that variety. Between Crenn and State Bird, I’ve rarely eaten better in a 48 hr period.
Commis – in Oakland, on a cute street lined with shops and restaurants. It’s definitely more upscale than the neighborhood, and is very slickly decorated. Overall, we liked, but didn’t love the experience there. The service was very cold and seemed distracted, and a little annoyed we were there. We’re pretty friendly and could hardly coax a smile out of our main server. The rest of the staff was fine, but didn’t seem to care much about the restaurant or the food they were serving – no enthusiasm. Front of house makes so much more of an impression than many chefs and owners realize! I suppose the actual service was fine and pretty polished, though we felt rushed through the meal, particularly at the beginning. The food was good, though. Two or three dishes were very good, with true depth of flavor and inspired touches -particularly a potato soup with manila clams and smoked trout roe, and the final lamb dish with toasted grains - and all of them were VERY pretty. We left having enjoyed the meal, but without a real desire to go back. There’s no doubt in my mind that a better front of house presentation would have made a real difference. Or maybe if we’d been seated at the counter, which we requested, but couldn’t get. The chef clearly has talent, perhaps has some growing to do, and I’m glad I went there.
Ramen Shop – also in Oakland. We met the owner Sam White in Kyoto, of all places, and promised to visit his hot ramen joint next time we were in Oakland. So glad we did! The ramen is excellent, both noodles and broth. While not exactly traditional, it, and other fun menu items, are yummy and satisfying. There’s a good beer and cocktail list, friendly service, and a high energy atmosphere. Worth a visit.
Koi Palace – another place that’s maybe a cliche, but we always stop here for dim sum on the way out of town since it’s between SF and the airport. I’m not well versed enough in all the area dim sum options to make comparisons, but I know that Koi Palace always hits the spot. If you get there before 11, it’s only about a 15 minute wait, even on a Sunday. This time, there was a delicious tart with minced chicken and a whole abalone, which was great, and the gai lan was particularly good – very tender and fresh and not a trace of bitterness. Request it only with garlic, as their oyster sauce is especially sweet.