TN's: 2 days of Heaven: aged Lambics and Gueuzes (& an Orval) -- @ Akkurat Bar in Stockholm (w/pics)

Sometimes, luck is on your side.

Case in point:
Last Saturday.

My wife, Ashley, and I were walking back to our hotel, with her sister, after having just disembarked from our brief mini-fjord “cruise,” which also included a stop at a brand new museum built by the owner of the Hipp baby food brand. As we walked up Hornsgatan (a main street close to the hotel at which my wife and I were staying), each of us was feeling a bit weary, and we were all looking forward to a nice afternoon nap.

Not more than a block after Ashley and I split off from her sister, Abbey, we wandered by a beer bar that appeared to specialize in American craft brews — they had signs/banners/whathaveyou from the likes of Oskar Blues, North Coast Brewing, Anderson Valley Brewing Co., and others hung on the pillars outside. I drifted closer to their outside bar and noticed they had Boon’s Kriek Lambic on tap! Hey, now that’s not an everyday sighting!!

Still, I merely commented on this fact to Ashley as we continued towards our hotel, to which she responded, “You know, we could grab a beer if you want.” “I wouldn’t turn it down, if you’re interested.” And, such was the manner in which we wandered into, Akkurat, one of the greatest beer bars in the world.

Once inside, I spotted an opening at the far end of the bar where I thought I could belly-up and order one of the twenty craft brews they had on cask or tap. Once over there, however, I noticed a ridiculous array of whisky and bourbon staring back at me from a coliseum-esque arrangement. A couple Port Ellens were calling my name … alas, the siren call of a special Cantillon – on tap(!) – lured me away. Upon closer inspection of the tap pulls, I realized this place had not one, but TWO Cantillon brews on tap — one of them being the “Lou Pepe” Kriek Lambic. “Holy shit, they have Cantillon’s “Lou Pepe” Kriek on tap, Ash!” Upon hearing this, a man named Claus, decked-out in a Cantillon shirt, himself, pointed-out that today Akkurat was celebrating a cherry festival (?), or something like that. Anyways, the point of the whole matter was that Akkurat had a special offering on Kriek Lambics and Gueuzes running that day, at which time he handed me the special menu, as pictured here:

Prices are in Swedish krowns (“SEK”) (100 SEK is approx. $15)

Naturally, Ashley and I decided to split a 15cl pour of each one, as well as a Cantillon “Lou Pepe” Kriek.

The lineup, from Left to Right: Cantillon – “Lou Pepe” Kriek; 2002 Drie Fonteinen – Gueuze Kriek; 2000 Cantillon – Lambic Kriek; 1998 Hanssen’s – Kriek; 1998 Boon – Oude Kriek; 2008 Cantillon – Lambic Kriek

L to R: Cantillon – “Lou Pepe” Kriek; 2008 Cantillon – Lambic Kriek; 2002 Drie Fonteinen – Gueuze Kriek; 2000 Cantillon – Lambic Kriek; 1998 Hanssen’s – Kriek; 1998 Boon – Oude Kriek


It goes without saying, the beers were lots of fun to taste:

Cantillon – “Lou Pepe” Kriek
– on tap –
– tasted non-blind from a straight-sided glass over approx. 1.5 hours –

Bright pink-red color. Somewhat sweet on the palate. Slightly funky/farmhouse-y. Very good.

2008 Cantillon – Lambic Kriek
– from 375mL –
– tasted a single pour non-blind from a curved glass over approx. 1.5 hours –

Rye cracker, wheat cracker, and ruby red grapefruit on the Nose. Very sour on the palate, with light to moderately intense cherry flavor. Excellent.

2002 Drie Fonteinen – Gueuze Kriek
– from 375mL –
– tasted a single pour non-blind from a curved glass over approx. 1.5 hours –

No head. Gentle Nose with a sweet cinnamon note. Tastes like a Yankee Christmas candle smells — spicy, woodsy, slight hint of baked cherry; odd medicinal note, too. Very good, but doesn’t seem to be as well-structured as the Cantillons.

2000 Cantillon – Lambic Kriek
– from 375mL –
– tasted a single pour non-blind from a curved glass over approx. 1.5 hours –

Thin, long-lasting head. Nose was deep and rich – didn’t really smell aged at all. Similarly, the palate was quite youthful, with a delicious full and deep flavor, marked with intense acidity. Excellent.

1998 Hanssen’s – Kriek
– from 375mL –
– tasted a single pour non-blind from a curved glass over approx. 1.5 hours –

Brownish tint to this one. Nose was woodsy, earthy, and sour; hint of burnt toffee; Nose also showed a very strong resemblance to the thin dry membrane that covers Spanish peanuts – not the shell, but that paper-like reddish-brown covering. Light bodied on the palate. Quite sour, with Jolly Rancher flavors of green apple and cherry on the palate. Clearly more advanced than all other beers tried today, but this is not a bad thing: this might be drinking at its peak right now, and it’s a thoroughly wonderful beer. Very good to excellent.

1998 Boon – Oude Kriek
– from 375mL –
– tasted a single pour non-blind from a curved glass over approx. 1.5 hours –

Thin, long-lasting head. Nose shows baked cherries and a hint of oxidation – kinda “casky”. Very wine-like on the palate; medium-light bodied; sour, but not as much as the ’98 Hanssen; not as deep as the Hanssen, either. Very good.


During our conversation with Claus and other local regulars it was pointed out to me that Akkurat holds a Top Ten spot on Ratebeer.com’s Best Beer Bars in the World list; they all thought it was hilarious that a lambic geek such as myself literally just happened into the bar, and on a day when they were doing this special aged Kriek lambics tasting, ta boot!  I don’t blame ‘em for laughing --- I basically stumbled into heaven.  Before I left, I took a look at their bottle list (30 some pages long).  Here’s some shots of their gueuze/lambics pageS(!)  Totally effing mental:

![](http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r511/grafstrb/81A8EB5A-174C-4EA6-A833-DE6D82A11241-127-0000002432C7AA7E.jpg)

![](http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r511/grafstrb/6DE4A4C4-FED6-4C72-855E-8360D152F82B-127-000000242ABCEC65.jpg)

![](http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r511/grafstrb/28E6B9B3-EF97-4093-ABFA-BBA2FF589480-127-0000002425E229A3.jpg)

![](http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r511/grafstrb/11CA36E6-393C-44DD-9717-C4DC603640FA-127-00000024210C6EE0.jpg)

Note, this is (part of) their list of 375mL’s --- they have a separate section for their 750mL’s(!!!)

![](http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r511/grafstrb/7C8945D5-249F-4027-8303-C4CA6027242B-127-000000241C6AB5F7.jpg)

![](http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r511/grafstrb/C18E2C0B-8BE0-4645-B95D-6959486F41D8-127-0000002417DFCF3C.jpg)

![](http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r511/grafstrb/CE3C9863-1E5D-48CB-A833-07DE9AFA5E18-127-0000002413085CCA.jpg)
\
\
Their aged trappist, saison, Flanders, English, and even American selections were equally eye-popping.  This place could put me in the poor house so fast --- it’s a good thing I live in a different country!  As we left, we had already made plans to return the following day.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
\
\
**The following day:**
The previous day was merely a tease.  On this day (night, actually) we would finally dip into what may be the greatest collection of gueuze located anywhere outside of Belgium!  In the name of wanting to sample a greater number of beers, we opted for 375mL bottles over 750’s.  It was a flipping awesome time, that was punctuated with great bar food (mussels and stuffed potato skins), as well as a great live band (blues rock).

[u]Here was our damage[/u]:

[u]**Flight 1:**[/u]
**1998 Hanssen’s – Oude Gueuze**
-- from 375mL --
-- tasted non-blind from a curved glass over approx. 1.5 hours --

NOSE: Spanish peanuts membrane (just like the 1998 Hanssen Kriek Lambic); smells considerably more dried-out than the ’97 and ’98 Cantillon Gueuzes; cement; mint; hint of washed rind cheese; moderately+ expressive.

BODY: hazy yellow-orange color is slightly lighter than the hazy orange color of the Cantillons; no head; light to medium-light body.

TASTE: Spanish peanuts; hint of sweetness – Jolly Rancher – but it really doesn’t come across as sweet; earthy; sour, but not mouth-puckeringly sour like the Cantillons --- rather, this is  more like an apple cider, and seems to have reached its peak; I can’t imagine this has much room to improve, and its price (95 SEK, which is approx. half of what the Cantillons cost) seems to suggest the same (i.e.: time to move these!).  It was very interesting to compare this to the Kriek version, from the previous day --- I wonder if the Spanish peanut membrane note (which was quite prominent in both beers) is a product of the vintage or the house?  Very good: 7.0 – 8.0/10.

![](http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r511/grafstrb/9ECAD11E-6C07-4CFE-B583-F89464D98CDE-127-000000242F5AF6F5.jpg)

![](http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r511/grafstrb/E1708432-BBF3-4029-94E8-695F4E9280C1-127-000000243D62D2FC.jpg)

---------------------------------------------------------------------

**1997 Cantillon – Gueuze 100% Lambic**
-- from 375mL --
-- tasted non-blind from a curved glass over approx. 1.5 hours --

NOSE: funky/casky; citric; moderately+ expressiveness; more “winey” than the ’98 vintage of the same; hint of orange peel.

BODY: light hazy orange color; no head; light bodied.

TASTE: very lemony sour; starting to become wine-like, but still has time to go; hint of shellfish on the long finish; moderately broad, with a pretty good drive from the palate’s front to back; definitely more rounded than the ’98; excellent: would be a 10/10 for me, but for its placement next to the stunning ’98, which is superior, so I guess I have to go 9.0 – 9.5/10 on this.

![](http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r511/grafstrb/0CAE1773-3E09-41A3-A764-595E22E73793-127-0000002440D306C7.jpg)

---------------------------------------------------------------------

**1998 Cantillon – Gueuze 100% Lambic**
-- from 375mL --
-- tasted non-blind from a curved glass over approx. 1.5 hours --

NOSE: similar to the ’97 (“funky/casky; citric; moderately+ expressiveness; hint of orange peel”), but more citrus present; not as dried-out/casky as the ’97; moderately expressive.

BODY: light hazy orange color (same as ’97); more head than the ’97, although it dissipates quickly; light bodied.

TASTE: incredible tartness --- this actually tastes young; hint of casky must; steely; lemon and gooseberry fruits; slight floral cherry note, too; incredibly complex; coiled and tense; needs more time.  Stunning: 10/10.

![](http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r511/grafstrb/3915D74A-3FA6-4946-8B95-0BBF55621877-127-00000024446E714C.jpg)

---------------------------------------------------------------------
\
\
[u]**Flight 2:**[/u]
**2001 De Cam – Oude Geuze**
-- from 375mL --
-- tasted non-blind from a curved glass over approx. 1.5 hours --

NOSE: expressive; white peach or underripe peach; varnish; a touch minty with considerable time in the glass.

BODY: light hazy orange color; medium-light bodied; thin, quickly-dissipating head.

TASTE: lactic; intense sourness; typical high-quality gueuze flavor, but perhaps a touch milky; 6.5% alc. not noticeable; tastes extremely young; needs time.  Excellent: 9.0/10.

![](http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r511/grafstrb/CBAE7EF8-30AE-4819-82AA-B8841617F154-127-00000024485BB7A4.jpg)

---------------------------------------------------------------------

**2002 Orval**
-- from 375mL --
-- tasted non-blind from a curved glass over approx. 1.5 hours --

NOSE: Belgian spices; steamed root vegetables; liverwurst; bread grains; moderately+ expressive.

BODY: yellow-tan color; thin, foamy head; medium bodied.

TASTE: very light; no longer has youthful drive; nice finish, albeit of light intensity; earthy, dried out, hint of leather.  For my palate preferences, this is past peak.  6.2% alc..  Has a Best By End date of July 3, 2007 on the label.  No rating.

![](http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r511/grafstrb/A1AA495C-A814-450B-BBDE-8FB7835FD3FE-127-000000244C2BC82A.jpg)

---------------------------------------------------------------------

All in all, a pretty ridiculous couple stops at this world-class bar. <img src="/uploads/db3686/original/2X/0/0ff9bfcdb0964982cd3240b6159868fbdf215b1a.gif" width="24" height="18" alt="[cheers.gif]" title="cheers"/>

You are an animal

Brian have you had any of the more recent Hanssen’s Oude Gueuze?

A whole bunch of 2008 showed up recently here, but without tasting I couldn’t pull the trigger.

Yes, but it was a couple years ago. It was very good, but, imo, not as good as Cantillon, Drie Fonteinen, or Girardin. I’ve recently tasted my first bottles of De Cam and Tilquin, and would put those of those above Hanssen, as well. That said, if the price is right, go for it.

[shock.gif]

That vintage list gave me wood. Good thing the bar at the store is waist high.

Nice job Brian, totally envious. Thank God you didn’t go near a Racer 5 neener

Cheers…

Bud

Nice. Your post sure features the letter ‘K’ a lot… :slight_smile:

Nice!!!

Haven Gastro Pub here in Orange did a Sour Ale Week with different styles featured each day. Sadly, I missed out, and after this post I feel even worse about it.

Thanks, Brian! Jerk! :slight_smile:

I miss the place already. If it didn’t take 11 - 13 frustrating hours to get from my house to Stockholm, I’d plan a return trip with haste. Anyways, I’ll get my fix when I head to Belgium in a few weeks — and we’re bringing our car for that trip, so you know it will be stuffed to the gills with goodies upon our return. [grin.gif]

As previously noted, the rest of their bottle list was equally ridiculous ---- it would take me years to drink through everything I’d want to try. I should have asked to see their cellar, but it didn’t occur to me at the time.

I might have done it, Bud, if they had any! [wink.gif]

You’re welcome! neener

Very very nice. I am jealous. In fact, if you told me you had stumbled upon a 61 Bordeaux tasting, I am not sure which one I’d be more jealous of.

and I’m not sure which I’d rather happen-upon!

seriously, I had absolutely no clue what I was walking into when I entered the bar. Talk about good fortune!

I have seen the holy land. Now I must plan my pilgrimage. You truly are a lucky man.

For another point of view, I think Hanssen’s Gueuze is excellent. Personally, I would rank it right up there with Cantillon, and very close to Girardin and Tilquin, which are now probably my favorites. Hanssen’s has been aged in the bottle for at least 3 years before release (which is why 2008 is the current release), and I think that must be beneficial. To me, it’s a funkier style than Cantillon, with more of the barnyard aromas, probably more so than Girardin also or any current release lambic I’ve had. I really like that about it. It still has all of the citric qualities I look for, and of course, intense sourness. I’d say try some if you still have access. Even if you agree with Brian’s assessment, I don’t think you’d be disappointed, as it is quite good by any standard and has a bit of a different flavor profile from those of the other producers I’ve had.

Doug,
Have you tried Chapeau’s Gueuze? I think you may like it quite a bit.

No, I haven’t. any idea if it makes it to the US?

Ehhhh, I don’t know. The only time I’ve seen it was in Kracow. It’s definitely on the funky side — so much so that I ordered a second bottle when I thought the first one might be corked; as it turned out, neither bottle was corked, it just showed extremely farmhousey for the first 15 - 20 minutes after opening.

Thanks for the input Doug, as of last Friday there was still about 20 bottles on the shelf. I think the $26 price tag scares most people off.

Whoa! At that price, I’d skip it. Of course, palate preference can have something to do with that. You should be able to find Cantillon, Girardin, Beersel, Tilquin, and Drie Fonteinen for cheaper (and, imo, they’re all better). Additionally, you should be able to find Boon for less, and I consider Boon to be Hanssen’s equal.

On the other hand, if that’s the only gueuze in town, you could certainly find many worse ways to spend your $26. Look at it this way: that bottle of Hanssen’s is much better than many $26 bottles of wine that you would buy without even batting an eye.