The reason this place is called Bond is that you have to be James Bond to find it. Tucked in the western hills of Oakville we meandered past the Harlan vineyards and miraculously made it on time for our appointment with Scott Gould. It was a cold, still winter’s morning and low fog had enveloped the area. Scott took us to where there is usually a remarkable view I assume and opened a bottle of Krug M.V while we got to know each other a little better. Now that’s a way to start a visit. The Krug was fresh, rich and intense. With some red fruits, biscuit and brioche and the usual Krugy nuttiness.
Everything about Bond reeks of quality and a sense of perfection. The winery is small but perfectly functional. The cellars are sensational and almost 100% new oak is used. Most of the small team on hand have been here for a while and seem to love what they do.
Scott had organized for us to taste through their 2010’s in the main building. What a building it is too, using much local stone and wood it has a Zen-like calm feel. Large windows frame the views from each side, framing the fog beautifully on this particular morning.
Bond make 5 straight Cabernet wines from 5 distinctive Napa Valley single sites.
2010 Bond Melbury: The soil here is mainly compressed clay. The nose is expressive with notes of baking spice, smoke, cassis and cedar. It is sweet and round in the mouth with some refreshing red fruit notes and a little sour cherry. There’s sweet tobacco and it has tannins that are spherical but there is some chew to the finish.
2010 Bond Quella: This site is an ancient riverbed, all sand, stones and gravel. The nose is fresh and inviting with some mint, blue fruits and cassis. Fruits in the mouth are highly perfumed and it is a wine of good elegance and balance that builds through the palate and fans out on the finish.
2010 Bond St. Eden: This one’s off iron rich volcanic rock. There are notes of black fruit, tar and menthol. It is generous, plump, sweet, fruity and rich.
2010 Bond Vecina: It’s volcanic soil here again, without the iron rich stuff. A wine of serious grunt. Ripe blackberries and sweet tobacco abound on the nose. It is luscious and loaded with black fruits. There’s massive structure just below the flesh and a solid graphite core. Length is impressive.
2010 Bond Pluribus: This vineyard has the highest elevation of the 5 and is volcanic bedrock. Complex aromatics of smoke, pine needle sap, blackberry and menthol. It is dense and dark in the mouth and feels like it may be just about to enter shut-down mode. There is real depth and finish that is chewy and showing some sweet cedar.
A huge shout out to Scott for organising such a thoughtful and engaging visit and his warm hospitality.
Cheers
Jeremy