Ted Lemon is one of the old guard of The Sonoma but you sense that he still possesses exactly the same amount of passion and vigor as he had during his first harvest. He was kind enough to spend a couple of hours with us and he and his trusty dog Bo toured the vineyards and winery facilities as well as showing us their set up for making the biodynamic preparations.
It is the vineyard and the soil upon which it grows that Ted believes is the biggest contributor to ultimate quality. He has the utmost of respect for the various terroirs he farms. Having also spent a few vintages at some of the great Domaines in Burgundy, including Roulot and Dujac, his preference seems to be for elegant, savoury wines that are picked early enough to maintain freshness and show great fidelity and transparency.
Ted chooses to show taste his reds before the whites, which I like. He was kind enough to show us a couple of older things so we could check in on them to see how they were developing.
2015 Littorai Pinot Noir Les Larmes: Crisp red berry fruits. Some lovely spice. Fresh and vibrant with good detail and excellent cut.
2014 Littorai Pinot Noir Mays Canyon: Deeply pitched with red and black fruits. It is really stony and fresh in the mouth with outstanding depth and some tannic grip to the finish.
2014 Littorai Pinot Noir Savoy Vineyard: This one’s very mineral on the nose. There’s also the scent of fresh violets that envelop the nostrils. It has a strong acid spine and tart red berry fruits but lacks no flesh.
2014 Littorai Pinot Noir Cerise Vineyard: This one’s grown on a steep, rocky slope. It is very fine with aromas of flint, Arum lilies and red berries. It is compact with good focus and intensity. The finish has great detail and persistence.
2014 Littorai Pinot Noir The Haven: There’s a touch of spice to the aroma and flavour profile. It has red berry and cherry fruits. It is quite velvety in the mouth and builds through the palate, fanning out on the finish. Length is good.
2007 Littorai Pinot Noir Savoy Vineyard: Starting to take on some underbrush and earthy traits as well as a little root vegetable. It has lovely sweet fruit and there’s plenty of flesh in the mouth. It still has stony structure.
2007 Littorai Pinot Noir Cerise Vineyard: Some pine needle sap on the nose as well as spiced plum and cherry. It is full, plump and round on the palate with good depth and excellent persistence.
2014 Littorai Chardonnay Charles Heintz Vineyard: There’s white peach, tangerine and candied pear. It is complex with a core of sweet fruit and good cut to the finish.
2014 Littorai Chardonnay Thieriot Vineyard: This one is more citrus in character and there’s wonderfully pure white peach notes too. It is full and sappy with chalky dry extract to the finish.
2001 Littorai Chardonnay Thieriot Vineyard: Developed and ready to go. On the nose there’s ripe fig, toast and vanilla. It is buttery rich in the mouth with good breadth and shape and a finish that drives on.