Julian – Below are some Nebbiolos that I particularly liked when I was tasting around Barolo and Barbaresco in late August and September. (I posted full notes from the trip here.)
A note on appellations: Nebbiolo grown within the Barolo and Barbaresco DOC zones has to be labeled as Nebbiolo Langhe, not d’Alba. Nebbiolo d’Alba is from some delineated areas outside the Barolo and Barbaresco zones near Alba. In addition, there are nebbiolos from Roero, across the Tanaro River, where the soils are different and the grape is rendered somewhat differently. I’ll leave others to comment on nebbiolos from other parts of Piedmont and Lombardy.
Among recent vintages you’re likely to find, 2011, 2013 and 2015 are warmer years and are likely to be fruitier. 2012 is more restrained but the wines often have terrific aromatics. 2014 was a more difficult year, with rain in early September, but nebbiolo is the last grape to be harvested and I tasted a lot of good 2014 reds of all types notwithstanding the weather issues.
Brezza: 2013 Nebbiolo d’Alba – Vigna Santa Rosalia: This wine comes from a hill just west of Alba, between the two B and B DOCs. Very good concentration/depth, with fruit and a real backbone of tannin and acid. A baby Barolo. This was the first clue for me that it will pay to seek out the lesser wines in 2013.
Oddero: 2013 Langhe Nebbiolo: From 25 to 40-year-old vines in the Santa Ambrogia vineyard and younger vines in their main Barolo sites. Eighteen months in botte. Nice body, lots of fruit and grip. A half bottle also showed well the next night at dinner.
Fratelli Alessandria: 2014 Langhe Nebbiolo: Seven-to-eight-day maceration at a lower temperature than the Barolos, then 10 months in botte. Lovely floral nose. Medium concentration with good tannin and acid. A very good outcome from this vintage.
Vajra: 2014 Langhe Nebbiolo: From young Barolo vines plus fruit from the Cascina Bertone vineyard in Sinio near Serralunga, just outside the Barolo DOC. The fermentation is 15-20 days and it’s aged all in steel. Notwithstanding the challenges of the vintage, this turned out well, and I guess I’ll have to question my view above that nebbiolo needs some time wood. This is less ripe than the ’09 and ’11 versions, which I own, and not on a par with the ’11, which punched well above its weight. But it’s still good.
Cogno: 2015 Langhe Nebbiolo “Montegrilli”: Aged in steel. Lovely floral nebbiolo scents. Also very solid wine.
Cortese: 2014 Nebbiolo Langhe: From younger vines in Rabajà, the exclusive source of Cortese’s Barbaresco. Twelve months in Slavonian casks. Nice nebbiolo perfume. Decent, lighter body. Balanced.
Rizzi: 2014 Nebbiolo Langhe: 60% younger Pajoré vines, the balance from the Rizzi vineyard. Elegant, lighter bodied but good fruit. And this bottle had been open for five days. I’d guess it would have showed better earlier on, but it was no slouch.
Other Langhe Nebbiolos that have been reliable over the years: Produttori di Barbaresco and Burlotto. As I said above, most good Barolo and Barbaresco producers bottle at least pretty good Nebbiolos.