Evangelho - An under-appreciated California Grand Cru for my Euro-palate

Last night we drank a bottle of 2011 Bedrock Evangelho Heritage Wine which was stunning. Before opening, I expected a typical California Zin / mixed-black nose, but didn’t find that at all. Rather it was driven by a high-toned perfume, rather than sweet fruit, I suspect a result of the Mourvedre and mixed-whites. Truly unique, a little haunting, and more than a little enthralling. On the palate, the wine also was nothing like I expected. It had both a density and lightness at the same time, the sort of thing one sometimes sees from Grand Cru burgundy. It is hard to describe the body, and I understand those who claim medium, but I think the very fine tannins and touch of whites fool us, and it has more structure than at first glance. Anyway, I could sense the Zin more than on the nose, but the other varieties added complexity, acidity, and a fantastic freshness. Yeah, I could drink this all night.

I suspect CT and professional reviewers give this wine middling scores because it doesn’t resemble other mixed-blacks or zins in any way. For me this is what makes it magical. We opened two other bottles (to remain nameless) after, and we both just wished for more of the Evangelho. Alas, we have only one more bottle, and I dread drinking our last. California Grand Cru for $30. This was hands-down my favorite Bedrock wine yet.

I visited Hardy Wallace of Dirty and Rowdy a few months ago and had a similar experience out of barrel. All their 2014 Mourvedres are good, with the SVD’s a step above the blends. Of the Mourvedres they bottled in 2013, I most preferred the Antle, and the 2014 again seemed to be top of the heap with a similar profile. But then Hardy presented the 2014 Evangelho. Wow, both the perfume and concentration were noticeably a step above the others, and I will buy all I can. This will be a truly amazing wine, and I suspect it will be the consensus best red from their portfolio.

Anyway, Evangelho vineyard, in the right hands, can clearly produce terrific wines. Given the chance, don’t miss them. But, shhh, please keep it a secret just between us.

Never thought I would hear a Zin blend being compared to a Burgundy GC. Now i am curious!!! I might actually try it.

It’s funny but given the chance to pull one cork, Evangelho or some GC Burg, with the killer asteroid bearing down on terra firma I’d never waste a second reaching for the BR.

Another Evangelho Vineyard bottling that I rarely see mentioned on the board but which is well worth seeking out is the one from Precedent Wines (the label of Thomas Fogarty winemaker Nathan Kandler). It’s labeled as a Zin (since it’s mainly that variety) but it’s a field blend like other Evangelho bottlings.

I have heard a couple of winemakers state recently that their Mourvedre wines were more Pinot-like or more “Burgundian”. One was a wine proprietor based in WA state who bottles RRV wines, and the other a wine maker of “forgotten vineyards” who bottles a Mourvedre from Mt Veeder.

Ken, I have been shopping around for a good Evangelho red. I remember tasting Contra Costa County reds, including a Zinfandel, that had almost a decade of ageing on them some years ago. One was a Cline from 1998. They were very subtle, and reminded me of something akin to Pinot Noir. I see that a few wineries are selling Evangelho wines, and I want to find a soft, gentle, age-worthy bottle. I have a Bedrock, but do you have any suggestions???

One of my favorite CA wines is

** Jade Mountain Mourvèdre 2005
Ancient Vines 1890 (!)
Evangelho Vineyard
Contra Costa Cty, CA
This is a wonderful wine. Fairly deep red-brown. Nice nose, fruit and a bit of leather. Medium body, silky palate. Notes of raspberry, blackberry, spice, and pepper. Beautiful balance, good length. A complete pleasure to drink, almost floats into your mouth.


Just opened the last bottle I have down here–starting to throw sediment, but it’s still wonderful! Sadly, it’s not made any more (I think the last bottling was 2005), the vines were sold to “Bedrock, Hess Artizen, and Neyers” according to Frank Evangehlo himself.

It’s the deep sand, dry farmed, own-rooted vines, and delta breezes - like no other vineyard on earth.

[resizeableimage=1024,709]http://www.tempered-light.com/images2/_DSC4967.jpg[/resizeableimage]

I love Bedrock Evangelho but for my palate both the Sodini & Kirschenmann are far more “Burgundian,” especially the latter.

Alex,

I try not to use the word Burgundian at all, even for Pinots, and certainly wouldn’t for either the Bedrock or the D&R. I think most people who use it mean “light” which, of course, rarely applies to top burgs anyway, and certainly wouldn’t apply to my notes.

My post was just about the impressive distinctive terroir and intensity to the wines that is surely due to the ancient vines, the sandy soils, and other factors per Larry above.

I like me some Kirshenmann, too!

Those vines are really incredible! And IIRC the mourvèdres have even thicker stems. Planted in 1890!

Gotcha Brady and the use of quotes in my response wasn’t to imply I found fault in your post, apologies if it came off that way. If anything, reading all this really makes me wanna open some Bedrock!!

Larry - awesome photo. Love E.V. vineyard wines as well… especially bedrock.

The 2011 evangelho was special and i certainly didnt give it middling scores. The acidity integration in that wine was amazing.

Im waiting on my 12 and 13s to turn that corner.

Thanks for the write up. I have not been moved by Bedrock wines but sounds interesting.

Jason

Totally agree with everything being said about Evangelho. Another good bottle from this vineyard for the money is made by Three Wine Company. You can usually pick them up online in the low $20’s.

Happened to spot this mention of the Precedent Evangelho Vineyard Zin this morning:
SF Somm Shares 5 Wines to Drink Now and 4 to Sip Later

2012 Precedent ‘Evangelho Vineyard’ Zinfandel, Contra Costa Country, California
The Evangelho vineyard was planted in 1890 on its own roots which is a rarity nowadays. “This zin is bright and full of fresh fruit, with concentrated blackberry and blueberry notes.”

Drank a Kirschenmann a week ago. Burgundy never ever occurs to me, but relatively speaking, and perhaps at gunpoint I’d agree on Kirschenmann, but Evangelho is more feminine to me than Sodini.

I called the Kirschenmann “CdP without the heat” the first time I tasted it.

Does that make it Burgundian?

The '11 Evangelho was really special, but a total outlier very cool vintage in CA and IIRC this was Morgan’s first year with the vineyard and he was just getting leftover blocks. They have much more selection over they blocks and control over the farming and picking, so I’m expecting even better in the future, but for those who really loved the '11 I don’t expect it to be typical.

I popped the '12 last week and thought it was excellent