Many thanks to Mark Golodetz for this thread, the responses it has prompted and the memories it has evoked.
NV Louis Martini Mountain Burgundy (from half gallon) – About 1960, when my compatriots were drinking a German beer called Lowenbrau, or rum, preferably 151 proof. I found this much better than either. Sadly don’t remember who first offered it to me.
NV Gallo Zinfandel (from gallon) – In 1963, when I entered college. During the Monday night poker game, a guy won a pot and threw a dollar at the guy old enough to buy. He said “Next week, buy the gallon of Gallo Zinfandel instead of the Gallo Burgundy, it’s a buck more and worth it”. I don’t remember his name, but I owe him. After the guy threw the dollar, I paid attention to the Gallo Burgundy in my glass, then the next week to the Zinfandel. OK, I got it. In those days, probably 100% old vine Sonoma.
1970 Chateau Leoville-Las-Cases – In 1973. Myron was one of the people in the group hippy house, his dad gave him a mixed case of Bordeaux 2nds for Christmas. Myron was leaving for Alaska, knew I liked wine, gave me the case and told me not to touch anything for at least 10 years. The day after he left, I cracked this. Could barely gag down a glass of what I thought was Ptrid Swll. Left the rest of the bottle on the kitchen counter. Nobody touched it. The next night, the light bulb went on.
1947 Jadot Beaune 1er Cru ‘Avaux’ – About 1973, bought from Calvert Liquors in D.C. (now Calvert-Woodley). Just stunning. Lurid pale orange color, fresh as a daisy, to coin a hackneyed phrase, with incredible layers of density and no sign of age or decay.
NV Foppiano Petite Sirah (from half gallon) – Bought a few years later, jug-handle with a screwcap. I was impressed, bought a case of six, decided to lay them on their side in my basement and age them for 10 years. Opened one mid-‘80s, I wasn’t rating at the time but easily mid-90s. Called everybody I knew who liked wine and went through the case in two weeks.
1976 Chateau Palmer – Served to me and Sally at lunch at Chateau Palmer, early 90s. Then again, opened blind about a year later by Robert Parker during dinner at his house. Me and David Schildknecht asked to identify. Hem and Haw. Sally states “It’s ’76 Palmer”. She wasn’t asking a question. Parker’s jaw drops to his waist. Mine drops to my knees.
1953 Maximin Grunhaus Abtsberg Natur (from 375ml) – Early 90’s, served blind at dinner by Carl von Schubert to me and Robert Parker at my Chinese friend Stuart Berman’s Mandarin Cafe in Silver Spring Maryland. Parker, a good taster, says he thinks this has some bottle age, probably mid 1980s. I’d been to Grunhaus and thought I knew better, guessed 1971. Hey, better off by 18 years than 32, I guess.
1960 Gemello Santa Clara Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, signed (“made by me” Mario Gemello) – Purchased at the Gemello store behind the bowling alley in Mountain View sometime in the late 70’s. Consumed in the mid 2000s. Perhaps the greatest California Cabernet I’ve ever had. Much as I love Pinot and Burgundy, there is something about fine-grained density that speaks, no, roars to me.
1961 Hermitage ‘La Chapelle’ Jaboulet-Aine (from 375ml)
Consumed in 1982 at the greatest wine dinner of my life, at Vivarois, a now defunct Michelin *** in Paris. For apps, Sally had curried oysters, I had fois gras. I ordered a VT Gewurz. When I ordered it, the sommelier, who looked and walked like Charlie Chaplin, looked like he’d been hit by lightning. I had picked the only wine on the list that worked with both apps, Gewurz for the curry, VT for the foie gras. The exchange went like this, in mixed bad French and English:
S: “You like wine?”.
D: “Yes!”.
S: “I have some good half bottles in the basement, not on the list, shall I bring some?”
D: “Yes, but I’m on a budget”.
S: “I will not hurt you.”
D: “Bring ‘em!”
This was one of the immortals (probably still is, if you can find it). Sorry to leave out the 1976 Leflaive Batard, the 1971 Long-Depaquit Les Clos, the 1969 Lamarche Grand Rue and the 1964 Cheval Blanc, all billed for $50, that’s total, not per 375ml.
1959 Domaine Pegau Chateauneuf-du-Pape – I cooked a duck at Pegau, by invitation. This was early 2000s, I can’t be more precise. Paul and Laurence were battling as always, up and down to the cellar. Just before dinner, Laurence came up to me, eyes wide, and said “There were five bottles of 1959 down there, now there are four!!! No label on the bottle. This is to Chateauneuf what the 1960 Gemello was to Cabernet. A monument, with harmony and subtlety. Hands down the greatest Rhone varietal I’ve had.
I see that there’s only one white wine and no Champagne on this list. But I’m defining the important moments, not the greatest wines. Today I drink about 1/3 each red, white, pink. That’s not counting bubblies.
There are things more important to me than wine, but wine has defined much of my life, providing punctuations, as well as my livelihood. I am grateful, not as much to the beverage as to the people who make it and the people who love it.
Dan Kravitz
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