That Mourvèdre rosé of Larry’s is excellent. And regarding Sarah’s great post, it would be a good match with that octopus, whereas a halbtrocken seems pretty random as a substitute.
I think a lot of it has to do with the grapes used and more importantly, the purpose of the wine.
If it’s made just because the winery wanted to bleed off some juice, the grapes will have been picked to make a red wine. They’ll be riper than you might want and the rosé is likely to be less satisfying. But there are many people who are growing and picking specifically to make rosé.
In Rioja, as well as other places, they would mix red and white grapes, which seems perfectly acceptable to me as a way to bring about yet another dimension to the wine. That’s no longer allowed in Rioja, which seems silly, but people who are more willing to experiment are trying it elsewhere, including here in the US.
In much of Spain and France, the rosés are based on Grenache and they were meant to be simple wines. In the 1970s, things like Lancers were popular, but were considered déclassé by “real” wine lovers and then when white Zin came around, that was the nail in the coffin for rosé. Funny thing was, because people “knew” that rosé wasn’t supposed to be sophisticated, they called it “blush” wine. It had a little RS and again came to define the category.
But it seems a little crazy to dismiss an entire approach to wine as somehow being deficient. Some wines come in white or pink versions - Vinho Verde and Txakolina for example, both nice summer wines. And then there are more interesting things like you find in Collioure, where they’ve been growing various colors of Grenache for years, often fermenting them together, sometimes making fortified wine, sometimes even sherry-like under flor, and sometimes pink still wine.
For me, choice is always good. Sometimes an uber ripe, oaky wine is what you feel like having. Sometimes a lean, green, mean wine is more enticing. Sometimes an austere white is what seems appropriate, and sometimes a classy, crisp, aromatic and complex rosé is what seems right at the moment. Because I’ve had less from the US than from elsewhere, I’ve spent a good part of this summer exploring CA rosé - there’s a lot of good stuff out there. If you’re looking for a good example, start with Larry’s.