"World Class Wine List" At A Restaurant?

WINE TALK
1

I heard an add on the radio this morning for a local steakhouse (which I like their food very much) and the announcer stated that they have a “World class wine list”. The list is very steak-centric no doubt, and it is reasonably priced for the Dallas steakhouse scene. My question is what constitutes world class? Is it depth in First Growths, all the Napa Cults, DRC and Leroy, Super Tuscans & Piedmont Reds that would be steak/beef friendly? Or to make that claim, do you need a good amount of bubbles, rieslings and white Burgs?

2

Bill, you know I’ve thought about this a lot in the past. To me, it doesn’t really seem hard to have a “world class” wine list if money is no object and you’re not worried about pricing your patrons out of their comfort zone. Traditionally, I think the steak houses fit that bill because they cater to the expense account clientèle. Just get a wide variety of Cali cults and 1st & 2nd growths from a ton of good-great vintages and you’re 90% there.

However, to me, a world class wine list very much involves value - interesting and varied wines at a reasonable cost. It doesn’t mean necessarily inexpensive. Locally Lola (as you well know) was the clear winner (although the wine list has been pretty picked over now that he’s closing). Extensive representation of wines around the world at all price points and you can count on the fact that Van would never put plonk on his list - period.

So, having a “world class” list is not impressive. Having a great list with reasonable prices relative to retail is rare and beautiful.

Chris

3

Not making the claim in a radio ad or via a banner on the outside of your establishment is a good start! [whistle.gif]

In my experience, a claimed “World Class” wine list is very different than a “Good” wine list:

World Class:

Overpriced (Anything 2x over retail is overpriced IMO)
Standard selections - reads like the portfolio book from one or two of the major distributors.
The “list” is actually a hard bound book - which I see a lazy, shotgun approach. They try to impress the novice hundreds of selections, but in reality it reads like the stock list at the local supermarket - no vintage depth and nothing that is off the beaten path.

A Good List:

Fair pricing - 1.5x to 2x over retail
Focused selections that go well with the menu - shows a thoughtful professional is behind the wine program.
A blend of ‘old faithful’ wines and different/new labels from established appellations, and lesser known parts of the world.

There are always exceptions to the rule, but I’m to the point that I’ll just order a beer if I don’t like what I see on a wine list - both in terms of availability and price.

4

At the Acker auction on Sept 9th, the 2000 Lafite sold for $19,360 / 12 = $1613.33 per 750ml:

http://www.ackerwines.com/archives/Results.cfm?AuctionID=167&LotID=266418

It would not make very good business sense for a restaurant to sell that wine for less than about $2000.

Which is not to say that there are no restaurants selling their wines for less than auction value, but if they are, then it just doesn’t make good business sense.

5

I think that in order to be ‘world class’ you need to win a Wine Spectator award… [stirthepothal.gif] [whistle.gif] blahblah blahblah blahblah

6

Win or pay for? newhere

7

Like everything else in wine, its in the eye of the beholder. World class to me would be full of Cali Cabs, French and Us Syrah, CDP, Cali Pinots and some Aussies. For whites only German, Austrian and Alsace Rieslings. That would be the ultimate list for me. If I found a restaurant with incredible depth and fair prices on Burgs and Bordeaux, it would mean didly to me. Im sure (because Ive seen it) that the opposite is true for many people.