Winery-visits - Impressions (Ch. Ste Anne, Domaine Tempier and Ch. De Vauclaire)
For what it’s worth, given the forced stay-at-home time that allowed for more available non-work-related opportunities and with some prodding from Ilkka (TN: 2016 Château Sainte Anne Bandol Blanc (France, Provence, Bandol) - WINE TALK - WineBerserkers), I unearthed photos and organized some notes, all from memory, on a visit to a few wineries in Provence in early February.
Copious notes and writing down impressions were simply not the best use of the moments spent with folks who took time from their busy schedules to attend to us during the visits. Listening and absorbing the moment were the more fun and appropriate order of the day.
Chateau Ste. Anne (Bandol)
I had given up on visiting this winery after not having had any response from my email until after the 3rd week since I sent the request and a couple of days before we left for this trip. So, I moved schedules to accommodate a 1 hour drive, as this was a destination that I was excited about as the winery is known for being one of the initiators of the country’s primary and earliest natural wine organization.
Raphael met us as I parked our car at the gravelly parking lot and directed us to sit by the stone-carved table under a large tree next to a building structure that is off of the main chateau and which I found out was the winery-production building. No English was spoken throughout but when drinking good wines in the affable company of Raphael, and with my wife capably helping with the translation, I had a quite a thorough experience of the wine styles on tap.
If I can generalize the rosè (don’t remember vintage tasted) and the white (2018), I was pleasantly surprised of the appealing floral aromatics that they both offered. Especially by the white, and I’ve had a few natural whites from other producers and I’ve always noted how their smell had veered more towards the agricultural character which often do not appeal to me.
I actually have notes on the 2018 Ch. Ste. Anne Bandol Blanc posted here:
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As for the reds, Raphael brought out and opened a 2016 Cotes de Provence and a 2013 and 2016 Bandol classique bottling, as well as a 2016 Bandol Cuvee Collection. The mixed blend Cotes-de-Provence was fruity light, but with that earthy component that served only to remind me that this is of natural style. Both 2013 and 2016 Bandol are, as I recall 100% Mouvedre. Clearly a notch above the Cotes-de-Provence in every aspect. I was smitten with the Cuvee Collection’s higher intensity and seeming vin-de-gard qualities that I purchased a couple of 2013/2016 for posterity.
Near the end of the visit, a sweetish fortified wine was brought out and which was smooth and nice to finish with. Not sure if the wine was commercially produced or sold.
Good, friendly folks there. Fun visit.
Domaine Tempier (Bandol)
I’m not aware of any classification of wineries in Bandol but if there is one, Domaine Tempier would undoubtedly be in the highest category in the region. I drank mostly Provence wines during our 5-day stay in the region and it’s clear that Tempier, with the intensity, craftsmanship and unmatched complexity of their wines, are in a higher level than any.
A seeming busy day when we arrived at noon, as there was a trade tastings about to happen in next hour, we were warmly received and welcomed by Julia from Sales in the small tasting saloon in main office bungalow building, Here she described the historical context of the Domaine and explained some of the philosophies behind their wine productions and farming practices, as laid out and instituted by the Peyrauds from day 1.
In-between walking out to tour the main wine-making facility in the antiquated-looking next building where the large vats and stainless steel fermentation vessels are housed, as well as viewing the various vineyards from strategic vantage points in the property, Julia opened fresh bottles and poured for us to sample:
2018 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosè
2018 Domaine Tempier Bandol Blanc
2016 Domaine Tempier Bandol
2018 Domaine Tempier Bandol
I’ve always thought of their rosè is the flagship bottling among the rosè made in Bandol, but it was the blanc that was a revelation for me with its smooth-rich approach, the floral aromatics, the citrus notes and pleasantly long finish.
As for the reds, these have been tried, tested, and proven over the years. Both the 2016 and 2018 Bandol Rouge was still tannic, but with a fine balance, density and that delicious savory notes. Clearly evident were the utmost care and high-level of dedication that are accorded to the production of these wines.
By the way, I’ll note that the effort, time and friendliness provided by Julia, as well as the courteous “hellos” by other workers who busily walked in in and out of the tasting saloon or passed us by while in the production building, added to my admiration and respect to the team behind this operation.
Chateau de Vauclaire (Coteaux d’Ax-en-Provence)
Along the way to our day drive, from our base in Aix ,to Gordes and environs, I spotted a degustation sign for Chateau de Vauclaire and decided right there and then to see if they will accommodate a quick tasting or if I can purchase a bottle or 2 to take with us and drink with out planned market-bought picnic lunch for the day.
Charlotte Sallier, owners’ daughter and current winemaker, came out looking like she scrambled into putting on a winemaker’s coveralls, and visibly surprised that a couple of showed up on morning weekday. She was genuinely very cordial, extremely hospitable and understatedly showed appreciation that we came in to try her wines.
I recall that she opened 2 bottles of rosè, a white and 3 bottles of reds for us to taste.
Wines were very much in the southern Mediterranean mode of ripe, with plenty of warm climate fruit. The softness and high level of fruitiness were the hallmark characteristics of the wines, not over-the-top in texture and flavor, but sufficiently tame that, I suspect, would go well with local foods.