Wine impressions 9-2-26
2021 Domaine Rolet, Trousseau Arbois - 13% abv; there is a lightness in the aromatics, color and weight that belies the penetrating flavors of the wine; bright, cheerful and yet of whole cloth - the wine opens to all the right notes. Just hitting its stride but this is my last bottle so . . . ah, well . . .
Fine.
2016 Ferrando, Carema - (white label) 13.5% abv; funky on first opening but 30 minutes later, it’s the elegant side of Nebbiolo; aromatically dusty and bright, a touch of sous-bois, lively and fresh; lightweight, feminine but with intensity and focus; good length; a complex but complete wine. Nowhere near peak but excellent now with a decant. Brilliant with red sauce pasta.
On day three, I notice the high tones of Nebbiolo more than anything else. And there is no drop off in quality or intensity. Lovely stuff.
Fine.
2020 Ferrando, Carema - (black label) 14% abv; no funk here but again the elegant side of Nebbiolo, a bit more structured and intense but similar to the white label. No sous-bois, mid-weight, complex and lightly tannic. Has a long future in the cellar but drinks well today with eggplant pizza.
Fine.
2022 Bruno Giacosa, Arneis - 14% abv; this wine is quite ripe, a bit shrill and not something I want more of. I will say, however, that producer expectations enter into my evaluation, as well as a small amount of experience.
I’m pretty sure this wine was acidulated, it’s certainly very ripe and out of focus (although the fruit is lush) and the acid sticks out in an odd way. I don’t see much future in holding this and I don’t find much pleasure in drinking it.
Fair.
(Aside: Giacosa was the gold standard but this wine and several other recent reds have convinced me that it is no longer; inflated alcohols, added acid, misshapen, simple, over-ripe wines that remind of grocery store stuff. Whether climate change, lack of skill or both, this house is a “no buy” from now on. A shame.)
2023 Zlatan Otok, Bilo Idro Marina Cuvée - Croatian wine from the island of Hvar, several indigenous varieties in its cepage, brings its own stamp: weak tea, lime, oyster shell, lemongrass; its all delivered on a bright, shimmering, lightweight fruit brine that defies description. This will not be everyone’s fav but it’s among mine.
Screw cap.
Fine.
2022 Drouhin-Vaudon, Chablis Les Preuses - 13% abv; a little sharp upon opening but opened to a mineral driven but fleshy Chablis with energy, slender fruit, excellent cut and even now, complexity. Stoniness underlies this wine and it surely has years to peak.
Fine.
2020 Pieropan, Soave Calvarino - 12.5% abv; most impressive is the depth of this wine; great fruit, energy and acidity but the nuance of each penetrating flavor and the sustain are special. This has benefited from aging but could easily go farther. I don’t think I’ve had any Soave that is this striking.
Very fine.
Best, Jim