Wine Berserkers Weekly Burgundy Appellation Tasting Series Week 4: Chambolle-Musigny

WINE TALK
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Thanks, Charlie, very nice.

My favorite maps of Burgundy are from Vinotopia.

And from Bill Nanson’s Burgundy Report.

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Yesterday I posted about Chambolle-Musigny in terms of wines of elegance and exquisitely delicate lacy texture and structure, yet with full perfume and intensity of flavor and grip on the palate. Previously, some have doubted that this vision of Chambolle-Musigny is valid as a signature of the terroir, but rather reflects the house style of certain producers. I would agree that the actual datapoints of the wines would fit better with my description if we could make a few changes…

  1. Move Bonnes Mares out of Chambolle, and plop it down in Morey or Gevrey instead.
  2. Move Domaine Roumier (and maybe de Vogue as well) out of Chambolle and into Gevrey.
  3. Move Domaine Fourrier into Chambolle, along with Joseph Drouhin.
  4. Maybe even slide Clos des Lambrays south into Chambolle, and place it where Bonnes Mares used to be!
    [snort.gif]

Despite the above, I stand by my vision of what distinguishes Chambolle-Musigny from its neighbors. Roumier’s wines are certainly dense and muscular and solidly structured. Tasting blind, one could fail to discern that young wines from Bonnes Mares or Les Cras or even Les Amoureuses are from Chambolle. But I believe they evolve to display their origin, even if only when tasted alongside comparable Roumier wines from other communes. From 1995, for example, Les Cras speaks clearly of fine Chambolle lace and delicacy, while the MSD Clos de la Bussiere and Charmes-Chambertin do not.

Or consider Jean-Marie Fourrier. Tasting one of his Gevrey 1er crus blind, one could easily guess it is from Chambolle. But line up Fourrier’s Chambolle Gruenchers in one unmarked decanter, and a Gevrey 1er cru in another, and the commune signatures stand out more clearly, IMO.

A partial summary (YMMV)…

Delicate, ethereal Chambolle: Bertheau, Fourrier, Joseph Drouhin.

One step removed, very pure: Mugnier, Clavelier, Hudelot-Noellat(?).

Another step, more muscular: Barthod, de Vogue(?).

Masculine, firmly muscular: Roumier, Jadot.

I’m very interested in what others think about the character of the commune versus the style of the domaine. What say you?

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Lewis, great description of the various Chambolle producers.

2002 Vogue - Chambolle Musigny -Premier cru.

Ruby color. Reticent nose yields boisenberry, blueberry, and a hint of strawberry.
Spicy, rich, dark cherry flavors with real depth. This is a serious, concentrated wine with length to burn. Ethereal musigny flavors that, for me, sit in the perfect spot of the Burgundy flavor spectrum. A slight hint of Morey flavors adds complexity. This is still young but definitely approachable. An excellent example of why Chambolle produces some of my favorite Burgs.

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The extensive range of 1er crus of Ghislaine Barthod offer a good example of how Chambolle wines made in a muscular, dense style often tend to evolve over time to display their Chambolle-ness with delicate textures and red-fruited elegance. Her Beaux Bruns is perhaps generally less distinguished than some of her other crus, but the '01 did not disappoint…

Ghislaine Barthod 2001 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Aux Beaux Bruns. Dense color, initially very garnet, but 30 minutes of air brought forth a brilliant red-garnet. Old leather and discrete minerality on the nose and palate, and tart acidity at the 30 minute mark, but at 60 minutes pure cherry fruit joined in as well, and the acidity mellowed. There is sous bois, leather, spiced cherries, and crushed limestone minerality. Wonderful balance and fine grip from acidity more than tannin. The finish fans out a la peacock tail. Outstanding, ready now but time in hand.

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About a year ago I was just starting to cellar Burgundy and I attended a tasting of Perrot Minot’s 2007s and 2008s with Martine Saunier. The tasting is written up on Richard Jennings’ blog. I think the 08 Chambolle was the first Chambolle I had cellared since a couple bottles of 83 Bouree Bonnes Mares that I found on close-out for $15 back in the early 90’s.

Today I revisited the two wines I purchased from that tasting:

2008 Perrot Minot Bourgogne Rouge (mostly or perhaps all declassified Gevrey if I remember correctly): Brilliant light red. Iron, earth, leaf and strawberry nose. Not overtly tannic but has a nice touch of firmness to an otherwise velvety feel. Medium body and excellent balance. Lovely wine at this level.

2008 Perrot Minot Chambolle Musigny Vielles Vignes: Darker ruby, also brilliantly clear but doesn’t have the gemstone appearance of the Bourgogne. Nose runs more to cherry and flowers, with a streak of iron and slate; very classy. Maybe a touch of oak but nothing out of place. On the palate, a bit stern, firmer and slightly fuller. No problem drinking this now but I think it will show better with more time. Will revisit tomorrow.

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So far…my favorite village…

  • 2008 Domaine Bertheau (Pierre et François) Chambolle-Musigny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny (4/16/2012)
    After having my first and only Bertheau wine(1990 Les Amoureuses) a month or so ago…I can TOTALLY taste that wine in this wine! First thing…it’s rustic. Slight cloudy, rustic feel…has great fruit, kind of simmered fruit, like making cider with real fruit…killer spices! Dusty earth tones, white pepper, dried rose petals, little menthol, leather. Has a distinct orange spice acidity, as well as leather to it. Not as deep and profound as the Amoureuses…but hell…and for the money…this is huge! Tricks my mind…I love this! (93 pts.)

  • 2001 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru (3/29/2012)
    Tasted next to the '86…this needed a longer decant…a little primary still, candied red berry fruit(raspberry, black cherry)…just a gorgeous ultra creamy feel, florals, dried cherry spice. Ripe tannins, but seemed to be holding back all the goods…very tasty, but look for more in 10yrs. (93 pts.)

  • 1986 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru (3/29/2012)
    Tasted with the '01…this had some distinct dusty old cellar, menthol to it that never went away. Again, as with the '01, killer silky feel…very nice tea spice, some hay bale, dried florals…the fruit was not really bright, but more to the earth…and again, the menthol. I just kept thinking mothballs? The feel alone was a treat…but looks like age and vintage got the best of this one. (91 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

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Lewis’ post prompted me to open a Roumier. Third time I’ve had this wine, and it has not disappointed.

  • 2006 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Chambolle-Musigny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny (4/26/2012)
    Corked soaked through, decanted, and initially somewhat volatile. Starts off very slowly, then it seems to peel off layer after layer, revealing a rich yet elegant, red-fruited, mineral-infused wine of considerable weight, yet always remaining somewhat light on its feet. Terrific texture and length. It kept me coming back for more, and it’s a very impressive Chambolle AOC.

Posted from CellarTracker

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Nice pics and notes, Buzz; thanks.

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Last night, Dujac Fils et Père C-M 02.

In contrast to the '08 Domaine and despite 10 yrs, this seemed more 50/50 Dujac/CM. That said, it went down entirely too easily. Succulent, ripe red fruits and definite Chambolle texture. (C-M has always been about a texture to me more than a flavor.) I was pretty whatev on the F&P wines when this came out and now regret not stocking up. Would drink this any time.

A.

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Agreed.

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2008 Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny

This is one refined village wine. Earthy funk, mushroom, bright red fruit and rose petal make up the beautiful nose. On the palate the wine is linear in shape and stretches out with earth and fruit melding together with some buried minerals underneath. The finish sneaks up on you as this is just downright beautiful, complex Chambolle. Drinks way above most village level wines, period.

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Gilmans vintage ratings 2000-2010 lead to a discussion among some fellow winos today. One of the topics was how bad is actually the 2003 vintage. I only have a handful of Burgs this vintage, and thought I’d open one to try. Browsing through CellarTracker I found some interesting notes on the standard Chambolle from Ghislaine Barthod. The last 2 notes on CT of this wine is as follows:

#1: It tastes like Strawberry, and Dust (96p)
#2: Chateauneuf comes to Burgundy. I do like Chateauneuf, but not in the same glass as Burgundy. (NR)

Quite different notes, and I wanted to see for myself how this wine really is (for me, anyway).

The nose is on the dark fruit side of the spectrum, even some anis and spice are noted. The mouth is clearly coated with warm fruit and actually some heat. Quite a lot of power, and not much of elegance, as expected. I did not expect the slight heat, however. I’m very sensitive to heat, so when I say ‘slight’, others may not detect it. I did not have problems with it in this wine. Not very complex, but some balancing acidity makes the wine ‘ok’ to drink now. Will this wine develop any further? Sure. Will it get any better? I actually can’t say. Will wait about 5 years for my last bottle, and see how this wine/vintage develops. 84p, FWIW.

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Oyvind, a nice post. I like the comparison to the CT notes. I must admit, strawberry and dust (96p) sounds good, assuming the dust is powdered limestone minerality, LOL. I could almost use that TN for the wine I had last night, '01 Bertheau…

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I had this wine 2 years ago. It was hauntingly beautiful, the finest Chambolle Les Charmes I have ever had, utterly profound and compelling. And 2 years later it remains in my memory, like a song that you can’t stop humming no matter how hard you try. I’ve actually been nervous that the next bottle could not possibly live up to that hype; I must have over-rated the wine for some reason… we’ve all done that at times.

My TN from May 2010: Domaine Bertheau & Fils 2001 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes. Gorgeous translucent ruby. Cherry fruit is high-toned, sappy, and doused with beautiful minerality. Very elegant wine of exquisite balance. Seductive and subtle, a gossamer texture of limestone-infused lace, a great finish with drive and energy, open for business and pumping out pleasure. When its “on”, Charmes is the very essence of what makes Chambolle unique and beautiful, and this one is “ON”. The finest example of C-M Charmes I have ever seen. Seekers of big bold wines need to look elsewhere. Exceptional.

My TN from tonight: Yes. YES! Exceptional. (Sometimes lightning does strike twice.)

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Had the 02 Roumier Chambolle-Musigny last night. Based on Cellatracker notes I was expecting a wine on the decline. This bottle was anything but that. Dark in color. Vibrant red fruits with aromas of pine resin, forest floor and baking spice. I am inclined to let my last few bottles age for another year or two. Beautiful wine.

Tom
twitter: @NWTomLee

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09 Mugnier Chambolle Musigny - deep garnet colour, black fruited, dark florals, powerful, lots of fruit, some spice and quite robustly structured. Perhaps a bit too ripe with a touch of young wine confection but with time I expect this may well be a positive.

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Inspired by Tom’s comment that CT notes suggest Roumier’s 02 chambolle might be on the decline (a conclusion inconsistent with my own), I checked on my private note from when I drank it - the following are recent chambolle “private notes” on CT from wines from my cellar:

Mugnier Fuees 2002 (4/20/2012): upon decanting, very fragrant and lovely for first hour then closed down - beautiful balance while open.

Mugneret-Gibourg Feusselottes 2004 (12/27/2011): no green, fragrant, good fruit, shut down after awhile - ignore for a couple of years.

Bertheau Amoureuses 2002 (12/18/2011): very nice and pretty but needs more age - still a bit primary.

Bertheau Premier Cru 2006 (11/24/2011): thanksgiving at ellen’s - not bad but too young.

Roumier Chambolle 2002 (6/10/2011): followed 2002 rousseau gc - denser, darker, richer - very nice wine in a very good spot altho opened with aerator.

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It would be a shock to see Roumier’s Chambolle villages in deline before age 10 in a fine vintage like 2002. Last year, the 2001 edition was delicious but on the young side, seeming to have considerable upside potential from a few more years cellaring.

My perspective on villages wines from good producers is that they generally are capable of graceful evolution for almost as long as 1er crus or grands crus, if we allow them to. Personally, I rarely allow them, because they generally have less to gain from the extra maturity (IMO). So I tend to hit 'em on the upswing, around age 10 or 12 years. From 2005, I hope most villages wines will drink well at 10 years, but certainly not sure of that in this particularly long-lived vintage.

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Last night we enjoyed two different interpretations of the same fine 1er cru and same vintage, both with harmony and grace. Althrough the wines were distinctly different, the common voice of their place of origin was definitely there.

Jean-Marie Fourrier 2001 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Gruenchers. Pale translucent amber, but turning more toward red with air. Light and airy nose with sous bois and leather, plus traces of cherry fruit, and pronounced minerality. Fine delicate texture in the mouth, with good intensity and grip. Outstanding. (Given Fourrier’s history of cork problems in 2001, and confirmed by the maturity of this bottle, I plan to finish drinking up this wine within a year or two.)

Domaine Dujac 2001 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Gruenchers. Darker than the Fourrier, also amber, also freshening some with air. Darker fruit on the nose, with spicy stem action added to the Chambolle minerality. Sappy and rich on the palate, intense and balanced. Despite the sap, it is ethereal and weightless and the palate. Outstanding, ready but no hurry.

Jeremy Holmes recently posted that this Dujac, in a decade or so, will “really Mystify.” I think both these wines already do, in the very best Burgundian sense of the word.

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A quite “masculine” Chambolle-

'90 Chambolle “Les Echezeaux” (village level lieu dit), Armelle et Bernard Rion in Vosne

Full bodied, rather dense, needs a LOT of time if trying to slow-O! I pulled the cork at 1:30, enlarged the surface area at 5:00, started working on the bottle at 8:00, and it was only at the end, around 11:00, that the wine started to show nicely. Somewhat rustic before that, but with good fruit and balance - could use more cellar time!